Some serious Aleph Ono pr0n

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Bakmeel said:
Today, I went to my hifi dealer for a listening session to compare my Ono with a Pro-Ject Black Cube (€ 600,- MM/MC phono pre).
The turntable used was a Pro-Ject 1.2 with a Surniko Oister MM element. The rest of the set was a NAD 3020 amplifier, and B&W Nautilus 802 speakers.

...
Best,
Bouke

Maybe you mean a Project Phono Box SE?

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

But thats only $250

Or a Lehmann Black Cube??
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

€400-600 depending on ps

The Ono should be much better than both I would presume. Maybe it just needs a little more time to get settled
 
ONO Sound

Bakmeel said:
In general, I am pleased with the Ono's performance, but not satisfied. Compared to the Black Cube, the Ono featured a rich and firm bass, superior channel separation and a very smooth and easy sound. Contrary to that, the tonal balance was totally off the scale. Really, really warm... more muffled I could say. Highs and mids were filtered off far too much.

Best,
Bouke

Bouke,
I think that the suggestions already posted are a good starting place. You definitely should verify that the RIAA eq is correct if you have the facilities. Its pretty easy to build an accurate inverse RIAA network. Jim Hagerman of Hagtech sells a little kit and also provides documentation online should you want to wire something up on a piece of perf board. Take a look here:
http://www.vacutrace.com/pdf/riaamanual.pdf
and here: http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/riaa.pdf

If the RIAA curve is correct, then I'd start looking at the various coupling caps. In your message, you implied that you were using the MM input, so the only cap should be the output cap. Peter Daniel mentioned on this board that you can eliminate the output cap (C7) by adjustment of resistor R4 (4.02K). Replace it with a cermet 20 turn pot and you can tune in zero offset voltage and get rid of the cap.

If you're using the MC input, then you need to evaluate the various coupling caps there as well. This is a bit more difficult and you can't entirely eliminate the cap coupling. I did play around a bit with this on my ONO and made some modifications which I believe improved the highs. I wrote about it here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27318

Good luck.
---Gary
 
Run in a little longer

Mine is a Pearl. It took several days use for the sound to develop.
The fets drift a little when first used. Once settled in, the sound should improve.
The Pearl uses a dc blocking cap on the output. The Ono does not. The blocking cap would be where I would first look in a Pearl.
Love your power supply. This is one area where DIY can go beyond the commercial offerings. I do not think you can have too much in one.
Good luck, hope this unit is a keeper.

George
 
Bouke,

Lacking an inverse RIAA source you can still check your
equalization with a signal generator (or I suppose another
source of test tones with proper attenuation). Convert
changes in output voltage with frequency to dB, e.g. as
a ratio with 1 kHz. RIAA curves are available online, or
use the iRIAA curve in the Hagerman manual from GaryB's
excellent post and change the signs. While I agree with
previous posts regarding output caps (ditched mine) and
warmup, what you describe doesn't sound very subtle,
which is why I would check the RIAA net first.

Ed
 
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