hey-Hey!!!,
Amphenol MS-series are quite nice. OD-green and with good voltage ratings for even transmitting tube amps. Contacts rated in Amps. Running -18 size in my 813 amps, with 8 pins total, 7 smaller and one large one in the center( other pin inserts available ). Female end to the PS. Switch on the amp chassis controlling a relay on the power chassis. AC for the filament TX's( and the small 6.3 tx for the front end tube) run through the same umbilical with a small variac on the power chassis to dial in the filaments on the 813's. heat-shrinked 1kV rated TFE-insulated 16 ga wires; the umbilical is as big as my index finger...🙂
cheers
Amphenol MS-series are quite nice. OD-green and with good voltage ratings for even transmitting tube amps. Contacts rated in Amps. Running -18 size in my 813 amps, with 8 pins total, 7 smaller and one large one in the center( other pin inserts available ). Female end to the PS. Switch on the amp chassis controlling a relay on the power chassis. AC for the filament TX's( and the small 6.3 tx for the front end tube) run through the same umbilical with a small variac on the power chassis to dial in the filaments on the 813's. heat-shrinked 1kV rated TFE-insulated 16 ga wires; the umbilical is as big as my index finger...🙂
cheers
Amphenol C16
I used Amphenol C16 connectors to connect my RTP3 and active crossovers to their respective PSUs, one cable for each channel. These are rated to 250V, so (as suggested by an earlier poster) I left a row of empty holes between the +350V HT and the other pins.
These connectors are totally DIY: you buy the housings and pins/sockets separately, solder the wires to the pins and insert into the holes. The result is a slightly fiddly assembly process, but once you are finished, the pins and terminations are hidden completely, and the wires are held very firmly to the connector housings by two separate strain relief systems.
I put a separate chassis safety ground wire in each lead.
I used braided sleeving to enclose the wire.
Alex
I used Amphenol C16 connectors to connect my RTP3 and active crossovers to their respective PSUs, one cable for each channel. These are rated to 250V, so (as suggested by an earlier poster) I left a row of empty holes between the +350V HT and the other pins.
These connectors are totally DIY: you buy the housings and pins/sockets separately, solder the wires to the pins and insert into the holes. The result is a slightly fiddly assembly process, but once you are finished, the pins and terminations are hidden completely, and the wires are held very firmly to the connector housings by two separate strain relief systems.
I put a separate chassis safety ground wire in each lead.
I used braided sleeving to enclose the wire.
Alex
The millitary connectors are the way to go, they are made by all the common manufacturers.
As for cables, be sure they are flexible anough. Taking a load of lovely 600V rated wire, sleeving it, bunching em' all up together is asking for trouble. The braided sleeving already mentioned is ideal because it allows seperate wires to slide over each other. Of course you need to think about grounding and protection of HV cables from lower voltage cables and may end up with a lot more pins than you thought.
All conectors should also be interlocked. If you plug in the PSU on its own do you think the 1.5-2mm distance between the HT pin and whoever is holding it will do the job?
Cheers Matt.
As for cables, be sure they are flexible anough. Taking a load of lovely 600V rated wire, sleeving it, bunching em' all up together is asking for trouble. The braided sleeving already mentioned is ideal because it allows seperate wires to slide over each other. Of course you need to think about grounding and protection of HV cables from lower voltage cables and may end up with a lot more pins than you thought.
All conectors should also be interlocked. If you plug in the PSU on its own do you think the 1.5-2mm distance between the HT pin and whoever is holding it will do the job?
Cheers Matt.
I think this is the solution described. Amphenol 97 series (similar to MS), teflon wire bundle, and mesh tube. These are quite nice, but I think the bayonet PT type are even nicer overall at a similar price.
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My solution, like others mentioned, is separate filament and HT connectors, attached at the PSU end. I see no reason to look further than 4 pin XLRs for filaments, though I do use Speakon 8 pin connectors for more meaty filaments like output tubes.
For the HT I use Speakon 4 pole for the preamp supplies since it's rated at 300v. I like the fact that it's shrouded.
For the HT up to 660vRMS I use Amphenol AP series 4 pole. Nice and chunky and not too expensive. The 4 poles include earth, HT and bias supplies if used.
andy
For the HT I use Speakon 4 pole for the preamp supplies since it's rated at 300v. I like the fact that it's shrouded.
For the HT up to 660vRMS I use Amphenol AP series 4 pole. Nice and chunky and not too expensive. The 4 poles include earth, HT and bias supplies if used.
andy
Micheal, That is perfect. I spent many, many hours building up cables for aerospace kit during my apprenticeship. Was a great job.... in the end. The company is now owned by GE and most people are on short term contracts.
Anyway thats the way cables are made up for fighter jets, so its good enough for me🙂.
Cheers Matt.
Anyway thats the way cables are made up for fighter jets, so its good enough for me🙂.
Cheers Matt.
Andy, I used 3 pin XLRs on a pair of mosfet mono blocks I built years ago. They were the Cannon type which I think is now Neutrik. Anyway very good connectors, they handle perhaps 15A at full tilt, so ideal for heaters. The amps are used occasionaly by a local band and get abuse every time. No trouble so far. The rails are + and - 85V.
Cheers Matt.
Cheers Matt.
Look into connectors from DDK DDK English WEB site
They make a line compatible with the Amphenol 97/MS series and cost a lot less. We use tons of them at my job.
They make a line compatible with the Amphenol 97/MS series and cost a lot less. We use tons of them at my job.
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