sony SCD5400es mod

Status
Not open for further replies.
Jump to Latest
Q

quan

Member
Joined 2007
#1
Hi guys, i would like to change the op-amps which use as iv converter and also for low pass filter. The original Op-amps are OPA2132. What would be best op-amps for the jobs ie iv converter and low pass filter.
I know the better solutions would be no op-amps at all and instead discrete circuit. What would be a better choice changing op-amps for better specs eg LMA49720? or try ZapfilterMk2? Or Any other suggestions.
 
#2
sony xa5400es

Like usual, same problem -unable to upload picture.
The DAC is 1796 DSD with balance current outputs. There are a few possibilities but i am a novice thus needing help.
Options- op-amps-change to better parts- probably min gain
zapfilterMk2-some don't like the sound of it-active and too complex
CEN/ZEN iv solutions but how do you sum the outputs to single end RCA? or just run from + signal from each chanel only.
TPA legato?
Any recommendations guys?
😕😕😕
 
#3
Also- with regarding upgrading the clock. The original crystal is going to a buffer then distributes to the other areas. Is it better to leave the original clock but disconnect to the DAC and inject the new low jitter clock to the DAC only ? or inject the new clock thru the buffer ?
Quan.
 
#7
Hi Tino , i did read thru the info. My knowledge is limited thus i am looking for ready made unit to plug in and play. I am not afraid of wielding my soldering iron but building circuit from scratch is a bit too far for me.
 
#8
Hi Quan,
I can't send you the schematic of the I/V circuit designed by Mr C.

My first suggestion to you is to use the original OpAmp based I/V
conversion and replace the IC regulator stage with Sjostrom
superregulators +-12V, sjostromaudio.com - Home ,
but you will need also a board with the diode bridge and rectifying caps
(no need for another power transformer, as I did). After that big improvement,
you can replace the I/V resistor across the OpAmp with a better quality
one and the same apply to the MKP caps.

If you want a ready to go circuit, look for the products available from Pedja
Rogic http://diy.audialonline.com/modulelab/ .

If you want to build one from scratch... try the Loesch Adagio (passive I/V,
interstage transformer and tube output stage)
http://www.fortunecity.com/rivendell/xentar/1179/projects/adagio/Adagio.html

I have used the output transformer only to build a SE output from the two SE.
If you use only the SE output of the DAC (two I/V + buffer circuit), then you
don't need the output transformer (but you will not have the balanced output).

Please, be aware of to very recent update I made in my Sony: I removed all
the magnets around the wires and the Stillpoints ERS cloth: both cut the highs.
Ciao!
Tino
 
#10
Hi Quan,

sorry for reviving this thread from years of rest but i am also modding the XA5400es.

And am looking at the Fidility C3 clock and a way of scrapping the opamps for an i/v convertion.

I have already modded everything except for these things.

Also Tino was reffering to transformer coupling, (Lundahl) will this be a good idea also?

Help would be much appreciated!
 
#11
To sum up what i have did:

Changed the PSU caps in front of voltage regulators to higher capacitance (Nichicon KG's/KX and Mundorf Mlytic)
Changed the 3.3 Voltage reg to Spower from fidelity
Changed the PSU caps after the voltage regulators to higher voltage (also Nichicon and Mlytic's)
Hifituning fuses
Changed the caps around DAC to Elna Silmic2
Used an BlackGate FK 470uF same place as Tino did.
Changed resistors in signal path to higher value Wattage and better quality (Kiwame and Shinkoh)
The cd bracket i have treated with bitumen and the whole casing in bitumen, approx 3 kg of it.
Changed the feet to better ones.
Changed the IEC and put a ground in.
Changed the clock caps to Elna Silmic 2.

Any suggestions further?
 
Last edited:
#12
quan said:
Like usual, same problem -unable to upload picture.
The DAC is 1796 DSD with balance current outputs. There are a few possibilities but i am a novice thus needing help.
Options- op-amps-change to better parts- probably min gain
zapfilterMk2-some don't like the sound of it-active and too complex
CEN/ZEN iv solutions but how do you sum the outputs to single end RCA? or just run from + signal from each chanel only.
TPA legato?
Any recommendations guys?
😕😕😕
Click to expand...

I would be interested in the CEN/ZEN also, but as you point out would first need to know how to implement it on the 1796 DSD chip and the output issue for RCA.
(I only use the RCA)
Also when changing the opamps for an I/V output sollution what part of the circuit needs to be ommited/deactivated from the Sony?

Thanks for your help and anyone else willing to help!!
 
#13
Hi , it's been a while .My modded 5400es consisted of fidelity clock, new 5volt regulator for digital circuit, zapfilter mk2 (donor from my old zhaolu dac). I did not explore any other options as time is limited and my skills is fairly limited as well. Having said that, my player is pretty good comparing to other sacd players (Krell sacd mk3 etc).
Quan
 
#14
Hi Simsalabim,

1) may I kindly ask you which of your many mods you found to have more impact on sound improvement?

2) if you look at the end of this link:
http://digilander.libero.it/agostino.manzato/audio/DIY/sony_xa5400_mod2/sony_xa5400_mod2.html
and in particular this picture:
http://digilander.libero.it/agostino.manzato/audio/DIY/sony_xa5400_mod2/oscon_dac_clock.jpg
you will see were the DAC output is taken on the Audio board (I/V OPamps) and which components are desoldered.

3) if you want to avoid OP I/V then I can suggest only Jocko-Homo discrete conversion. I don't think that pure passive I/V is feasible with this DAC.

4) after more years, I'm no more convinced that the effort to double all the circuits (4 channels) and using Lundahl transformer to convert the balanced output in SE was worth of. I would suggest to start using only I+ channels and grounding the I-, obtaining directly a SE output (if you don't really need XLO outputs).

Best!
Tino
 
#15
Hi Tino,

nice to meet you here, your detailed blog regarding the XA5400es has been a great inspiration, thank you!

1: All mods which you had done had a good impact on improvement of SQ to my ears.
My mods which i think you haven't done were in my opinion worthwhile, i have seen pictures of the Modwright mod and there you can also see that the transport has been modded to lessen resonance.

To be honest i find the transport very flimsy.

What i have done is, i have carefully dismantled the transport and on all passive non moving parts i have put leadbitumen and treated with shellac (i am a music instrument builder i always work with shellac and animal glue with a high bloom factor i.e. high elasticity and insulating properties).

Then the 'bridge' which supports the rotating part where the disc is being hold, also treated in same way.

With the transport out of the case, it is a good idea, as there is quite some space beneath, to also put leadbitumen on the area of the bottom (under the transport).

What i always try to do is to use exactly the same amount on each side of the center of the case to get an even balance, it should be able to transport resonances more easy to the feet, which i also changed.

As i build barock instruments i always incorporate these (resonance guiding) things in my diy, most people will not see any benefit and i wouldn't dare to claim there is, but it is just the way i work.

Your question, was it worthwile, is there a perceaveable difference, in my ears there has been a positive improvement in SQ by treating the transport and the whole case the way i did.

2: if i see correctly you have desoldered the resistors correct?
In this way you broke the circuit and on the output of the DAC you soldered your I/V conversion?

Off course i have read VERY carefully your detailed info many many times during the process (nice pics btw!) and understand you cannot share the Mr.C circuit, because this is the one which supplies the I/V correct?

4:
Do you mean that instead of all 4 channels it would still be a good idea to use two Lundahl transformers?

Tino, i am good with wood and have a steady hand with soldering but my knowledge of circuits is not good enough to make my own jocko homo circuit as i do not know how to implement it correctly.

Would you have any advise on a schematic with wich i could start?

Regards, Simon
 
#16
quan said:
Hi , it's been a while .My modded 5400es consisted of fidelity clock, new 5volt regulator for digital circuit, zapfilter mk2 (donor from my old zhaolu dac). I did not explore any other options as time is limited and my skills is fairly limited as well. Having said that, my player is pretty good comparing to other sacd players (Krell sacd mk3 etc).
Quan
Click to expand...

Hi Quan,

Thank you for your reply,
the fidelity 5V Spower was a very good tip, thanks!
I will go the new clock route as well and will be buying the Fidelity C3 when my budget allows, few months probably.
You pointed out that there is a buffer where the original crystal output goes through, do you or Tino have any advice for me regarding how i should implement the new clock, also in regards to whether to use that buffer or not?

Thank you again.
Regards, Simon
 
#17
simsalabim said:
Hi Tino,

nice to meet you here, your detailed blog regarding the XA5400es has been a great inspiration, thank you!

1: All mods which you had done had a good impact on improvement of SQ to my ears.
My mods which i think you haven't done were in my opinion worthwhile, i have seen pictures of the Modwright mod and there you can also see that the transport has been modded to lessen resonance.

To be honest i find the transport very flimsy.

What i have done is, i have carefully dismantled the transport and on all passive non moving parts i have put leadbitumen and treated with shellac (i am a music instrument builder i always work with shellac and animal glue with a high bloom factor i.e. high elasticity and insulating properties).

Then the 'bridge' which supports the rotating part where the disc is being hold, also treated in same way.

With the transport out of the case, it is a good idea, as there is quite some space beneath, to also put leadbitumen on the area of the bottom (under the transport).

What i always try to do is to use exactly the same amount on each side of the center of the case to get an even balance, it should be able to transport resonances more easy to the feet, which i also changed.

As i build barock instruments i always incorporate these (resonance guiding) things in my diy, most people will not see any benefit and i wouldn't dare to claim there is, but it is just the way i work.

Your question, was it worthwhile, is there a perceaveable difference, in my ears there has been a positive improvement in SQ by treating the transport and the whole case the way i did.
Click to expand...

Hi Simon!
I'm interested in your mechanical damping of the transport. I found it to be a weak part and I have already changed my first Sony transport (BTW, to find a genuine Sony part was very difficult and expensive).
Could you add some picture of your modded transport here or send me by private mail?

simsalabim said:
2: if i see correctly you have desoldered the resistors correct?
In this way you broke the circuit and on the output of the DAC you soldered your I/V conversion?

Off course i have read VERY carefully your detailed info many many times during the process (nice pics btw!) and understand you cannot share the Mr.C circuit, because this is the one which supplies the I/V correct?

4:
Do you mean that instead of all 4 channels it would still be a good idea to use two Lundahl transformers?
Click to expand...

No, I said that, instead of building 4 channels (R+ R- L+ L-) and use the Lundahl transformers to convert this balanced signal in SE, I suggest you to start with only 2 channels (R+ and L+), grounding the other two DAC outputs and you will already have a SE signal, without the need of an output transformer.


simsalabim said:
Tino, i am good with wood and have a steady hand with soldering but my knowledge of circuits is not good enough to make my own jocko homo circuit as i do not know how to implement it correctly.

Would you have any advise on a schematic with wich i could start?

Regards, Simon
Click to expand...

I wrote "jocko-homo i/v" in google images and the first link is this one:
http://www.binatech.se/hem/Amps/i_v.jpg
from this web site:
First DIY DAC, TDA1541A Test with OP vs discrete vs.Tube

To me it seems quite a good starting point, but you need dual power supply and Q1 and Q2 must be well matched and thermally coupled.
If the output is followed by a Borberly FET buffer, then the output cap could be decreased to much lower values (e.g. 0.47uF if the buffer input impedance is of at least 0.5MOhm), so it could be of high quality.
Here is an example of the Borberly FET buffer:
http://www.q-audio.com/images/buffer.jpg
R1 could be the output cap and R2 could be slightly higher (0.47M). If the two FET are well matched then R3=R4. I would use FET which can be biased at higher currents, so that R4 could be lower than 220 Ohm, to have a low output impedance.

Hope it helps, ciao!
Tino
 
#18
#19
Hi Tino, thanks!

appreciated, i hope i can start in a couple of weeks as i am busy now, will report back and hopefully get some support again! thanks!

and btw i will send you some pics of the casing per PM but please give me a few days, again quite busy at the moment, Gracias and ciao!
Simon
 
#20
Tino_diy said:
Hi again, I just forgot to mention that R1 on this link http://www.binatech.se/hem/Amps/i_v.jpg can be moved before the C1 cap and set to produce the desired output voltage swing. 1kOhm should be a good starting point.
Instead, R1 on this scheme http://www.q-audio.com/images/buffer.jpg can be omitted (it is C1~0.47uF) and R2 can be around 0.5MOhm.

Hope it helps, ciao!
Tino
Click to expand...

Hi Tino,

To sum up:

i can delete R1 2K49 Ohm (which in the schematic goes to ground if i am correct?)
and if i understand correctly, i need to put a resistor in the circuit just before C1 of 1K Ohm and then i can make C1 a nice film cap in Mundorf S/G in oil for instance for the output, so the cap will be the last part in the circuit going to the FET buffer.

Do i understand correctly that for each channel i need to make this arrangement?
So the R+ and L+ from the DAC each go to their own Jocko homo I/V circuit, then through the FET circuit and then connected to the single ended output (RCA) and then make a wire going from the DAC L- and R- to ground.

Is this correct?

Many thanks for your expertise!
Ciao, Simon
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom