Actually, if you find the speakers are now alive and singing, again I would be inclined to just leave them as is. Unless you are a tinkerer by nature.
But with eq at work now you are probably already getting the increase in SPL at frequencies below about 50Hz that the bigger box and longer port would provide. I'm guessing that anyways. If it's so, I don't see much reason to change them in your situation unless maybe you want the speakers to be played without eq at some time in the future.
But with eq at work now you are probably already getting the increase in SPL at frequencies below about 50Hz that the bigger box and longer port would provide. I'm guessing that anyways. If it's so, I don't see much reason to change them in your situation unless maybe you want the speakers to be played without eq at some time in the future.
Thanks again jReave.
Thanks to your generous help,🙂 the speakers have gotten a whole lot better but I'm wondering whether a larger 16L box and longer port would help with the boominess that I sometimes encounter.
Thanks to your generous help,🙂 the speakers have gotten a whole lot better but I'm wondering whether a larger 16L box and longer port would help with the boominess that I sometimes encounter.
Hi! Yes. This build started as a sealed box.But I wanted to try a vented box as a next step in my speaker build.The sealed box did ok.The bass was tight but lacking in depth and the woofer looked like it needed more room to breathe. That's why I tried installing a port.Thanks!
Larger box should help, but be sure to brace it well to prevent panels resonating, and calculate the volume loss of the bracing material. You should be able to plug the Thiele Small parameters into a program to help determine optimum box size and port tuning. You could also try stuffing the heck out of it with foam, wool, poly fiber, anything absorbant. Keep it away from the port and and away from the back of the woofer.
The fact that it's only sometimes suggest the problem may be with different recordings and not the speakers in which case eq is again your friend for different tracks.
But yes, a lower tuning - with a longer port and larger box - may get rid of too much bass in 1 frequency range. Moving the speakers away from the walls may do the same thing. Heavy stuffing as knotscott mentions will also reduce the port output.
Only 1 way to find out really if you are going to like 1 way or the other better and that's to try them.
Thanks again,jReave!
Yes! The quality of the various recordings are indeed suspect. As I was listening to Youtube music streamed from my tablet to the amp via my tv.But ocassionally I get high quaility recordings which sounded good. The speakers are placed abt 2 1/2 feet away from the back wall.I'll try stuffing next to see if that helps with the boominess.
Thank you so much for helping me in making this build a very rewarding pursuit. Much obliged. 🙂
Yes! The quality of the various recordings are indeed suspect. As I was listening to Youtube music streamed from my tablet to the amp via my tv.But ocassionally I get high quaility recordings which sounded good. The speakers are placed abt 2 1/2 feet away from the back wall.I'll try stuffing next to see if that helps with the boominess.
Thank you so much for helping me in making this build a very rewarding pursuit. Much obliged. 🙂
Greets!
A bit late to the 'party', but WRT vented box size, there is a technically correct one based solely on [measured] Vas/1.44 tuned to Fs for best overall transient response [least 'hangover'/'boom'] @ max LF extension short of extra damping that reduces max LF gain bandwidth [BW].
Note too that there's going to be some added series resistance [Rs] that raises Qts [Qts'] if using T/S specs to calculate a box alignment, typically ~0.5 ohms for wiring, so normally not a big deal with larger boxes, but can make an audible one when trying to make the smallest box practical and/or using tube amps: Qts' = Qts + any added series resistance [Rs]: HiFi Loudspeaker Design
Also, Hornresp 'says' your vent needs to be nearly 3" in diameter [Sd/3], hence much longer to keep vent mach reasonable when driven much past Xmax, which you're apparently doing.
A global quick 'fix' is to 'critically' damp the vent ['click' test], which of course rolls off its response, but often this is a good thing to better blend with the room, i.e. a nice compromise between sealed Vs vented: Click Test | GM210 | Flickr
GM
A bit late to the 'party', but WRT vented box size, there is a technically correct one based solely on [measured] Vas/1.44 tuned to Fs for best overall transient response [least 'hangover'/'boom'] @ max LF extension short of extra damping that reduces max LF gain bandwidth [BW].
Note too that there's going to be some added series resistance [Rs] that raises Qts [Qts'] if using T/S specs to calculate a box alignment, typically ~0.5 ohms for wiring, so normally not a big deal with larger boxes, but can make an audible one when trying to make the smallest box practical and/or using tube amps: Qts' = Qts + any added series resistance [Rs]: HiFi Loudspeaker Design
Also, Hornresp 'says' your vent needs to be nearly 3" in diameter [Sd/3], hence much longer to keep vent mach reasonable when driven much past Xmax, which you're apparently doing.
A global quick 'fix' is to 'critically' damp the vent ['click' test], which of course rolls off its response, but often this is a good thing to better blend with the room, i.e. a nice compromise between sealed Vs vented: Click Test | GM210 | Flickr
GM