Hello,
I would like to better understand how one screws a speaker to an enclosure, especially how to set the gasketing tape and how much pressure one has to apply on the screws.
So, any link to a picture or a good tutorial on that specific topic would be really helpful.
If those pictures or tutorial involved the Peerless TC9DF18, it would be even better! I see no gap to to host the screw heads. Should I apply pressure on the soft material surrounding the holes? Should I let the screws heads override the surface? The idea is to screw it from the outside of the enclosure, so to have the smallest possible gap between the speaker's edge surface and the enclosure's surface.
Thank you for helping.
I would like to better understand how one screws a speaker to an enclosure, especially how to set the gasketing tape and how much pressure one has to apply on the screws.
So, any link to a picture or a good tutorial on that specific topic would be really helpful.
If those pictures or tutorial involved the Peerless TC9DF18, it would be even better! I see no gap to to host the screw heads. Should I apply pressure on the soft material surrounding the holes? Should I let the screws heads override the surface? The idea is to screw it from the outside of the enclosure, so to have the smallest possible gap between the speaker's edge surface and the enclosure's surface.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thank you for helping.
That sort of flange on that woofer is designed to be mounted from the inside of the cabinet (inside of the baffle). However there is nothing wrong with mounting it externally, and you can find examples in both commercial speakers and custom builds that mount that kind of flange externally.
Is the soft gasket removable? if so, you transfer it to the opposite side of the flange so that the gasket is between the driver and the baffle.
If it is not removable, just tighten your screws down and compress the gasket.
I recommend pan head screws or washer-head screws. This style works great
8 x 3/4 in. McFeely's Promaster-Plus Wood Screws, Statuary Bronze, Round Washer Head, Combo Drive - Qty:10000
Is the soft gasket removable? if so, you transfer it to the opposite side of the flange so that the gasket is between the driver and the baffle.
If it is not removable, just tighten your screws down and compress the gasket.
I recommend pan head screws or washer-head screws. This style works great
8 x 3/4 in. McFeely's Promaster-Plus Wood Screws, Statuary Bronze, Round Washer Head, Combo Drive - Qty:10000
Typically you see the baffle routed out to accept the basket edge, and a thin bezel at the front to hide the basket and provide seating for the mounting bolts/screws. You can seal the bezel with another gasket.
Mounting on the inside with a thick baffe, I'd suggest routing quite deep to bring the driver more flush to the front, or shaping the hole, chamfered or rounded, to reduce diffraction on the edge. Rear mounting allows a protective grill on the front to be clear of the cone surround.
If you use a metal plate at the front of the baffle you can rear mount the driver to this and bolt the plate to the baffle with its own gasket, basically a flat bezel. But that involves some metal cutting, although you can style the design how you want - its one way to replace a driver with a smaller one where original size not available.
Mounting on the inside with a thick baffe, I'd suggest routing quite deep to bring the driver more flush to the front, or shaping the hole, chamfered or rounded, to reduce diffraction on the edge. Rear mounting allows a protective grill on the front to be clear of the cone surround.
If you use a metal plate at the front of the baffle you can rear mount the driver to this and bolt the plate to the baffle with its own gasket, basically a flat bezel. But that involves some metal cutting, although you can style the design how you want - its one way to replace a driver with a smaller one where original size not available.
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I see those screws look like a self tapping type, do you pre-drill a small hole to prevent splitting the ply close to the rim? A tight fit is probably the best, so I can see the attraction. For my build I decided to use M6 x 30mm Hex/Allen Key Speaker Bolt with Tee nut. Then I got to thinking that the holes I had drilled for the screws create an empty space (void) around the screws. We take the trouble to use good quality ply (void free) so I hope the way that I have gone about it works out. Not finished yet so we'll see.
I always pre-drill for any application in hardwoods or plywood. Only softwood (i.e. pine, fir, cedar) do I just push the screw into the wood.
I also use a lubricant on my screws. I am very picky about deforming the screw head, so I want the screw to go in with the minimum torque necessary. Wax is a good screw lubricant. S.C Johnsons paste wax is the best, but paraffin wax or old candle wax works ok. Specialized screw lubricants are available, but I have never tried them.
I use a screw gun to drive the screws down to the final 1/4 inch, then I slowly drive them by hand.
In the past I have also used T-nuts and machine screws (bolts). But my experience in boat building has convinced me of that, with plywood, a well installed screw is hard to beat. The T-nut and machine screw approach is better if the fastener is going to be removed-reinstalled more than 6 or 8 times in the life of the cabinet.
I also use a lubricant on my screws. I am very picky about deforming the screw head, so I want the screw to go in with the minimum torque necessary. Wax is a good screw lubricant. S.C Johnsons paste wax is the best, but paraffin wax or old candle wax works ok. Specialized screw lubricants are available, but I have never tried them.
I use a screw gun to drive the screws down to the final 1/4 inch, then I slowly drive them by hand.
In the past I have also used T-nuts and machine screws (bolts). But my experience in boat building has convinced me of that, with plywood, a well installed screw is hard to beat. The T-nut and machine screw approach is better if the fastener is going to be removed-reinstalled more than 6 or 8 times in the life of the cabinet.