Taking inspiration from Bill Fitzmaurice and the V-Plate, I wondered how far can you take this concept in the battle against Hoffman Iron law. Good horn subwoofers require a big mouth and you can't cheat by just rapid flaring in the last few inches of cab. I'd expect this design to have poor low frequency loading as a standalone, but pair two cabs with piano hinge and a top plate and you have yourself a big horn subwoofer that packs down in the van.
Anyone else experimented with designs that use the outside of the cab as the final flare of the horn?
Anyone else experimented with designs that use the outside of the cab as the final flare of the horn?
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I also have thought of this. Apparently most agree it works but no one seems interested enough to build some. I learned how to sim and got some pretty good results. Horn Extender/Wave-guide for TH
I also have thought of this. Apparently most agree it works but no one seems interested enough to build some. I learned how to sim and got some pretty good results. Horn Extender/Wave-guide for TH
The idea has been tried...
J Bell designed a "bass stick" that was designed to be used in a "V" configuration and top-plated.
See here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/144589-dual-mcm-flh-5.html#post2528428
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/144589-dual-mcm-flh-3.html#post1940965
I built 4 of them, and used them side-by-side without v-plating. The floor and their fronts made two sides of an extended horn. Worked very well.
Joe L. said:Actually, they do not do too badly as shown in my picture. The floor forms one side of the final horn, and the standing cabinets the other side at 90 degrees. The four cabinets side-by-side result in a horn width of 72 inches by 44 inches high.
Joe L.
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This picture from earlier in the J Bell thread had an outline with a hand-written parts list with dimensions.THANKS! Will check this info out. Nice setup! A little confused on the build but will proibably click once I study it a bit. Very anxious to sim some modern high power drivers in it and see if I can get it lower.
I'll try and find some construction photos from when I built my versions later tonight when I get home to make it more clear. The most complicated is how the compression chamber feeds into the balance of the horn.
Joe L.
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Taking inspiration from Bill Fitzmaurice and the V-Plate, I wondered how far can you take this concept in the battle against Hoffman Iron law.
I think you've got a pretty neat idea there. I'd want to make sure the hinge was air tight in some way - perhaps a rubber gasket along each cabinet edge, and use ratchet straps to pull everything tight.
Chris
I was thinking the floor would be the bottom. For a flown array of them you'd need a bottom plate although with a long enough line of them you might be able to form a "phantom horn" without any of the plates.
In a fold out arrangement you could use a flexi rubber piece that is glued/stapled to the bottom of each horn mouth. It would be useful to make the entire thing fold in on itself to create a mini fridge/freezer sized box of two units clipped together.
Some triangular shaped mid/high cabs could go in the empty space created by the recessed end of the bass horns.
In a fold out arrangement you could use a flexi rubber piece that is glued/stapled to the bottom of each horn mouth. It would be useful to make the entire thing fold in on itself to create a mini fridge/freezer sized box of two units clipped together.
Some triangular shaped mid/high cabs could go in the empty space created by the recessed end of the bass horns.
Exactly as I used them post #4 in this thread. The floor was the bottom plate, the fronts of the 4 subs the top plate.I was thinking the floor would be the bottom.
I used them without side plates. ( I was supplying ballroom dance music in a conference center ballroom. I did not need the sub 50 Hz response or high SPL you might need for a younger crowd. )
I did nothing to seal between the subs/floor or each other.
Howsabows using the floor as one side of the final line that ends up being the mouth? Would need to rest on seals and maybe need braises to prevent flaring?
Cheers!
Seems I didnt read comments well before writing. That bass stick principle looks like just what i`ve been looking for for my portable speaker/toolbox idea.
Cheers!
Is the JBell prototype in 3/4 ply double 55-2421 doable, what I mean for small compact DJ work weddings and medium scale indoor parties good if I build 2 cabs? (100-400) We were running a 450 capacity a month ago playing all kinds of music from ballroom to current dance with 4 cheap powered china Habinger 15"x1" not enough bass even side by side on stage. Blew 1 tweeter and shut down 1 top, embarrassing but party went on for another 2 hours with 3 speakers. I can build 2 subs I don't know if diyaudio has a top to match, was thinking 2 x 10" neo mid woofer with a 1" horn on top I already have a 1" B&C alum ME45.Was thinking Faital HF108s and 2 x 10" Faital neo's. Any suggestion on tops? 200-400 peeps there might be 150 max at one time on the dance floor. The 55-2421 are so cheap won't break the bank and HD 3/4" Arauco is at $35 a sheet. Passive highs and bi amped subs to 10" Faitals. Thanks
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Pretty sure JBell used 12mm (7/16 inch) plywood for his double 55-2421 box.Is the JBell prototype in 3/4 ply double 55-2421 doable,
He used a pair of the double 55-2421 outdoors. He was happy with their performance. He said "flat to 40 is nice... very nice."what I mean for small compact DJ work weddings and medium scale indoor parties good if I build 2 cabs? (100-400) We were running a 450 capacity a month ago playing all kinds of music from ballroom to current dance with 4 cheap powered china Habinger 15"x1" not enough bass even side by side on stage.
(I did not build that version, I built 4 of the bass-stick version, using the 7/16 inch ply.) I'm pretty sure a pair would be great indoors.
In fact, JBell said he only needed one in a indoor venue he was installing his in, instead of the two he had built.
See here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/144589-dual-mcm-flh.html#post1903964
Be aware though that double 55-2421 style of sub is not the type this current thread is about, so questions about the double-woofer version should be continued in JBell's original thread, not here.
This thread is describing the space-saver concept of a pair of subs used with a top plate. The final horn segment being made from the adjacent sides of the two subs.
This thread is describing the space-saver concept of a pair of subs used with a top plate. The final horn segment being made from the adjacent sides of the two subs.
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What do you mean top plate? Also the space saver needs to be V mounted that's going to take up space on the dance floor. So from my understanding if you put the covers in back of the woofers it is now considered 2 FLH, with this how is the output, would it still be flat to 40 Hz is what I need to 150 Hz. Thanks J.L.
I can share that the 4 bass-sticks I built nest perfectly on their sides in the back of my Toyota Rav-4. (I am my own roadie) I've even fit all four on a single hotel-style luggage rack (two upside-down) to move them from my car to a ballroom in a hotel. Easy to carry with the center-of-gravity low. There is a built-in "handle" being the front of the horn. Very easy to lift.Could be a great solution for bands without roadies and big bandbusses.
Cheers!
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