South African student, DIY-lover

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PWatts said:
JDev,
Welcome to the world of speakerbuilding in a 3rd world country! Soon you'll realize what a frustration it can be. I can give you a few tips that I've learned on the hard way though.

Hi Pierre
Welcome to DIYAudio, I should have said 1st 😱
Thanx for all advice. I am normally a bit over enthusiastic to start with a new project, and in the process make a couple of mistakes, but am learning from them at least. I will go down to Foglar this afternoon and see what old stock he still got that is worth while.
About the tube pre-amp. Are there any specific design you would prefer, specific tubes you fancy? Will you use it mainly for CD or you need a phono section as well? I will start looking/asking around to see what is available. Unfortunately I can only copy, not by any change got enough knowledge to design these creatures. I did however found out where to get what (while building my tube amp). In Paarl for instance is a tube expert, as well as down the street from me - Bothasig. Importing tubes is quit cheap, cheaper then from Mr. Valve in Jhb. Transformers are the only expensive items - the weight thing $$$. I will let you know when I get some circuits.
 
Cape Town Speaker Builders

Shaun

What are you building at the moment ? At this stage I am developing an interest in line arrays and digital crossovers.

It should be nice to see and audition what some of the other Capetonians have made.

If you want mail me privately with your contact details.


Jozua
 
Count me in too- at the moment I'm finishing my new reference speaker project- here are some of the specs:

- 2.5way speaker with built-in active sub
- Scan-Speak drivers throughout
- tweeter is D2905/9500 (separate enclosure)
- midbass is 18W-8543 polypropylene (12l sealed enclosure)
- bass is 18W8544 kevlar (16l vented enclosure)
- active sub is 21W-8552 paper (35l vented enclosure)
- heavily braced labyrinth enclosure
- lots of damping with silicone, putty, bitumen sheets, carpet tiles, open-cell foam & fiberglass
- 1st order series crossover for the midbass/tweeter, 2nd order parallel for the bass and 4th order active for the sub
- all inductors & caps from Jensen (paper-in-foil & paper-in-oil)
- AudioQuest Indigo internal wiring

All in all it cost me almost my life savings...hopefully it'll sound good! I'd like to share some ideas & construction tips from other constructors in the Cape Town area. I'm also working on a modified version of the 300W Leach SuperAmp for powering the beast, and a valve preamp. Somewhere inbetween an active sub is also lurking around. That's not to mention my sub/sat system for my PC and 4ch P3A rear speaker also in production!
Pierre

Pierre
 
Hi, Jozua

My current project is a 2-way using a cheap Vifa tweeter and a Dynaudio 6.5" midbass driver. I've only just bought SoundEasy, and this will be my first complete speaker project for a long time. I have another 2-way floorstander which still requires a crossover. This uses Seas D27TFF tweeter and a Vifa P21WN-20-08 8" poly cone. But this second one is on hold while I get the first one done.

My first speaker was designed using Speaker Workshop, and was an unexpected success, because the drivers were second-hand. Unfortunately (1) it has been sold and (2) I have not since achieved the same level of success.

I have built four active subs, which were all sold. The amplifier I used is a circuit from Dougls Self. Designed the PCB myself. I use two of these amps in my system at home.

I would like to complete my current crossover before we meet, else I'll only have my amps to show.
 
South African DIY loudspeaker lovers

Pierre

I have always considered myself a to be a heavy sound fanatic but I possibly could be in the same league as you.

I would suggest that you consider building the Stan Curtis 60 watt class A amp befotre looking at the Leach amp.

At the moment I am building various ribbon based speakers and once I have the correct "mix" I want to put them into commercial production. At the moment I very happy with my overall sound. The only problem I have is getting hold of high quality capacitors.

I have bought various so called high end equipment and have also build many audio equipment . In time I have come to the conclusion that I derive much more pleasure from my DIY equipment than the commercial units. One can also tweak a DIY amp with much more confidence than a expensive commercial unit.

I use a heavyweight American commercial amp for testing speakers and once I have it sounding right I change it to my DIY amps which to me on the long term sounds much more musical.


We should consider starting a DIY club in Cape Town and do monthly house visits to members houses. I used to be a committee member of the Cape Town Hifi Club (which sadly suffered a slow death with the arrival of home cinema) and it was always nice to get into contact with other members, some who were absolute electronic wizards and could solve a problem in a jiffie. I can still remember how I was nutured into a hifi fanatic by the older club members.

The other benefit was of course that members were always selling equipment amongst each other. In fact that was how I managed to get hold of many equipment I would otherwise not have been able to afford.

If guys are interested in starting a DIY audio club please phone me a/h at 021-5348705 and once we have list of people I will set up a meeting. Weekedays I am usually home from 21H00. If the above number is engaged, please use 021-534-8383.


Jozua


Jozua
 
Hi, Pierre

It's a sad story, but two were built using car audio subs. Actually, the first was an Earthquake Magma 12, which is actually suited to home use. The second was an Earthquake BR10, which was an adequate, but not optimal choice (chose mostly because my client-friend insisted it was OK).

The last two were built by a company in Observatory, Exclusive Enterprises. Regretably, the owner said that this was his final run, and that he would not be building anymore, unless he received a minimum order of 100. These drivers were also not the best subs, and I had to use a Linkwitz transform circuit to get acceptible response. I used a sealed enclosure for this design, but learnt later that a bass reflex configuration might have been more efficient, with less distortion. If I had the opportiunity to do it again, I would probably try this.
 
Hi Shaun,
How much does that Earthquake sub cost, and where can I buy one? Sealed or reflex, and how how much volume? I've seen one guy build a massive sub with a 15" Calibra driver. It sounded horrible. I also had to change it to sealed, reduce the size considerably, Linkwitz Transform it and triple the power before it was marginally useful. The T/S parameters were actually very good, and simulations were not bad at all- low Fs, low Vas, high Qts. However, I suspect the "whoompah" sound has something to do with the drivers moving mass of almost 600g! A proper quality 15"er has MM of less than half that. I think that automotive subs has sort of a "black-magic" factor which makes it rather unappealling. I've seen good results with Boston Acoustics' Pro series drivers, as well as MBQuart in small sealed enclosures, although at their price one can almost think of importing real home audio drivers. One massive project is the JBL 2226 Pro driver in a vented enclosure (look at the "Real Subwoofers" on www.speakerbuilding.com). This offers extremely low bass and high efficiency (96dB @ 1W/1m), at the cost of a very large enclosure. Plus it isn't exactly cheap. I might try to build one when the finance, time & space is available.
Pierre
 
Pierre, I don't know if you can still buy the Magma 12. I got mine used from a colleague, with a PR, for R1200, but that was 3 years ago. This driver features on the LDSG.

Problem is, autosound drivers are like fashion accessories; they quickly go out of favour, and are soon replaced by newer models.

I'm hoping to get hold of some autosound drivers which a friend of this same colleague is bringing in for autosound use (custom branded). Perhaps this one will be OK. Specs are not currently available, but when I get it, I'll measure the T/S params.
 
Hi there guys

I am also a South african DIY enthusiast and just happened to stumble across this thread. My completed projects include a Conrad Johnson PV10A clone and a pair of bookshelf speakers using Scan Speak 18W8543 woofers and D2010 tweeters.

I am currently working on Pass Aleph 5 and 4 clones that should be completed in about 4 weeks time and after that I want to try the drivers from my bookshelf speakers in floorstanding enclosures.

I also live in the Cape Town area and I would be very keen to join a DIY club. Did you guys ever get something like that going? I also used to be a very active member of the Cape Town Hi Fi Club and still mourns it's death!

Regards

DirkD
 
Hi Dirk,

Glad to see someone uses the Scan 8543s! I've built 2 speakers using them, the 1st a simple 2way with the 8543&930000 tweeter in a transmission line enclosure and a 2nd order crossover. They sounded great and had incredible deep & warm bass- given that the 8543 is very bass-shy compared to most other 6.5" drivers).

A professor at our dept. (who designed the cabinets) used the well-known 8545 woofer and the performance was absolutely phenominal. I think that a ProAc 2.5 clone would work particularly well, probably better than the original reflex), in the TL enclosure. We still have a pair of fully finished gloss-black cabinets (just add drivers, crossover, stuffing, grilles and terminals and you're set), if anyone would be interested.

Unfortunately the cabinets are quite large (110cm high, 43cm deep) and therefore has low SAF, and I needed more sensitivity and oomph for home cinema. Thus I set out on a more ambitious project (which never got finished as I was forced to sell some of the woofers) using all-Scanspeak drivers, 2x 6.5" and 2x 8" per speaker.

The latest project, which is almost finished, is a 2.5way with 2x 8543s per speaker and the 950000 tweeter in a 30l ported enclosure. Presently the crossover is a 1st order series crossover but I'm probably going to change it to 2nd order to prevent rising distortion at higher SPL levels- I know home cinema and hi-fi doesn't mix very well but I've no other choice.

I'd very much like to know more about your project, care to show some details?

Hope to see you at one of the club meetings (one of the months I'll be able to come to one!)

Regards,
Pierre
 
South African Student DIY -lover

Dirk

Please e-mail me again as I saw you mail in my inbox but after I my mail I could not find it.

Pierre

Ek het nou al so baie van jou projekte gehoor dat dit nogal gaaf sal wees om vir jou te ontmoet. Jy weet seker teen die tyd dat ek en Johan nou Nelson Pass se X- amps gaan bou.



JH
 
Hi there guys

Nice to hear from all of you. My speakers started out as clones of the Xavian XN185 that I heard at Signals. The originals use the D2010 tweeter and 8542 woofer. Upon installing the 8542's that I got from Foglar I noticed that the foam surrounds had started to perish (shows their age!). Foglar promptly replaced them with a pair of 8543's. They have very similar T & S parameters and worked well in the 13 liter enclosures that I had built. The speakers are reflex tuned to about 42 Hz with 44mm dia 165mm long ports.

The Xovers were designed by Madisound and consist of a second order low pass and third order high pass at 2.6KHz (a bit low for the tweeter, but that is what Xavian used - room for improvement). I used Solen caps and inductors that I got from Solen. Their prices are good and shipping is cheaper than from the USA.

The boxes are made of 22mm MDF and have a front panel that has a slope of about 6 degrees.

I really like the sound and the bass is not bad for the speaker size. I would however like to experiment with a crossover at 3KHz which I found at this site: www.zazac.com/blackbook/blackbook1.htm. (BTW the reflex tuning shown on this site is not optimum) I would also like to try some floorstanding enclosures with an internal volume of 17 litres because I don't like the look of speakers on stands.

I am looking forward to meeting all of you.

Cheers

Dirk
 
South African DIY Lover

Dirk


If I can avoid it I never buy speakers with foam surround. Once the foam has perished and replaced. the speakers is not the same.

There is a clubmember Stefan Erasmus who has done something similar to what you have done. I'll E-mail you his details tonight. Maybe he can provide some info of his design that could be useful to you.

Stefan boxes look more like the Wilson Watt Puppies top half - minus the bass drivers.

He had his crossovers designed and build by Madisound but has since tweaked them considerably. I would not be suprised if they supplied you with the same design as what they posted to Stefan.




Jozua
 
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