Hello i was taking apart a tandberg tl 1500 anyway there was something on the back of the drivers that worked as a glue and a cushion between the speaker driver and box. Anyway since it was deterioating i removed it but what soft non vibrant thing can i use as a replacement?
Attachments
You can use them anywhere you want, you just have to cut them to give them the correct shape, forming a joint to seal and prevent air leaks.
Somewhat thicker is the material used as "under the carpet" but it adapts better to the irregularities of the surface.
Look at post 163
DTQWTII from Argentina
Somewhat thicker is the material used as "under the carpet" but it adapts better to the irregularities of the surface.
Look at post 163
DTQWTII from Argentina
Thanks but
Is it really sticky i want IT to stick a little bit but not as much as the black goo seas used where you had to be real careful when you removed the drivers.
Is it really sticky i want IT to stick a little bit but not as much as the black goo seas used where you had to be real careful when you removed the drivers.
You know the speaker i am fixing actually uses a seas 21 f gw
I've used fibreglass vacuum tape before:
Vacuum Bag Sealant • WEST SYSTEM Epoxy • Tacky Tape • Mastic
Vacuum Bag Sealant • WEST SYSTEM Epoxy • Tacky Tape • Mastic
even some expensive loudspeaker do not use any gasket between driver and cab, i guess they think leakage is nonsense or they just want to cut costs!?
Blu tack is sticky and not sticky at the same time 🙂Is it really sticky i want IT to stick a little bit but not as much as the black goo seas used where you had to be real careful when you removed the drivers.
even some expensive loudspeaker do not use any gasket between driver and cab, i guess they think leakage is nonsense or they just want to cut costs!?
Wierd because almost every hifi vintage speaker i own use something whether its seas black goo or tandbergs foam.
I stopped using gasket material between driver frames and cabinet. If the driver has a gasket attached, I leave it. It does no harm, but it serves no real purpose.
If I had an irregular baffle surface to mount the driver, I might use a gasket. but if the baffle is flat and smooth, I just screw it down tight.
If I had an irregular baffle surface to mount the driver, I might use a gasket. but if the baffle is flat and smooth, I just screw it down tight.
>even some expensive loudspeaker do not use any gasket between driver and cab...
I once met a fellow who suggested removing such gaskets for better sound. He called it "free and easy upgrade for almost any speaker system".
Personally, I dont put a lot of stock in the idea. Who knows what others can / cant hear.
I once met a fellow who suggested removing such gaskets for better sound. He called it "free and easy upgrade for almost any speaker system".
Personally, I dont put a lot of stock in the idea. Who knows what others can / cant hear.
Closed cel foam gasket tape used for weatherstipping (draft exclusion tape). Availabale at any building supply store.
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/m-...replacement-weather-stripping-grey/1001120748
The white stuff is the peel off strip on the sticky side.
dave

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/m-...replacement-weather-stripping-grey/1001120748
The white stuff is the peel off strip on the sticky side.
dave
Blacl foam+circle cutting compass
Hi.
I built a SEAS Loki kit and the driver recesses in the kit enclosures are deeper than the woofer flanges. I got some 2 mm thich black foam,
12" x 18" Foam Sheet by Creatology™ | Michaels
and an Olfa cutting compass,
OLFA(R) Rotary Circle Cutter
I then punched holes for screws with a regular hole punch. Works very well, is removable and lasts forever (so to speak). I have used the same material in the past in other builds. However, for cast aluminum basket woofers on a smooth mounting surface, having no gasket at all has worked well too in some speakers I made, as mentionned in another post above. Cheers!
--Christian
Hi.
I built a SEAS Loki kit and the driver recesses in the kit enclosures are deeper than the woofer flanges. I got some 2 mm thich black foam,
12" x 18" Foam Sheet by Creatology™ | Michaels
and an Olfa cutting compass,
OLFA(R) Rotary Circle Cutter
I then punched holes for screws with a regular hole punch. Works very well, is removable and lasts forever (so to speak). I have used the same material in the past in other builds. However, for cast aluminum basket woofers on a smooth mounting surface, having no gasket at all has worked well too in some speakers I made, as mentionned in another post above. Cheers!
--Christian
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
I use black gutter sealant that you can find in diy stores. Never goes really hard and I have even stuck tweeters in with it and no screws.
My experience is that anything gooey like blue-etc, ductal, or the gutter stuff mentioned in the previosu post are to be avoided for this purpose.
It will work, but is messy and hard to deal with if you have to remove driver.
dave
It will work, but is messy and hard to deal with if you have to remove driver.
dave
Matt, it does not work near as well, or as easy to use and reuse as proper foam gasket tape.
dave
dave
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- Speaker mounting what to use between speaker driver and box.