Soundstream repair

Hello my friends! I'm a italian electronic student. I trying to repair my soundstream xxx4000D, someone have the schematic of this amplifier? I successfully repair the switching circuit(20 IRFZ 46N) and i've replace all mosfet and all gate resistor. My problem is that the final amplification part (10 IRFP264N) has 2 mosfets burned probably due to excessive heat. In fact, the part that manages the positive rail heats up more than the other. (I think it's probably fair as the amp was developed in a fairly crude way but still works anyway). All the final transistors will probably be replaced with IRFP 4232s, but I would like to know if anyone has the schematics to edit the resistances of the idle current to ensure that they have a normal absorption at rest.

PS: Thanks for understanding and sorry for my bad english, i had to use google translate. I look forward to your help for some schemes. Thanks a lot to everyone and have a nice day.

-Matteo
 
I haven't worked on one of these but I believe it uses the larger cased transistors on the driver board.
The design is similar to many Asian designs/clones. You can search/download a Boss GT2500D from the link below, you may have to trace/match your amplifiers components to match the schematic, but it should be the same design and helpful to troubleshoot.

Also, see if you can have the mods (small red triangle bottom left of your post) move your post to the car audio repair section of the forums, there are lots more smarter people and reply faster.


Boss Audio Systems GT2500D Service Manual (Page 5 of 10) | ManualsLib
 
All Pcb
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.



Amplifier
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.



Driver:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.



PS: I have already tested the driver circuit and it does not show any damage.
The switching section it was fixed by me the day before yesterday and now it works. I also replaced the gate resistors in the final stage with slightly larger precision resistors (120ohm).
 
I'd suggest removing the large driver transistors, cleaning the legs, flooding their vias and desoldering, then reinstalling them. They develop bad solder connections that are difficult to repair reliably by resoldering, only.

The CCS is where you need to adjust idle current. The resistor to replace is R95 on the diagram. Increasing value reduces CCS current and idle current.