No worries, Carl! And you are absolutely correct about allowing any solvent-based material to flash off before driver installation. It’s always good to check the can for any curing time suggestions. I usually allow a couple of days in the shop with proper air circulation just to be sure for the roof cement.
That would only be true for frequencies below the Schroeder frequency of the enclosure where standing waves form. Higher frequencies would be effectively absorbed with a "wall" mounted absorber.
Your point is worth noting considering standing waves can be very problematic, even more so than damping the backwave.
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Thankyou Criag
I was thinking of using some sort of rubber/bitumen sheet and over that roof cement(i believe its same as black rubber paint?) to seal the cabinet. Will definitely give time to dry for a week, be it any form of paint just to be safe.
Purchased ROCKWOOK for sound absorption. Which i'll lay on top.
This is for Zaph SB12.3 sealed enclosure. Also do we have to cover all 4 sides of enclosure?
Thankyou, I am not sure if i understood correctly. Are you saying that just absorptive material is sufficient?
I want to handle vibration as i'll be using wood. Its a sealed enclosure.
I’m a little unclear on whether melamine foam works for absorption, panel damping, or both. Most of the commercial sound products promote it’s sound absorption characteristics, but does it also work well to line and deaden cabinet walls?
Mostly absorption and it makes the cabinet ever so slightly larger in appearance to the woofer. For damping get air conditioning damping sheets from the hardware store, they are just like the expensive brand name damping sheets at a fraction of the price. They are foil backed sticky rubberized sheeting like used in cars to stop the rattling of the body.
Do you mean butyl rubber?
I would like to use wool felt, but have had half my sweaters eaten by moths each of the past two summers, so I'm concerned about using wool for panel damping.