If you are doing a DIY T/T, you should plan to use a Mylar Tape belt to drive the outer platter. Grip is better that rubber belt & no stretch to deal with. Cost of belt around $0.50, against $50 +
Cheers
Cheers
Hmm, stretch (AKA compliance) is what reduces vibrations from the motor being picked up by the cartridge and also decouples the wow and flutter of the motor from the platter. The torque required to drive a running turntable is minimal, so slip is actually an advantage by improving speed stability and why belt drive turntable manufacturers recommend lubricating the belt with talcum powder.
You could get parts from Choir Audio but sadly it is defunct, extinct. What happen to John Parker of Choir Audio?
https://web.archive.org/web/20160305144757/http://choiraudio.com/
https://web.archive.org/web/20160305144757/http://choiraudio.com/
Hello Audiostar and others,
As I understand it, John was advised by his doctor to quit the audio business ( got that second hand, not from John ). He then sort of fell off the map, STS. I have no idea how he is doing. Haven't been in contact with him for many years. And I've tried.
See my post ( #18 ) on page one.
Cheers, Crazy Bill
As I understand it, John was advised by his doctor to quit the audio business ( got that second hand, not from John ). He then sort of fell off the map, STS. I have no idea how he is doing. Haven't been in contact with him for many years. And I've tried.
See my post ( #18 ) on page one.
Cheers, Crazy Bill
I might be interested in the platform. I tried to PM you, but it wouldn't let me. Please PM me if it's still available.
I've been attempting to do the same. So far, the biggest snag I've run into is the bearing. I assumed (naively?) that something like these:
Metric Closed Linear Plain Bearing
Metric Steel Linear Shafting
would work, but what I'm finding is that they are way too loose. Does anyone have ideas on how to purchase precision bearings and shafts? If I need to, I'll learn to use the lathe at my local maker shop, but I'd rather buy something off the shelf if I can.
By the way, I think I have the motor and controller moving in a workable direction. I'm using a Maxon DC motor and I'm designing a controller that is an arduino shield. It's definitely a work-in-progress, but I think it's going to work out.
Metric Closed Linear Plain Bearing
Metric Steel Linear Shafting
would work, but what I'm finding is that they are way too loose. Does anyone have ideas on how to purchase precision bearings and shafts? If I need to, I'll learn to use the lathe at my local maker shop, but I'd rather buy something off the shelf if I can.
By the way, I think I have the motor and controller moving in a workable direction. I'm using a Maxon DC motor and I'm designing a controller that is an arduino shield. It's definitely a work-in-progress, but I think it's going to work out.
Do you know a good source for suitable mylar tape? Every time I search for something like that, it always has glue on it.
The bearing is critical to noise; the roughness of mating surfaces is what generates noise so ideally the surfaces need to be polished to the limits of what is technically possible. The precision of the platter's perpendicularity on the shaft is also critical; if there is any visible vertical runout on the platter it will cause audible wow. The easiest way to get this right is to buy a precsion engineer bearing and sub-platter.
Tango Spinner make sub-platters and ceramic bearings suitable for any Rega platter, and Rega platters are relatively easy to come by from crap fibreboard to extremely good glass and ceramic models. Have a look at TangoSpinner bearing sleeves , TangoSpinner Sub-Platters
Understood and thank you for the suggestions / links. My personal turntable is a DIY Teres which has a fantastic bearing. The table I'm designing is for my son. We want it to be good, but it doesn't need to be state of the art. I guess I've been researching options because I hoped that sufficient precision might be available off the shelf, and cheaper, if one got creative (like this example). I may very well find that I can't source a good bearing off the shelf, in which case I will either make my own or buy through TangoSpinner or one of their competitors. I've done a bit of lathe work, but it has been decades and I'm definitely an amateur at it.
Hi is not hard to source an off the shelf bearing, but you are looking in the wrong area. DIYaudio is not big on T/T's!!
Photo Attached is a T/T I made up using off the shelf parts from Lenco & TemaadAudio. The T/T itself sits in a sand plinth & uses a Lenco L78 (balanced) platter & refurbished bearing (Wakefield UK- 301/401 refurbisher)It is driven via a separate DC motor pod & uses a readily available DC motor. Although mine cost more than $1000 to build, it can be build for around a $1000 by using Temaadaudio kitset 12'' arm option.
The performance level of the T/T completed, if you bought commercially is around $20,000, (yes I kid you not)
link for build - https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=39281.0
Cheers
Photo Attached is a T/T I made up using off the shelf parts from Lenco & TemaadAudio. The T/T itself sits in a sand plinth & uses a Lenco L78 (balanced) platter & refurbished bearing (Wakefield UK- 301/401 refurbisher)It is driven via a separate DC motor pod & uses a readily available DC motor. Although mine cost more than $1000 to build, it can be build for around a $1000 by using Temaadaudio kitset 12'' arm option.
The performance level of the T/T completed, if you bought commercially is around $20,000, (yes I kid you not)
link for build - https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=39281.0
Cheers
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Rather impressive machine! The tonearm bearing assembly also is from a Pioneer PL 12-D, isn't it?
Best regards!
Hi Johnmath. The T/T was developed with have a fully refurbished Lenco 75 & Technics SP15 as a comparison. Both my re-versioned Lenco & the SP15 have a W&F of 0.04, the refurbished Lenco 75 is higher at 0.07. Rumble & low level hum of the 75 is discernable, but not on my L78 because partly because the bearing is sitting in a sand filled plinth no discernable rumble. Also SP15 as would be expected has no discernable rumble. Hoever using the same arm/cart my re-versioned L78 is easily the best of the 3, by a considerable margin.
Fortunetly Lenco's are not in heaven, but being re-furbished by the dozen. Arthur Salvatore (hi end audio influencer) has labelled the refurbished Lenco 75 as Upper Class A. Currently the best t/t AT ANY COST. {HOWEVER THIS VERSION WILL COAST AROUND $8000!!) To refurbish a Lenco to high end as most people do when following L/H will cost around $2 - $2500. I choose not to go that route.
Cheers
Fortunetly Lenco's are not in heaven, but being re-furbished by the dozen. Arthur Salvatore (hi end audio influencer) has labelled the refurbished Lenco 75 as Upper Class A. Currently the best t/t AT ANY COST. {HOWEVER THIS VERSION WILL COAST AROUND $8000!!) To refurbish a Lenco to high end as most people do when following L/H will cost around $2 - $2500. I choose not to go that route.
Cheers
Rumble generation occurs in the bearings; it's not clear to me how an external sandbox can contribute to reducing bearing rumble.
A turntable transport has a fairly simple purpose, namely to rotate the platter at a constant speed without fluctuations or noise, and without eccentricity in the vertical or horizontal axis, whilst providing isolation from structural and and acoustically induced interference. All of these performance criteria are quantifiable and therefore objective comparisons can be made between different models.
I am well aware that many brands of vintage turntable have cult like status and consequently proponents with single minded zeal. I am not blinkered by any allegiance to any particular manufacturer or model, or even any particular fundamental design approach, which perhaps allows me to a little more objective about the particular merits and pitfalls or individual turntables.
A turntable transport has a fairly simple purpose, namely to rotate the platter at a constant speed without fluctuations or noise, and without eccentricity in the vertical or horizontal axis, whilst providing isolation from structural and and acoustically induced interference. All of these performance criteria are quantifiable and therefore objective comparisons can be made between different models.
I am well aware that many brands of vintage turntable have cult like status and consequently proponents with single minded zeal. I am not blinkered by any allegiance to any particular manufacturer or model, or even any particular fundamental design approach, which perhaps allows me to a little more objective about the particular merits and pitfalls or individual turntables.
Hi, Yes rumble occurs in a poorly designed or implemented bearing, Correct, my use of the Lenco bearing was originally just a trial, as anyone who knows that bearing will agree, it does not inspire confidence. However once install with the sand filled plinth the results where so drastically superior to my original Lenco & SP15, I can see no reason why I should change.
I was 1st inspired to develop my sand plinth many years ago after reading this review on written by TNTaudio on line mag.
https://www.tnt-audio.com/sorgenti/teemaudio_kit2_e.htmlWhat Geoff Husband wrote I can fully concur with, having made many plinths before settling on my current one. I also went on & bought on of temaad arms, which they also still do in a kit from.
Cheers
I was 1st inspired to develop my sand plinth many years ago after reading this review on written by TNTaudio on line mag.
https://www.tnt-audio.com/sorgenti/teemaudio_kit2_e.htmlWhat Geoff Husband wrote I can fully concur with, having made many plinths before settling on my current one. I also went on & bought on of temaad arms, which they also still do in a kit from.
Cheers