Nismoron said:I started in car audio in about 86 and retired from installing professionally in 2000. I tend to like the stuff that left the biggest impressions on my younger days. Almost always the stuff I could not afford back then and cant find now! I didn't even look at car audio for about 5 1/2 years after I quit. Now I am looking back into it as a hobby and am just STUNNED at the industry a whole. Everything is CRAP! My wife's truck with a D200 on 2 Quart 8's is crushing a friend at work with 2 new Kicker 10's on some sort of 1000watt mono D-class junk. And the sound quality isn't even close. It's really funny because he is just baffled. I tried explaining his mid 80's db efficiency woofers are way too power hungry compared to my 90ish db old school "junk". He just cant understand why my 360 watt old stuff is louder and cleaner than his 2000 watts. And he will never understand the Soundstream D-series advantage! hahaha He scoffs. Gaa, they dont even have built in crossovers! Must be cheap crap. hahaha. Kids!
I don't know...I got into car audio in the middle 90's and so on....I'm no kid now, I'm 31 but I have never heard of Orion or Soundstream. I just can't force myself to pay a lot less for a Soundstream amp compared to a Rockford or MTX amp as when I was into car audio back then that was the rage. Kicker, Punch, MtX, PPI, all ruled the day. I see some great prices on these Soundstream amps and I'm just hesitant to buy cause you get what you pay for. So when I hear you guys talking about Soundstream stuff, it makes me think a little bit more. I'm still probably going to go for MTX or Punch cause that's what I started with and they never let me down...MTX always kicked IMO How good is this Soundstream stuff though? I don't see anything on EBAY for a D200 model amp like you guys are talking about....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260167889979&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:US:1123
D200 that just ended.
I am still waiting for my D100II to come in the mail.
On a side note:
What is the difference between the D100 and the Class A 50?
Is one just biased higher or is there circuit / parts differences?
D200 that just ended.
I am still waiting for my D100II to come in the mail.
On a side note:
What is the difference between the D100 and the Class A 50?
Is one just biased higher or is there circuit / parts differences?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...loc=closed_view_item&refwidgettype=osi_widget
Here's another dual mono amp on ebay I'd like to have. 😉
Here's another dual mono amp on ebay I'd like to have. 😉
Yeah, I was watching that in my ebay. I'm surprised it sold for so cheap.
troystg said:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260167889979&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:US:1123
D200 that just ended.
I am still waiting for my D100II to come in the mail.
On a side note:
What is the difference between the D100 and the Class A 50?
Is one just biased higher or is there circuit / parts differences?
d200 has clarity & detail
The d200 is a very sweet amp. Using it as a sub amp is a shame.
I had it in my Volvo running 5in seas woofers and seas tweeters. Tweeky!
It will produce the best results in a full range. skip the 10in sub speakers and put in 4 ea. 6 1/2in (or 8") drivers and a teeter, 2 way component. that was my old school solution. the ford galaxie was rockin(volvo retired) but it had the room for that in the trunk.
The amp is now used as my bench amp on a 12v supply (no hum). It is better than any other amp in the house (for now). It also has a bit of noise in the switching supply, thinking the toroid xformer. hmm. rtv silicone.
Employ it as a sub, but consider this...keep in stereo full range...
then;
use a passive crossover to drive the 2 subs, Left and right. And and in-line large cap before the deck speakers. hmmm 1-2henry inductor and a 250uf cap (nonpolar). got a few if you want. You'll be amazed the depth of sound.
I had this setup a few weeks ago with a 3in full range speaker and 8in subs.
The car stereo head amps are 18watts at 1% distortion (best case). They are not worthy!
last note: keep it cool with a fan if you can.
The d200 is a very sweet amp. Using it as a sub amp is a shame.
I had it in my Volvo running 5in seas woofers and seas tweeters. Tweeky!
It will produce the best results in a full range. skip the 10in sub speakers and put in 4 ea. 6 1/2in (or 8") drivers and a teeter, 2 way component. that was my old school solution. the ford galaxie was rockin(volvo retired) but it had the room for that in the trunk.
The amp is now used as my bench amp on a 12v supply (no hum). It is better than any other amp in the house (for now). It also has a bit of noise in the switching supply, thinking the toroid xformer. hmm. rtv silicone.
Employ it as a sub, but consider this...keep in stereo full range...
then;
use a passive crossover to drive the 2 subs, Left and right. And and in-line large cap before the deck speakers. hmmm 1-2henry inductor and a 250uf cap (nonpolar). got a few if you want. You'll be amazed the depth of sound.
I had this setup a few weeks ago with a 3in full range speaker and 8in subs.
The car stereo head amps are 18watts at 1% distortion (best case). They are not worthy!
last note: keep it cool with a fan if you can.
Flyin11 said:
I don't know...I got into car audio in the middle 90's and so on....I'm no kid now, I'm 31 but I have never heard of Orion or Soundstream. I just can't force myself to pay a lot less for a Soundstream amp compared to a Rockford or MTX amp as when I was into car audio back then that was the rage. Kicker, Punch, MtX, PPI, all ruled the day. I see some great prices on these Soundstream amps and I'm just hesitant to buy cause you get what you pay for. So when I hear you guys talking about Soundstream stuff, it makes me think a little bit more. I'm still probably going to go for MTX or Punch cause that's what I started with and they never let me down...MTX always kicked IMO How good is this Soundstream stuff though? I don't see anything on EBAY for a D200 model amp like you guys are talking about....
The mainstream companies mentioned that "ruled the day" were well positioned at the right time for the car audio explosion of the '80s and '90s. Their names will live in infamy. And those names were in the face of everyone with even a passing interest in car audio. Most have changed hands and their efforts today to appeal to the masses have left them all mere shadows of their former selves.
But there were other companies that made products as good or better. Audio Art, Linear Power, Rodek, Alphasonik, Harmon Kardon, to name a few. And how many young guys would believe that Pyle was once a family owned business that actually made really nice gear? I believe that 99% of people have probably never heard of some of the higher end stuff.
Perfect example; my little smart mouthed, 19 year old neighbor laughed at my SQ set-up of Linear Power and a/d/s for no other reasons than he had never heard of either, and the bass wouldn't cave in my head. All he knows is Audiobahn this, and Audiobahn that.
Being able to pick up a true high quality old school amp for cheap on ebay(or elsewhere) undoubtedly has more to do with the lack of knowledge of the prospective buyers than the actual amp itself. I recently bought an old school US made Hifonics 4 channel on ebay for $28. Works perfectly and will easily produce 200x2 bridged into 4 ohms. I now have 6 of these amps, and have a total of less than $350 invested. Everything is relative.
I once saw a D200 forsale in a store that go to often for about US$80 but I didn't have the money or use for such at that time so I wasn't able to buy it. 🙁
but I was able to buy a used SA80 (bad cosmetic condition but works perfectly) for about US$30. planning to use it to power a small sub (6.5"- 8" just to augment a factory system. 🙂
but I was able to buy a used SA80 (bad cosmetic condition but works perfectly) for about US$30. planning to use it to power a small sub (6.5"- 8" just to augment a factory system. 🙂
deals
I got mine from someone for 100bucks. He didn't like it for his subs.
I worked on many a linear power. still have a little baby one 20w/ch.
I took one look at the d200 circuit board, knew the name and bought it. It's construction is excellent. That was in 1991.
anyone remember precision power amps?
the 1kw Zues (greek god series)?
I got mine from someone for 100bucks. He didn't like it for his subs.
I worked on many a linear power. still have a little baby one 20w/ch.
I took one look at the d200 circuit board, knew the name and bought it. It's construction is excellent. That was in 1991.
anyone remember precision power amps?
the 1kw Zues (greek god series)?
The D100II and Class A-50 are nearly identical except for a few parts...
including the higher bias. I have a schematic for both. You can convert
the D100II to a Class A-50, but beware of the heat! I would thoroughly
test it on the bench before installing it if you do the conversion.
including the higher bias. I have a schematic for both. You can convert
the D100II to a Class A-50, but beware of the heat! I would thoroughly
test it on the bench before installing it if you do the conversion.
zener_diode said:........The D100II and Class A-50 are nearly identical except for a few parts...
including the higher bias. I have a schematic for both........
Can I PLEASE get a copy? PLEEEEEEEASE?
Sorry i kind of fell off this thread.....
My fav car amps of all time are the D200 number 1, the HK CA260 #2 and any of the Linear Power amps. those babies kicked ***!
Never liked the ADS stuff, many people did, but they sounded so compressed to me...just never struck me. had cool features way back when. remember the ADS rack system? Big plate you could clip ADS amp modules onto.
The original D-200 had a somewhat underated power supply. the series II added a better PWM system with better regulation. Standard audiophile POOGE technics would help. But, how far do you really want to go with it? the stock PSu is so weak, any upgrades would just most likely worsen it but putting extra load on the PSU. The best thing would be for someone to design a whole new power supply section for these things. or at least, copy the S-II power supply design and beef it up. bigger switching transistors, diodes, caps, add bypass caps etc etc.
What made the D-200 so good, was not that it was any special circuit. just that it was a good textbook design. simple, clean. elegant. none of this fancy crap you see on the newer amps. and it wasnt junk like the cheapo amps of the time either. In fact. I think it was Audio magazine did an article where the guy hooked a D-200 up to his home system and compared to to some super high end amps. I admit i have done this as well. and for a car amp. not bad.
Zc
My fav car amps of all time are the D200 number 1, the HK CA260 #2 and any of the Linear Power amps. those babies kicked ***!
Never liked the ADS stuff, many people did, but they sounded so compressed to me...just never struck me. had cool features way back when. remember the ADS rack system? Big plate you could clip ADS amp modules onto.
The original D-200 had a somewhat underated power supply. the series II added a better PWM system with better regulation. Standard audiophile POOGE technics would help. But, how far do you really want to go with it? the stock PSu is so weak, any upgrades would just most likely worsen it but putting extra load on the PSU. The best thing would be for someone to design a whole new power supply section for these things. or at least, copy the S-II power supply design and beef it up. bigger switching transistors, diodes, caps, add bypass caps etc etc.
What made the D-200 so good, was not that it was any special circuit. just that it was a good textbook design. simple, clean. elegant. none of this fancy crap you see on the newer amps. and it wasnt junk like the cheapo amps of the time either. In fact. I think it was Audio magazine did an article where the guy hooked a D-200 up to his home system and compared to to some super high end amps. I admit i have done this as well. and for a car amp. not bad.
Zc
Here is a cheaper home amp for you: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180184663883&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=008
This spring the Ds were going cheaper. Always wanted one but never got to it, just keep using old alpines. I remember putting a system in with a LP 5002, 3002, 3002, SS D200, D60, all X02 LP crossovers, some high end Kenwood HU that was two DIN one behind the dash. Needed ear plugs just to crank it up. Had two RF 15s I could stand on the cones and not hurt in a huge sealed box. Had 4 8" subs, 4 6" mids, 6 1" soft domes. Put two of the biggest 12v RV batteries we could find in the back with a disconnect, and this truck had two batteries under the hood. The owner was completely nuts too, really into racing offroad stuff. He would play it until the batteries died and start the truck up for a while.
This spring the Ds were going cheaper. Always wanted one but never got to it, just keep using old alpines. I remember putting a system in with a LP 5002, 3002, 3002, SS D200, D60, all X02 LP crossovers, some high end Kenwood HU that was two DIN one behind the dash. Needed ear plugs just to crank it up. Had two RF 15s I could stand on the cones and not hurt in a huge sealed box. Had 4 8" subs, 4 6" mids, 6 1" soft domes. Put two of the biggest 12v RV batteries we could find in the back with a disconnect, and this truck had two batteries under the hood. The owner was completely nuts too, really into racing offroad stuff. He would play it until the batteries died and start the truck up for a while.
troystg said:
Can I PLEASE get a copy? PLEEEEEEEASE?
No problem. I'll scan them.
As for the power supply, the schematic says how many turns for
the primary and secondary, so it should be easy for someone to
make a better power supply. Hopefully someone experiments with this
and posts the results.
zenner_diode-
Thank you, I would REALLY appreciate it!!
jol50-
If your going to suggest a "vintage" home amp it might as well be a classic.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mark-Levinson-M...ryZ39783QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Thank you, I would REALLY appreciate it!!
jol50-
If your going to suggest a "vintage" home amp it might as well be a classic.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mark-Levinson-M...ryZ39783QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Indeed, but I said cheaper🙂 Maybe not as impressive, but certainly robust if you ever want to have a loud party. I only have an 80s HK and find that impressive, but don't even have room to set it up right now and it needs minor repair.
Also got a hold of one of the older SS rubicon that is 300w, but have only used it on subs in a car not highs yet. Going to change out all my amps though, so I will have to figure out what should go where. I don't think they are quite as nice as the Ds, but not bad right?
Also got a hold of one of the older SS rubicon that is 300w, but have only used it on subs in a car not highs yet. Going to change out all my amps though, so I will have to figure out what should go where. I don't think they are quite as nice as the Ds, but not bad right?
jol50-
I can't comment on the Rubicon models.. I only played with the D and Reference models.
I use an old Orion 2125sx with a servo for the low end, and am replacing the a/d/s/ P640.2 with a pair of D100II's on the high end.
I can't comment on the Rubicon models.. I only played with the D and Reference models.
I use an old Orion 2125sx with a servo for the low end, and am replacing the a/d/s/ P640.2 with a pair of D100II's on the high end.
zener_diode
Can you please send me schematics for and D (60, 100 and 200)or MC (120 & 140)series SS amps if you have them? I have several of each that are not currently working.
thanks
Can you please send me schematics for and D (60, 100 and 200)or MC (120 & 140)series SS amps if you have them? I have several of each that are not currently working.
thanks
mitchyz250f said:zener_diode
Can you please send me schematics for and D (60, 100 and 200)or MC (120 & 140)series SS amps if you have them? I have several of each that are not currently working.
thanks
I only have the D100II and the Class A-50II schematics. I will scan
them tomorrow. Anyone that wants them, PM me your email address
and I will email them to you.
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