Hi
Rookie question.
I'd like to use an existing speaker cabinet to test various drivers. The existing crossover has solid wire going to the speaker terminals and terminates by soldering.
I'd like to use crimped speaker terminal connectors for speed so I don't have to desolder and solder each terminal. Main reason being the height of the driver location makes soldering challenging.
There are these quick attach terminals or the basic crimp terminals.
https://a.co/d/3PyxaUd
https://a.co/d/etbHaod
However it is my understanding that crimping solid wire is not advisable.
Rookie question.
I'd like to use an existing speaker cabinet to test various drivers. The existing crossover has solid wire going to the speaker terminals and terminates by soldering.
I'd like to use crimped speaker terminal connectors for speed so I don't have to desolder and solder each terminal. Main reason being the height of the driver location makes soldering challenging.
There are these quick attach terminals or the basic crimp terminals.
https://a.co/d/3PyxaUd
https://a.co/d/etbHaod
However it is my understanding that crimping solid wire is not advisable.
A way around that problem is to crimp the best that you can and then solder terminal/wire connection. You will be fine.
Thank you for your reply.
Just to clarify, add a speaker terminal to the existing solid wire, crimp and then solder? Then use that terminal to connect to the speaker driver?
If/when I want a more permanent connection, just cut off the speaker terminal and solder directly to the speaker driver?
Just to clarify, add a speaker terminal to the existing solid wire, crimp and then solder? Then use that terminal to connect to the speaker driver?
If/when I want a more permanent connection, just cut off the speaker terminal and solder directly to the speaker driver?
Crimping can work harden the solid wire and make it prone to cracking. Why don't you just change to stranded wire and make it easier all around. Be careful soldering to the driver, put a heatsink on the tinsel spade termination from the voice coil. If you can post a picture, kind of hard making recommendation's in the "blind".
Rob 🙂
Rob 🙂
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I'd have to dig deep into the speaker and dig out the crossover and desolder the solid wire and resolder the stranded wire. X 3 crossovers.
Pita
Pita
Falling back again on my time concerning UL/CSA testing, crimping of course is a cold weld when the proper lug, die, etc. is used, but can also be a terminal strip termination and best audio wire is single strand armature winding wire sized for whatever acceptable voltage drop over 'x' distance, so in a line array the wire size might can be reduced with each advancing connection or at least between single and differing multiple driver segments.
Re crimp + soldering; in short ckt. testing, soldering can seriously degrade a proper crimp.
So if there is 14 or 16 gauge solid core wire from the crossover, do you think there is an audible difference between changing the wire to stranded and crimping vs. using existing solid core wire and soldering?
I've no clue other than we have to know the various short ckt. test results of each type to know 'apples to apples' and historically 'we' queried the manufacturers to minimize testing as much as practical, so in my locale I always contacted Southwire.
That said, from very dim memory (30+ yrs) seems like there was a derating factor for solid Vs stranded, i.e. stranded had to be larger for close matching since there were greater losses in the crimp.
That said, from very dim memory (30+ yrs) seems like there was a derating factor for solid Vs stranded, i.e. stranded had to be larger for close matching since there were greater losses in the crimp.
Use standard crimped terminals, very common in cars, there are not many sizes, for car speakers, they come with a small insulating transparent sleeve. Usually large and small, so polarity is maintained.
I use small insulated alligator clips, with flexible wire, or wire terminal blocks, or even solder, for driver testing...depends how long the test will last.
I use small insulated alligator clips, with flexible wire, or wire terminal blocks, or even solder, for driver testing...depends how long the test will last.