Hi
This is my first thread as a registered user but I have frequently visited the diyaudio forum because the members technical knowledge and informative discussions and now I decided to get some help if it's possible because I need desperately repair an Sony TA-N80ES
The short story is that I'm began to hear some low audible hummm or buzzz from my speakers and I decided to find the problem which lead to that I recaped the amp entirely and in an stupid movement I shorted the driver and output transistors.
The amp wasn't powered but it had spare voltage in the main caps which I didn't drained and after the spark the damage was done. To do thing worst I powered ( the most stupid thing I admit ) the amp and I shortened some more transistors ( and one zener diode ) on the input board.
Now, I'm not electrician or engineer but a simple audiophile amateur which knows some basics on electrical components as well can handle a multimeter and solder iron but now I need desperately some help with this because my know how is not really enough to resort this
The following components I need to replace and I bought some equivalent parts which follows :
2SC3856/2SA1492A ( the original outputs on the right chanel) for 2STC5242/2STA1962 ( these are from STMICROELECTRONICS )
2SC3298A/2SA1306A ( driver transistors ) for MJE15030/MJE15031
The transistors from the input board ( transistor board ) are 2SA1383 and 2SA1360. I couldn't find equivalent replacement but I find originals on Ebay and I bought them (hopefully these are not fakes )
But my biggest problem is that HZ3LL zener diode which I don't know exactly what it doing and whit which replacement part to replace it because it doesn't manufactures anymore.
The D362= HZ3LL(A Grade ) zener diode (HZ3LL - Silicon Epitaxial Planar Zener Diode for Hard Knee Low Noise - Hitachi Semiconductor )
Features
• Vz-Iz characteristics are semi logarithmic linear from IZ = 1nA to 1mA and have sharper breakdown knees in a low current region, and also lower VZ temperature coefficients.
• Low dynamic impedance and low noise in the low current region (approximately 1/10 lower than the current zeners).
the Q362= 2SA1383
the Q462= 2SA1360
Here is some pictures which I presume would be helpful
I really would appreciate any help with these because I really would love to get back my lovely TA-N80ES to life again
This is my first thread as a registered user but I have frequently visited the diyaudio forum because the members technical knowledge and informative discussions and now I decided to get some help if it's possible because I need desperately repair an Sony TA-N80ES
The short story is that I'm began to hear some low audible hummm or buzzz from my speakers and I decided to find the problem which lead to that I recaped the amp entirely and in an stupid movement I shorted the driver and output transistors.
The amp wasn't powered but it had spare voltage in the main caps which I didn't drained and after the spark the damage was done. To do thing worst I powered ( the most stupid thing I admit ) the amp and I shortened some more transistors ( and one zener diode ) on the input board.
Now, I'm not electrician or engineer but a simple audiophile amateur which knows some basics on electrical components as well can handle a multimeter and solder iron but now I need desperately some help with this because my know how is not really enough to resort this
The following components I need to replace and I bought some equivalent parts which follows :
2SC3856/2SA1492A ( the original outputs on the right chanel) for 2STC5242/2STA1962 ( these are from STMICROELECTRONICS )
2SC3298A/2SA1306A ( driver transistors ) for MJE15030/MJE15031
The transistors from the input board ( transistor board ) are 2SA1383 and 2SA1360. I couldn't find equivalent replacement but I find originals on Ebay and I bought them (hopefully these are not fakes )
But my biggest problem is that HZ3LL zener diode which I don't know exactly what it doing and whit which replacement part to replace it because it doesn't manufactures anymore.
The D362= HZ3LL(A Grade ) zener diode (HZ3LL - Silicon Epitaxial Planar Zener Diode for Hard Knee Low Noise - Hitachi Semiconductor )
Features
• Vz-Iz characteristics are semi logarithmic linear from IZ = 1nA to 1mA and have sharper breakdown knees in a low current region, and also lower VZ temperature coefficients.
• Low dynamic impedance and low noise in the low current region (approximately 1/10 lower than the current zeners).
the Q362= 2SA1383
the Q462= 2SA1360
Here is some pictures which I presume would be helpful
I really would appreciate any help with these because I really would love to get back my lovely TA-N80ES to life again
It looks like it forms part of a protection circuit. I think a Bzx55c2v7 should work fine here. You may want to replace D361 with the same type so it is consistent.
You should also check the fusible resistors around those parts - indicated by those resistor-fuse symbols in the schematic. They may well have opened. Really, you should replace them with equivalent fusible resistors, but ordinary resistors will also work.
You should also check the fusible resistors around those parts - indicated by those resistor-fuse symbols in the schematic. They may well have opened. Really, you should replace them with equivalent fusible resistors, but ordinary resistors will also work.
Thank you sir, what do you think about the replacement transistors I chosed, are they good/suitable or I should chose better ones ?
Do you know if exist equivalent replacement newer transistors for the 2SA1383,1360 ?
Hi,
Did you manage to get your amp working with these transistors 2STC5242/2STA1962 ?
I can see that you modded the main A board with 2x Mundorf caps. Did you notice any difference in bass with these caps?
Thanks,
Paul
Did you manage to get your amp working with these transistors 2STC5242/2STA1962 ?
I can see that you modded the main A board with 2x Mundorf caps. Did you notice any difference in bass with these caps?
Thanks,
Paul
Hi guys
I just wana to update that I successfully repaired my Sony TA-N80ES with your help and a bunch of replacement parts and a plenty of patience. It was time consuming and the parts wasn't easy to scatter but ind the end the waiting payed off and my amp working again 😀
The faulty parts where :
UPA68HA UPA68 Dual N-Channel JFET
Transistor MITSUBISHI ZIP-5 2SA995
Besides these I changed the parts I mentioned in my previos posts.
One very useful and helpful thing was the old bulb tester, which I build myself, which did a very good job under the repair process.
One more time : I'am thankful for this community and the members who helped me to get back " My PRECIOUS!!!! "
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To pshdk: Yes, those transistors ( 2STC5242/2STA1962 ) are good and working beautifully 😀 Sonically they are the same but these are much easier to find and for less money !
About the Mundorfs : Yes they cut of the bass response of the amp BUT they were cumbersome to install and I didn't like the " clinical " dry sound the Mundorfs presented. I changed back the original renewed parts which gave much wider bottom !
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I just wana to update that I successfully repaired my Sony TA-N80ES with your help and a bunch of replacement parts and a plenty of patience. It was time consuming and the parts wasn't easy to scatter but ind the end the waiting payed off and my amp working again 😀
The faulty parts where :
UPA68HA UPA68 Dual N-Channel JFET
Transistor MITSUBISHI ZIP-5 2SA995
Besides these I changed the parts I mentioned in my previos posts.
One very useful and helpful thing was the old bulb tester, which I build myself, which did a very good job under the repair process.
One more time : I'am thankful for this community and the members who helped me to get back " My PRECIOUS!!!! "
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To pshdk: Yes, those transistors ( 2STC5242/2STA1962 ) are good and working beautifully 😀 Sonically they are the same but these are much easier to find and for less money !
About the Mundorfs : Yes they cut of the bass response of the amp BUT they were cumbersome to install and I didn't like the " clinical " dry sound the Mundorfs presented. I changed back the original renewed parts which gave much wider bottom !
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thats great you must be so relieved. I have got the same problem with my N80es and tried to find a place to repair it, but here in DK its 100 Euro an hour labour and it could take up to 10 hours to find the problem, so that not an option for me. Maybe you could help?
Thanks Paul
Thanks Paul
Hi Paul
I know the feeling with a broken N80ES and it was a real joy when it come to life again 🙂) and yes, I going to try to help you as much as I can and if it's not enough then we can always hope that somebody more knowledgeable from this forum can help us out 🙂)
Can you please describe exactly what's the symptoms (problems ) with your TA-N80ES and when they are occurred and how ?
Hi,
I was adjusting the bias offset, finished the right and was busy with the left when it blew. It should be 15mv, the right was fine but the left was off. I did a recap a few months ago and everything was fine and I just wanted to check again to see if it was still at 15mv.
Q362 transistor and R370 resistor keeps on blowing. Just changed it and as soon as i power it on smoke!It's on the main A board.
The main transistors are also blown in one channel.
I was thinking of replacing all the main transistors and the small ones on the heat sink. Replace all the driver resistors(white ceramic) and replace the main (A) board with a spare. I'm not sure if this would cover everything that could be wrong?? I'm not into electronics so have no idea how/what to fault find.
my email: p-s-h@hotmail.com
thanks,
Paul
I was adjusting the bias offset, finished the right and was busy with the left when it blew. It should be 15mv, the right was fine but the left was off. I did a recap a few months ago and everything was fine and I just wanted to check again to see if it was still at 15mv.
Q362 transistor and R370 resistor keeps on blowing. Just changed it and as soon as i power it on smoke!It's on the main A board.
The main transistors are also blown in one channel.
I was thinking of replacing all the main transistors and the small ones on the heat sink. Replace all the driver resistors(white ceramic) and replace the main (A) board with a spare. I'm not sure if this would cover everything that could be wrong?? I'm not into electronics so have no idea how/what to fault find.
my email: p-s-h@hotmail.com
thanks,
Paul
Great post Arador! and other members! I have three Sony N80ES * and want to replace some of the more important CAPS, and speaker relais etc.
You mentioned the problem of residual power load remaining in the amp evenghough the amp was turned off. How could someone drain this amp before starting the job of replacing the caps? And what other precautions must I take before beginning?
Cheer mate!
*) Three amps for a three channel active system: low, mid and high separated from input, then each channel separately powered and the amplified signal sent directly to the speaker conus)
You mentioned the problem of residual power load remaining in the amp evenghough the amp was turned off. How could someone drain this amp before starting the job of replacing the caps? And what other precautions must I take before beginning?
Cheer mate!
*) Three amps for a three channel active system: low, mid and high separated from input, then each channel separately powered and the amplified signal sent directly to the speaker conus)
