Pondering a crazy idea to use four of these in a class-A amp.
I need help with ideas for mounting to a water block. It's a rather standard package style, but no off-the-shelf water blocks nor clamping systems seem to stand out with a quick google search.
Looking for construction examples and ideas. A 250W class-A amp sounds like a fun project
I need help with ideas for mounting to a water block. It's a rather standard package style, but no off-the-shelf water blocks nor clamping systems seem to stand out with a quick google search.
Looking for construction examples and ideas. A 250W class-A amp sounds like a fun project
I opened a thread already 🙂
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/cons...thoughts-alternative-cooling.html#post2738978
I guess a common place to discuss watercooling and audio aplications can be helpful...
Persoanlly I am going for the common rail approach, providing a single water channel inbetween the devices and the finned heatsinks.
P.s. I had a look at the datasheet...an intiial approach could be based on adhesive pads however mechanical pressure and thermal compound would be preferable. It is difficult to accomplis with conventional waterblocks so alternative "blocks" must be used..
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/cons...thoughts-alternative-cooling.html#post2738978
I guess a common place to discuss watercooling and audio aplications can be helpful...
Persoanlly I am going for the common rail approach, providing a single water channel inbetween the devices and the finned heatsinks.
P.s. I had a look at the datasheet...an intiial approach could be based on adhesive pads however mechanical pressure and thermal compound would be preferable. It is difficult to accomplis with conventional waterblocks so alternative "blocks" must be used..
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You rock.. I am not alone.
There's some water blocks here, but they're sized for PECs. I can't really bolt the devices to them either as the holes will extend into the water path. There seems to be a slot in the magnatec dimensional drawings for use with a clamp, but I can't really tell until I buy them.
Hmmm... Still thinking.
In the big wide world, I'm sure there has to be an off-the-shelf SOT-227 water block somewhere.
There's some water blocks here, but they're sized for PECs. I can't really bolt the devices to them either as the holes will extend into the water path. There seems to be a slot in the magnatec dimensional drawings for use with a clamp, but I can't really tell until I buy them.
Hmmm... Still thinking.
In the big wide world, I'm sure there has to be an off-the-shelf SOT-227 water block somewhere.
Not right, but way awesome none the less.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I really think thre is no other way than either using extrusions or creating large highflow waterblocks from pure copper.
Anyother application would either force construction issues and/or limit the number and size of output devices...
🙁
Anyother application would either force construction issues and/or limit the number and size of output devices...
🙁
the datasheet shows 4x parallel Q - why not just use 4x of the same Q in more conventional packaging?
are you pushing frequency to beyond TO-247 lead inductance limit? - is the sot-277 any better?
with the lower power density normal solid metal heatsinks work pretty well
are you pushing frequency to beyond TO-247 lead inductance limit? - is the sot-277 any better?
with the lower power density normal solid metal heatsinks work pretty well
I have some old scrap, 1/2" thick plate of white brass. Using small blocks for one (or multiple) devices, I use thermal mica pads and HS grease to mount the block to a 1/4" aluminum angle bracket, then directly mount the transistor tabs to the block, and energize the block with the rail voltage for the drain/collector. The density of the brass is much higher than aluminum and white brass happens to be an excellent thermal conductor.🙂 Mounting the brass to a waterblock would be an interesting idea.
jcx,
The BUZ901X4S in the SOT-227 (ISOTOP) package is equal electrically to a pair of the BUZ900DPs in the TO3P (TO-247) package. Sure, I could use double in that package. There's just something cool about them in the bigger ISOTOP one.
When the amp is done, there's going to be three big copper buss bars attaching them and (hopefully) sitting on a copper water block. To me, it has a high 'cool' factor by being different.
The BUZ901X4S in the SOT-227 (ISOTOP) package is equal electrically to a pair of the BUZ900DPs in the TO3P (TO-247) package. Sure, I could use double in that package. There's just something cool about them in the bigger ISOTOP one.
When the amp is done, there's going to be three big copper buss bars attaching them and (hopefully) sitting on a copper water block. To me, it has a high 'cool' factor by being different.
CBS240, your idea for a separate mounting plate is a good one. There just doesn't seem to be any cold plates made for the "small" ISOTOP modules. But if go with a copper block the right size for mounting the modules then bolt that to a cold plate, I end up with what I want.
Just a remark: You can plan on water cooling, but all it does is move heat more efficiently. You still have to dump that heat into the atmosphere. Dissipating 1000W watts of power is a feat you can't do without some form of active cooling. As an example, a 3x120mm radiator with 6 fans in push-pull is able to dissipate about 400 watts of power and those fans you are going to hear quite clearly. Take a look into the water cooling of high-end PC setups 🙂
Somehow fan noise + class A seems to bite in my opinion.
Somehow fan noise + class A seems to bite in my opinion.
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A joke with a friend was to use a radiator from old chevy pickup. That can sit up in the attic for all I care. The pump has to sit on the low point of the system and that I'm concerned about. I guess the "green" way and "wife acceptance factor" would to use a heat exchanger the way solar roof panels are used with a hot water pre heater.
"Honey, this isn't wasted heat as we're using it for our hot water"
"Honey, this isn't wasted heat as we're using it for our hot water"
I used 2 radiators from an audi tt, check my thread, one of the phots. It can be done and work nicely. Beware of galvanic corrosion (mixed alu/cu loop) and just be concerned with size, ease of use and bulkiness... using car radiators brings all sorts of problems!
Alex
Alex
Well....if you look at the mo-ra3 radiator it does provide a very large surface for thermal transfer.
My thinking is that the brass (or copper) acts as a thermal capacitor due to higher density than Al. Also since the electrical insulating mica thermal resistance is higher than transistor tab to metal, by using multiple mica pads under the block you increase the surface area of the mica insulation reducing the thermal resistance.
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