390 ohms
These run hot. Replace them with the highest wattage part that you can find that will fit in the allotted space and install them well off of the board. This will help prevent any further heat related damage to the circuit board.
These run hot. Replace them with the highest wattage part that you can find that will fit in the allotted space and install them well off of the board. This will help prevent any further heat related damage to the circuit board.
Where are these being used?
Are you sure you're seeing all of the part number?
How about an mtp50n05e?
Are you sure you're seeing all of the part number?
How about an mtp50n05e?
When I first began repairing amps, I always tried to make everything better by using parts with higher ratings. In some instances, it caused problems. Now, unless I can test a particular sub, I suggest the closest to the original (with only a few exceptions). The Z44 is very close to the original part and is, in my opinion, unlikely to cause any unforeseen problems. He could probably use Z46s, Z48s, NDP7060s, IRF3205s and not have problems but since these amps worked well for many years with the original parts, I believe that the Z44s will be a reliable replacement part.
intersting, i have 4 ref-300's and none of them have the little blue pots i see on your amp next to the FEB's...
would these be for tweeking dc offset?
would these be for tweeking dc offset?
They're bias pots. The class A amps have diodes in parallel with the emitter resistors and the emitter resistors are 1 ohm instead of 0.27 ohms found in the class B amps.
Back to this amp i replaced the fets in the supply and all of the outputs checked the gate resistors and emitter resistors all check good
But when trying to power this amp up it draws 40 amps of current wondering whats the next step?
But when trying to power this amp up it draws 40 amps of current wondering whats the next step?
it stopped pulling current I think 1 is blown its shorted between middle and 3rd leg
They are using fed16bt's wondering what a good sub for this is
Sorry it took so long to get back to you i just picked up 20 amps to work on my fav ones mtx's the old 2300's
They are using fed16bt's wondering what a good sub for this is
Sorry it took so long to get back to you i just picked up 20 amps to work on my fav ones mtx's the old 2300's
512-FEP16BTD (mouser)
http://cgi.ebay.com/FED16CT-16A-150...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item58827cbd21
I like the old 2300s but some of them can be really tough to troubleshoot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/FED16CT-16A-150...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item58827cbd21
I like the old 2300s but some of them can be really tough to troubleshoot.
ok i had one i pulled out of a parts board amp is powerd up and palying fine.
Thanks well its off to the mtx 2300's i have 5 of them to fix and the other mtx's i picked up
Next load after theese are the old rockford fosgates punch 100's and ect totaling 25 amps im gonna keep busy i guess
Thanks well its off to the mtx 2300's i have 5 of them to fix and the other mtx's i picked up
Next load after theese are the old rockford fosgates punch 100's and ect totaling 25 amps im gonna keep busy i guess
Last edited:
I have one of these amps driving a boss platform and i notice an early roll off at bass.
anybody knows which ones are the input caps?
i thought if i replace them with larger roll off will go lower.
anybody knows which ones are the input caps?
i thought if i replace them with larger roll off will go lower.
Please don't post in a repair thread that was started by someone else unless you are trying to help them.
Start a new thread if you need help with a repair of your own.
http://www.bcae1.com/temp/newthreaddiy01.png
Start a new thread if you need help with a repair of your own.
http://www.bcae1.com/temp/newthreaddiy01.png