Gregm said:
Um, not to minimize your pain (because I felt it too when I managed to disintegrate the dicey surround on an old Advent by testing its excursion [later fixed, thanks Parts Express!]), but why didn't you lay the cabinet on its back? That's been Standard Operating Procedure at Casa Francois for eons. Then again, I first started working with speakers at a pro audio shop - pro 15" woofers and 2" horn drivers are bloody HEAVY.
In all sincerity, thanks for sharing - I'm not sure I'd have the guts after something like that.
Francois.
adason said:
I don't think he mentioned which lowther -- or which phase plug...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
dave
kneadle said:
The felt is show here taped to the front of my BD-Pipes -- its original use was as a diffraction catcher/ surround resonance trap.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Now i'm adding enuff stiffening to the back of the felt so that i can stretch some double-knit over the piece of felt... i don't know how it will work out (3 coats of PVA on the back isn't enuff yet)
dave
That's correct, I didn't. I did mention the model though: a PM5.
Basically this mishap could have been easily avoided just by removing the phase plug & laying the baffle face down on the floor. I wanted to "protect" the suspension from the weight of the driver & the baffle...
Generally speaking there must be thousands of ways to avoid catastrophe... I just picked the best way to make it happen
I too am coming into the part of my speaker project where I need to build grill covers (for my wife & 18mo son). If it were left to me, I would leave them sitting naked so I could lovingly gaze upon my ScanSpeak R2904/7000, ATC SM75-150S and dual AudioTechnology 6" woofers. Oh how I love the sound. I have been tossing around the idea of using a non-magnetic metal (likely brass or stainless steel) or baltic birch plywood for the frames with some absorbant felt or Black Hole (from Orca Design) type absorbant pad on the inner parts of the frame. Let's face it, for most of us grill covers are a necessity for various reasons so it's not a matter of whether to grill or not to grill but how to do it best with the least amount of sound degradation possible. What do you guys think? Is my frame idea a good one? What are your 'best' methods? Thanks, in advance.
Is fiberglass insect screen mesh transparent enough? Router a groove along the back frame edge and use the rubber gasket and screen roller to tension and hold in the screen. (I haven't tried this, but I can imagine the corners being a problem.) The frame could friction fit (using some foam weather stripping) over the outside vertical edges of the front baffle.
The biggest problem, I believe, with grills are the frames more than the material. There is a large variety of "acoustically transparent" material. I've often thought the method of running fine "string" down the front without a full frame was a good solution. Whether this provides the protection you're looking for, I don't know. I can't recall the manufacturer that uses this method at the moment.
Sonus Faber has elastic strings strung vertically in front of some of their models. I happened upon them during a field trip to Magnolia the other day. Salesman blathered something about designer being inspired by string instruments. Well, I don't see the point as they offer no finger-poking protection whatsoever and hardly any visual obstruction. That qualifies as a gimmick to me.
But tighter and closer strung strings seems more useful, but still not determined toddler-proof. Pantyhose would be better.
PS. Toddlers (and teenage boys) instinctively want to touch nipples.
But tighter and closer strung strings seems more useful, but still not determined toddler-proof. Pantyhose would be better.
PS. Toddlers (and teenage boys) instinctively want to touch nipples.
True, true.
Like I said, the frame is the real problem. Anything that can be done to minimize the high frequency diffraction caused by it is a plus. Rounding the edges, a "soft" frame (not sure what that might be) or getting the frame on the same plane as the front baffle. That would be a neat trick if it looked good at the same time!
Like I said, the frame is the real problem. Anything that can be done to minimize the high frequency diffraction caused by it is a plus. Rounding the edges, a "soft" frame (not sure what that might be) or getting the frame on the same plane as the front baffle. That would be a neat trick if it looked good at the same time!
All this talking about frames has made me think that what I need most from a grill is absorption of early reflections. So maybe something like a foam lens hood with adjustable wings. Or a thick piece of foam of variable density.
I feel sorry for people who need to provide finger protection. And I think by painting the baffle flat black, the speakers blend with the background better. I don't want speakers too loud or busy, visually. I don't see the point of the Revel Salon grills, either, as proper grills have to hold out a purposeful person.
I feel sorry for people who need to provide finger protection. And I think by painting the baffle flat black, the speakers blend with the background better. I don't want speakers too loud or busy, visually. I don't see the point of the Revel Salon grills, either, as proper grills have to hold out a purposeful person.
Timn8ter said:
The experiment to turn these felt absorbers into grill carriers stalled when the speakers were set aside for better ones... the many coats of PVA on the back wasn't enuff to stiffen them sufficently -- i shall return to them as i feel it is worthwhile figuring out how to make it work (the felt packing taped to the box front was an improvement)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
dave
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