How would I go about doing that ? Would I need a separate amp for the subwoofer itself ?
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A separate preamp. It would split the audio signal so the low frequencies go to the sub and the high frequencies go to the other speakers.
If it needs its own power supply, the transformer you have will work.
You'll have to find one for sale or DIY.
If it needs its own power supply, the transformer you have will work.
You'll have to find one for sale or DIY.
So I can't use something like this
http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-100-hz-low-pass-8-ohm-crossover--266-446
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http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-100-hz-low-pass-8-ohm-crossover--266-446
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No. It's 8-ohm instead of 4-ohm, and it doesn't address summing the channels.
You might have luck in the car stereo section.
You might have luck in the car stereo section.
Could you maybe recommend something that does address summing the channels , should it not be 8 ohm seeing that the subwoofer speaker is a 50watt 8ohm speaker
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As I said before, you could hook up the speaker bar and listen to it while working on the subwoofer. Don't get too discouraged.
I'm confused. Back in post 15 it says: Subwoofer 50W RMS into 4 ohms.
I'm confused. Back in post 15 it says: Subwoofer 50W RMS into 4 ohms.
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True thanks , I'll get started on the sound bar so long I'll post another drawing later , just want to make sure I can wire it the way I'm thinking
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As you can see from the pics I think it's a 50watt 8 ohm speaker and the stats on the website are fake it's badly printed on the speaker but it looking an 8
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I know it's a cheap looking set but I think once I have the boxes build and system playing I can slowly upgrade things so I end up with something to really listen to and looks good 🙂
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In the post 17 that transformer I posted you said I need a rectifier to convert supply DC power would I need something like this
http://www.parts-express.com/sure-e...00uf-rectifier-board-for-amplifiers--320-3371
http://www.parts-express.com/sure-e...00uf-rectifier-board-for-amplifiers--320-3371
No, not that. You need just a single polarity DC supply rectifier and filter in the 12-24V range.
Ok cool I guess I'll deal with that when I build the subwoofer , for now ill concentrate on the sound bar so would you recommend I get the 6x100 amp with the power supply and start building the sound bar, also I see the enclosure size is also an important thing or does it not really matter when dealing with such small speakers ?
As far as enclosure size goes, it is an important thing. In this case, though, there is no real data to allow that kind of optimization, and just building a sealed enclosure large enough for those drivers will get you most of the way there. That's how I understand it, from my limited knowledge of loudspeaker design.
As for recommendations, the amp has been settled I suppose, but I am still unclear on the power supply you'll be using.
As for recommendations, the amp has been settled I suppose, but I am still unclear on the power supply you'll be using.
I should include:
On many recordings, the low frequencies are common to both channels. So you could use the passive crossover you linked for the sub, with just one channel connected.
The downside is it might work better with 50 Cent's 'The Candy Shop' than The Beatles' 'I Saw Her Standing There'.
On many recordings, the low frequencies are common to both channels. So you could use the passive crossover you linked for the sub, with just one channel connected.
The downside is it might work better with 50 Cent's 'The Candy Shop' than The Beatles' 'I Saw Her Standing There'.
ok so this is the final setup i think would work best
8 x 10w 8 ohm speakers
4 x 5w 8 ohm Tweeters
lay out as below
OoO | OoO | Amp\PSU | OoO | OoO |
the Amp i think will work best is this one:
Sure Electronics 6x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board
The Power supply is this one :
Sure Electronics 24 VDC 14.6A 350W Regulated Switching Power Supply
please let me know if the above setup is compatible
then later i would like to upgrade the speakers to the below ones
Dayton Audio ND91-4 3-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm
8 x 10w 8 ohm speakers
4 x 5w 8 ohm Tweeters
lay out as below
OoO | OoO | Amp\PSU | OoO | OoO |
the Amp i think will work best is this one:
Sure Electronics 6x100W TDA7498 Class-D Amplifier Board
The Power supply is this one :
Sure Electronics 24 VDC 14.6A 350W Regulated Switching Power Supply
please let me know if the above setup is compatible
then later i would like to upgrade the speakers to the below ones
Dayton Audio ND91-4 3-1/2" Aluminum Cone Full-Range Driver 4 Ohm
Great stuff, then im all set for the sound bar, thanks fpr all the help sofaspud much appreciated
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