Sorting out room acoustics

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Doug

The Floyd Toole in the Harman white papers http://www.harman.com/wp/index.jsp?articleId=122 on room acoustics has some interesting things to say about plasterboard walls. Yes - they aren't stiff to bass frequencies, however he says that this helps in reducing standing wave problems at low frequencies.

BTW CARA will model wall damping but it does increase the calculation times. With the package you can play around with room modification ideas to see what kind of effect they will have before investing time and money in the physical experiments.

Mick
 
Room modes

>>I don't really want to get into the whole room tuning thing, but my bass quality just isn't good enough at high volumes, and I absolutely cannot afford to start a new speaker project at this moment in time. EQ is expensive too, and I hate the thought of putting extra things in the path.<<

Simon;

My theory is, is that if your system is already straining at high volumes, more EQ only strains it more :) ie: amps and speakers
:( We have to live with it till we can afford a better system:bawling:

Congratulations on finding the site that had the room mode calculator and thanks for the link.:D

You mentioned " breeze blocks ". What are breeze blocks. Has to be a British term that we call by another name.

Doug
 
I guess I answered my own question LOL.
hehe, well done ;)

Anyone else heard of doing this?
No, but I kinda doubt it would bring any real gains. Don't think I'll take my parents old garage walls apart to find out either :xeye:

...I read that .PDF paper from Harman yesterday, it's pretty dam informative, and fun to read. I urge anyone who wants to learn more about room modes and dealing with them to read it!!

I've never really considered the peaks and nulls of F2, 3, 4 etc. before. And with a very small sofa movement (about 5") I've given myself some added punch in the upper-mid bass that is nicely chesty. As a side effect I can have more subwoofer level now too, giving the whole sound more low-end clout, and better imaging from the new position too.

Experiment away people!!! :D


-Simon
 
Ive done wall constructed out of concrete block (breeze block?) and filled the voids with dry sand. Its a monumental pain, and even paying good attention to the normal rules for wall construction, it fails to live up to what can be done using good old drywall. If your concerned about stopping a bullet, perhaps its a good start, if you want to build a wall with good isolation, I would recommend sticking with staggered studs and sheet rock.

The Decware forum looks very interesting; I hope to spend a fair amount of time lurking there too.

Ive been wondering if we have been getting close to critical mass for a DIYaudio acoustics form.
 
I just spent some time at the Decware site.

Before getting too involved in that site I would recommend anyone with a deep interest in acoustics (deep enough to buy a few books) to look into a used copy of "Acoustics" by Leo Beranek.

Another great book worth knowing is "Handbook of Architectural Acoustics and Noise Control: A Manual for Architects and Engineers" by Michael Rettinger

I recently bought a copy of Beraneks book, used, at Amazon for a good price and in great shape.

If you are interested in the QRD diffuser stuff that they talk about on the Decware sites, check out the white papers at RPG acoustics.

Peter D'Antonio pioneered the use of QRD technology and Maxwell’s equations for building diffusers. They (RPG) have invested significant rescources in developing technologies for architectual acoustics and enhancing the science of acoustics. I notice Decware also has a QRD product. Ive used the RPG product and can attest to the company’s excellent product quality and customer service.

D'Antponio has a great reading list on the RPG site here:
http://www.rpginc.com/news/reading.htm

I also have a copy of Everst's book by prefer the Beranek and Rettinger books.
 
I am using cara for finding a good starting point when i was to place my speakers in a new listning room. cara has also been must helpfull in determining the amounts of sound absorbers that was needed in order to get the right Rt60 in the room. However finetuning is done by trial and error in the room with music.

But in short i helped me reach a good result in a shorter time
 
SimontY said:

lol - ask a silly question, get a silly answer, fair enuf! ;)

More seriously though, taking some of the white polyester damping crap out of my speakers and using several progressively shorter layers of rubbery carpet underlay - tried just yesterday - has made them lighter and brighter, this partly helps make up for the dead room effect.

-Simon

Not a silly question, I think. But the answer should be close at hand: Add reflective panels. Use mirrors first, to figure out good positions, and replace them with solid, even materials.
 
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