Some charlize/smps questions

[Code]

Today i received a Charlize, I have it set up with the SMPS PSU from Decibel Dungeon

My first query is about the 10000uF capacitor on the PSU outputs. I have fitted a cheap 'Jamicon' cap as its all I have 🙁. Is this capacitor necessary? And would there be a noticeable improvement from using a higher quality Panasonic for example?

The second problem I have is with the 10 watt 10 ohm wire wound resister on the 5v rail. It is getting very hot, too hot to touch.. is it ok?

Finally, I'm trying to decide weather to change the input caps tonite, or to wait until it is fully 'burnt' in. The caps are 2.2uf Obligatto.

Thank You 🙂

 

[Trebla]

The Jamicon should be fine for this purpose. I see no reason to do away with it.

You would be better with a aluminium clad resistor with built in heatsink. I use 25w with no problems.

I would leave the input caps till the amp is fully run in. Otherwise you will never know if the big Obbs are an improvement or not.

http://www.rapidelectronics.co.uk/r...CAT_CODE=30377&STK_PROD_CODE=M60307&XPAGENO=1

 

[Code]

ahhh they look excellent 😀 thanks alot.

Is the 10k cap actually needed? If not i'll give it a listen without.

 

[Code]

**** sake.

The power supply was connected the wrong way around on my charlize.

Is it repairable?

 

[sovadk]

I'm very sorry for you, that's not fun and I can't answer your quenstion either. I have on for you though. There's some 50 posts covering topics about the Charlize. Couldn't you post about your wiring there?

 

[Code]

Sorry about that 🙁

I already have replacement chips, i just need to know if thats all that should have died. And if it is i will take it to a profesional 🙂

 

[anatech]

Hi Code,
How do your caps look? I'd worry about those, but being unfamiliar with that amp design I will defer to an expert if one pops up.

I don't see a problem with posting about a blown up amp kit. A straight cap question may have been covered before in another thread. The search function is in the middle of the top right bar of buttons.

-Chris

 

[Code]

there is no visible scorch marks or leaking, everything looks as normal.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

 

[Netlist]

I admit I'm too lasy to search but do you have a schematic or URL that points to it?

/Hugo

 

[Code]

http://www.diyparadise.com/charlize.html

🙂

 

[Netlist]

Couldn't find the schematic but I guess its not available.

Well, you need the experts here or the manufacturer I'm afraid.

/Hugo

 

[Code]

🙁 im certain it used to be avaliable!! maybe i can dig up a copy

 

[vt4c]

Just remove the Tripath chip first. Measure the speaker output for short. If this has not happened, there is a high posibility that only the Tripath chip is burnt. Replace it and see if everything works fine. 🙂

 

[Nuuk]

Try replacing all the electrolytic caps first (six if memory serves me well). You may well find that Charlize will sing again!

 

[Fin]

Nuuk.....your help is required over here........
SMPS discussion

 

[Code]

Arhh I the caps are ok, I have already taken it to a specialist to have the chip swapped.

Is there any way to test capacitors?

Which are the electrolytic types? Not my Obligatos I hope 🙁

 

[Code]

Just plugged it in after the repair, no positive improvement 🙁

The only change, is that now both tweeters make a ticking noise while the amp is powered up.

Has anyone experienced a similar fault?

edit: The output terminals register as shorted with my multimeter, i assume this must be a problem?

searching suggests the ticking could be the digital ground loop.

edit number 2:

woooowwow i really am a bit of a dumbarse..

/realises the plate holding the connectors is a conductor...
ahh

 

[Code]

😀😀
wow this spanks the Cambridge Audio a1mk3 Hard!

seems as if this sony mp3 player has a better dac than my xfi soundcard :| lame..

 

[vt4c]

Just plugged it in after the repair, no positive improvement 🙁

The only change, is that now both tweeters make a ticking noise while the amp is powered up.

Has anyone experienced a similar fault?

edit: The output terminals register as shorted with my multimeter, i assume this must be a problem?

searching suggests the ticking could be the digital ground loop.

/realises the plate holding the connectors is a conductor...
ahh

If the output terminals are shorted, then, the SMD diodes might be faulty too. ...Start removing the diode one by one to check for short.