Dear Forum
I am just wondering if you could help me with some ideas like a theoretical discussion.
If I was lucky, to get my dream woofer
https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/speaker-fostex-w400a-hr-8-ohm-15-55-inch.html
What would you build from it? Which other components would you match it with?
Which speakers would be in this league?
I am just wondering if you could help me with some ideas like a theoretical discussion.
If I was lucky, to get my dream woofer
Fostex W400A-HR
https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/speaker-fostex-w400a-hr-8-ohm-15-55-inch.html
What would you build from it? Which other components would you match it with?
Which speakers would be in this league?
They had their own design using the 12-inch version, though not a lot of detail on this page. The RS series is listed as discontinued on the English version of their page, and I didn't see any links to it there.
RS-N2 Reference Monitor Speaker System
https://www.fostex.jp/products/rs-n2/
RS-N2 Reference Monitor Speaker System
https://www.fostex.jp/products/rs-n2/
Well, if nothing else it looks really cool.
I'd cross it at 4-600Hz to a decent compression driver. Maybe one of the coaxial ones.
Chris
I'd cross it at 4-600Hz to a decent compression driver. Maybe one of the coaxial ones.
Chris
I like the idea of a 2-way with this woofer. And it's indeed way to futuristic and stylish to hide it! From the frequency response (if you can trust it) it looks like it's easy to handle as a woofer. A nice big horn would be a great fit. Another idea was to pair it up with a fullrange with an equally exotic look, the FE168EZ. I have to admit, I don't know how this FR sounds but it seems it can even keep up with the woofer in regards of spl since the baffle step will shave off a few dB from the woofer.
The Fostex FW168HR would fit even better in design but that would require an active or at least bi-amp setup.
The Fostex FW168HR would fit even better in design but that would require an active or at least bi-amp setup.
I'm far less ambitious (read: more frugal) and my go-to for piano @gilbodavid is the quite-normal-looking W300Aii straight-through paired with a vintage bigbutt alnico tweeter. I'm undecided how to deepen the bass of my LX Eazies 108eΣ/168eΣ (alnico copy), through subwoofer or cab (TLonken or MLhorn).
Thanks for the answers. It will be my dream woofer as it has one of the best resolutions and details among the woofers I have heard. Superb details. Also, smooth warm tone. I was thinking of crossing it around 1000Hz. I am thinking of matching it with a TAD Horn 2001TD on Joseph Crowe 600 ES horn.
I was thinking of having the woofer on a bass reflex house.
Any view on this plan? Any better idea? I heard the FW168HR and to me, it was a bit blunt. The TAD and other compression drivers were very interesting.
I didn't hear the Accuton tweeters/mid-high drivers.
Thanks for the suggestions. It just reinforces what I was thinking myself.
David
I was thinking of having the woofer on a bass reflex house.
Any view on this plan? Any better idea? I heard the FW168HR and to me, it was a bit blunt. The TAD and other compression drivers were very interesting.
I didn't hear the Accuton tweeters/mid-high drivers.
Thanks for the suggestions. It just reinforces what I was thinking myself.
David
Have you considered using an optimized ATH horn? In the long running thread from @mabat some great designs have emerged that could be a perfect fit for this driver.
I'd consider using this one: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/ath-a520g2 or one of the other gen2 designs.
Most certainly peaked my interest after seeing measurements with several compression drivers: https://www.at-horns.eu/gen2m.html
Just a suggestion.
I'd consider using this one: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/ath-a520g2 or one of the other gen2 designs.
Most certainly peaked my interest after seeing measurements with several compression drivers: https://www.at-horns.eu/gen2m.html
Just a suggestion.
There are vintage alnico mid-tweeters that can cover 1-15khz at least, and sound truly incredible (but very directional). Usually very large alnico magnet and never cheap.
What would you build from it?
I would sell it and use the money to buy parts for several speakers. If selling it was not an option I would likely leave it on the shelf because the driver parameters are not going to fit anything I am likely to want to build.
Which other components would you match it with?
That would depend on the objectives for the speaker. The driver is clearly not intended for high fidelity designs but may be suitable for audiophile designs if others apart from yourself consider it to be a dream driver. It appears to be a midwoofer despite claims to be other things which suggests a 2 way with a tweeter with a similar matching strong audiophile appeal and very high price. A passive crossover using audiophile components would seem a more natural fit than an active crossover. Big shiny cabinet but again without an objective for the speaker it isn't possible to suggest much.
Which speakers would be in this league?
Ultra-fi speakers of the kind shown at Munich and similar audiophile shows.
This woofer has very low Xmax and extremely high Le. No thanks.
Not sure if I would like to sell these. I heard them and they are really amazing. I had them on a mock 90l cabinet I had around.
Hornresp and others simulate 160-200L box with tuning to 27Hz and giving flat response to 26-1300Hz.
I am not sure what would I buy instead!
I got them from Japan and they are in great condition. And to me the bass details- the deep orchestral foundation details are great.
Thanks for the waveguide posts. Very good read will keep me busy for a couple of nights.
I love TAD drives. I think it’s will be a fair match.
I do not necessarily have the funds if the universe but this drivers - I been saving for them over a couple of years. I am sure you can always find a better one a cheaper one or a better price quality ratio one. I think for me the fostex hits the spot - so I think it’s a keeper.
If anyone has a better suggestion for the box- please do so. I tried simulating tml and horn doesn’t seem to work well either.
Thanks for the ideas and suggestions keep them coming
Hornresp and others simulate 160-200L box with tuning to 27Hz and giving flat response to 26-1300Hz.
I am not sure what would I buy instead!
I got them from Japan and they are in great condition. And to me the bass details- the deep orchestral foundation details are great.
Thanks for the waveguide posts. Very good read will keep me busy for a couple of nights.
I love TAD drives. I think it’s will be a fair match.
I do not necessarily have the funds if the universe but this drivers - I been saving for them over a couple of years. I am sure you can always find a better one a cheaper one or a better price quality ratio one. I think for me the fostex hits the spot - so I think it’s a keeper.
If anyone has a better suggestion for the box- please do so. I tried simulating tml and horn doesn’t seem to work well either.
Thanks for the ideas and suggestions keep them coming
Not sure if I would like to sell these. I am not sure what would I buy instead!
Guess it might depend on the proportion of the €9k or so list price one might get for a pair? A good price though is likely to depend on other audiophiles rating them as their dream speaker drivers. Would they?
I do not necessarily have the funds if the universe but this drivers - I been saving for them over a couple of years. I am sure you can always find a better one a cheaper one or a better price quality ratio one. I think for me the fostex hits the spot - so I think it’s a keeper.
It's a hobby and hard to fault building what you want to build. Personally I rather like the sound from my youth of old 2 ways with large resonant midwoofers and a large tweeter.
I got those Fostex drivers for 2k usd with shipping and taxes. So I think it’s reasonable as one of them used to cost 4-5.
I know producers do overprice things. I was curious and did buy them with the intention to re sell if not liked. I think was a safe choice. I understand it may not be widely known -fault the price- I guess.
Had very good ideas here so thanks a lot.
I won’t change the bass driver. I try to make a box in the summer to match it.
The compression driver is not selected yet.
Compression driver or any tweeters out there that go 1000hz onward ?
I think TAD is good start
I know producers do overprice things. I was curious and did buy them with the intention to re sell if not liked. I think was a safe choice. I understand it may not be widely known -fault the price- I guess.
Had very good ideas here so thanks a lot.
I won’t change the bass driver. I try to make a box in the summer to match it.
The compression driver is not selected yet.
Compression driver or any tweeters out there that go 1000hz onward ?
I think TAD is good start
Tad is very overpriced also, but good sounding. I would rather get a coaxial compression driver and cross way lower with this woofer as I think this best should be crossed in the 600 to 800hz region. A TAD-2001 can do that, but so can an RCF ND-350 (that sounds almost identical) that is a lot cheaper or some others.
But if you insist on Tad, Joseph Crowe makes some very good biradial horns for it from wood. They are pricey, but it seems that you want to spend some, and at least they do work as intended, the pricey factor is the fancy woodwork, not hype. https://croweaudio.blogspot.com/2020/04/es-600-biradial-with-tad-td-2001.html
But if you insist on Tad, Joseph Crowe makes some very good biradial horns for it from wood. They are pricey, but it seems that you want to spend some, and at least they do work as intended, the pricey factor is the fancy woodwork, not hype. https://croweaudio.blogspot.com/2020/04/es-600-biradial-with-tad-td-2001.html
T S parameters are correct. I took them to a local guy and he measured them. The only difference is the Re is 5,6 ohms. Which is ok, but will be handy for the crossover design. Thanks for WAXX confirming my idea. I found a good European distributor/creator who doesn't CNC with Crowe's license so it's identical and cuts the expenses a lot actually.
https://www.athosaudio.com/
I think I will go with them. Costs the same as getting a second-hand TAD horn or the alternative:
https://userweb.117.ne.jp/y-s/SS500.SS300katarog-e.html
I haven't heard any of them though. Yamato looks great too.
I am getting good simulations with a 185-200L box tuned to 27-30Hz. I do a mock cabinet to see if the volume and tuning work as expected. I need to find a doppelganger who goes to work and earns money so I can get to the garage...
I want to spend money on it to the point I can still confess it to my wife. I was already close to sleeping next to the dog...
https://www.athosaudio.com/
I think I will go with them. Costs the same as getting a second-hand TAD horn or the alternative:
https://userweb.117.ne.jp/y-s/SS500.SS300katarog-e.html
I haven't heard any of them though. Yamato looks great too.
I am getting good simulations with a 185-200L box tuned to 27-30Hz. I do a mock cabinet to see if the volume and tuning work as expected. I need to find a doppelganger who goes to work and earns money so I can get to the garage...
I want to spend money on it to the point I can still confess it to my wife. I was already close to sleeping next to the dog...
That's pretty much a non-starter if you are talking about normal direct radiating domes or ring radiators and only using one of them. Lots of people would like to have a dome tweeter that can run that low, but it's just not feasible if much output is desired. A diaphragm small enough to have decent dispersion up high doesn't have the volume displacement to run at high-ish SPL at 1 kHz. Most dome tweeters also have rising distortion below 2-ish kHz even if they have very low resonance. There are 2-4 inch "full range"/wide range drivers and old school large cone tweeters that do better in applications like this, but they have their own issues.any tweeters out there that go 1000hz onward
There's also the Tekton approach that uses multiple tweeters to cover down that low.
Sure. I think compression drivers are my preferred (possibly only) reasonable options. Never done the Tekton approach -I will do some reading on it. Interesting
I have a BD3 AER on an Oris horn at the moment with and OB bass support. I am very happy with it. I think the one I will get with this will beat it. The bass details are very different. I like the bass reflex - horn hybrid concept.
Not sure if I would try to integrate the bass with the AER. Not sure why it doesn’t feel a natural idea. I might be wrong.
Not sure if I would try to integrate the bass with the AER. Not sure why it doesn’t feel a natural idea. I might be wrong.
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