Sony SA-W303 Subwoofer

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and ladies and gentlemen!...finally being able to get the Front off...the 6.5" woofer hiding behind the Grille is Revealed....the Construction isnt too bad,Nice Paper Cone and Dustcap with an Equally Nice Rubber Surround..the Frame seems very Sturdy...but what is up with that Shielding?!..hasnt sony heard of Sheilding Cups?!
 

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finally being able to get the Front off
How did you get the grill off? I have the Sony SA-WMS230 here in my office.
6 3/8" woofer, 50w RMS, 8 ohms, 20-150hz, 0.8% THD, 8 1/8" x 15 1/4" x 15 1/4" Advanced SAW Type enclosure.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
How did you get the grill off? I have the Sony SA-WMS230 here in my office.
6 3/8" woofer, 50w RMS, 8 ohms, 20-150hz, 0.8% THD, 8 1/8" x 15 1/4" x 15 1/4" Advanced SAW Type enclosure.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Well...your Subwoofer is abit Diffrently Constructed than mine...on my Sub...there was a Place near the Controls,where i could Wedge a Screwdriver between the Grille and the Front Plastic Panel...getting off the Grille didnt go 100 Precent Smooth...as the Grille had Pegs holding it to the Front Plastic Panel,some of these Pegs were glued in the matching holes,so as i pried it off the Pegs Broke off...this isnt such a bad thing..as the grille still holds on well enough without these pegs....the wooden enclosure also had Recessed holes...and these mated with the Pegs on the Plastic Front....two screws hold the Plastic Panel onto the actual Enclosure...if your sub is like mine...the Port is in two Pieces...the Main Section of the Port is a Rectangular Flared tube that is secured to the Enclosure with Four Screws,and the other Part is Molded on the Front Plastic Panel....while removing the Grille i did Scuff up the Plastic Panel Visably...so see if you can Wedge the Grille off...if you want to attempt this prepare to make the sub look a little less attractive.😉

Check out my Pic...and you can see the Area where near the controls..thats where i started at getting the grille off.

and also...Nice Sub..i like yours..it looks nice...probably a little more Output than mine.
 

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Neat - I like the corner loading to create that extra low end.
Yeah, it out pounds our bedroom's sub. I got the Sony HT-CT100 for x-mas last year from my father.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
I think that our Sony subs are BP2's...dual reflex bandpass designs. The 2 X-4952-603-1 PANEL ASSY, FRONT (BLACK) or 2 X-4953-559-1 PANEL ASSY, FRONT (SILVER) form the front ported enclosure. What looks like a grill is actually the port(s). What do you guys think?
 
It doesn't look like a complex BP2 box to me.
The front chamber = the PANEL ASSY, FRONT, if it forms an enclosure infront of the speaker plate.
The front port = the grill holes.
The rear chamber = the CABINET ASSY, SPEAKER.
The rear port = the not supplied port.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


hmmmm....mine is Just a bass Reflex Box...the Plastic Part is Basically for cosmetics mostly...and to form the Front 1/4 of the Port,housing the Control board too.

The Amp seems to cut out abit on the lower Frequencies.

is this an intentional filter?
 
It would certainly help. Any frequencies down there would use excursion, but to little benefit, as the cabinet would be unloaded and therefore have little output. Most PA ported subs have very steep HP filters on the subs, to stop extra excursion.
 
Put a 50Hz sine through it (or better yet, a play it at tuning frequency to avoid excursion problems) at full power. Measure the voltage across the speaker, and measure it's impedance. From there, you can work out power.

I've found 50W to be quite loud through my sub, so I don't understand why some people need kilowatts to get their subs working properly.
 
..............I don't understand why some people need kilowatts to get their subs working properly.

That is probably because in an effort to go as low as possible they trade off sensitivity. While it looks good on paper and can flap pants at very low frequencies it certainly wouldn't contribute much at usual audio frequencies we find in normal music. So where a normal 200 watt (!) amp might do , this extended LF capability system might need another 10dB of power or 2KW !😱
 
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