I have 2 Boss Audio Nx12d 12" Onyx Series hooked up in a bandpass box with a logic 1500 watt amp. I want to add 2 more subs.
My set-up as is:
2 Boss Audio Nx12d 12" Onyx Series 2500 max 1250 RMS DVC
Logic 1500 watt max
4 farad cap
4 gauge wire
I was thinking of upgrading my amp to 3000 watts and purchasing 2 more subs
BOSS CX124DVC 12" 3000W or BOSS Audio PHANTOM P126DVC 12" 4600 Watt Pair Subwoofers Dual 4-Ohm.
Amp wanted:Boss Audio Armor AR3000.2 3000 Watt 2-Channel Car Audio Class A/B Amplifier Amp or BOSS AUDIO Phantom PH2.1500 3000 Watt 2-Channel Car Amplifier
Would I have to upgrade anything like my battery or would I still be able to run on my cap? Is this a good set-up to run 4 subs on?
My set-up as is:
2 Boss Audio Nx12d 12" Onyx Series 2500 max 1250 RMS DVC
Logic 1500 watt max
4 farad cap
4 gauge wire
I was thinking of upgrading my amp to 3000 watts and purchasing 2 more subs
BOSS CX124DVC 12" 3000W or BOSS Audio PHANTOM P126DVC 12" 4600 Watt Pair Subwoofers Dual 4-Ohm.
Amp wanted:Boss Audio Armor AR3000.2 3000 Watt 2-Channel Car Audio Class A/B Amplifier Amp or BOSS AUDIO Phantom PH2.1500 3000 Watt 2-Channel Car Amplifier
Would I have to upgrade anything like my battery or would I still be able to run on my cap? Is this a good set-up to run 4 subs on?
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Wow....... Nobody.... Ok I guess my referral to the best audio forum was a bust. I'll go elsewhere..
It's difficult for people to offer suggestions for equipment that they've never used. I doubt that anyone here has used most of that equipment.
This isn't really about audio equipment. This is about wanting to upgrade to a 3000 watt amp and wondering if I would have to upgrade my battery or alternator or could I continue running on my 4 farad cap.... Since my stock battery and alternator can handle my 1500 watt just fine..
My experience with audio forums everyone always asks what you have and what you want so I always list it..
1500 to 3000 is only 3 DB's more power and likely less audibly at the speaker. Nice head room but barely noticeable in the end run in most cases. It sort of depends on the brand of amp and what not for any usable difference.
It will double your power draw off your system so twice the current loading on a stock charging system sounds like you will need charging system upgrades to handle that IMHO. I don't know of any stock auto system made to handle loads like that except in emergency vehicles like ambulances and fire trucks etc...A true 3000 watts of power draw is huge on a 12 volt system. Just do the math, 3000 divided by 12 = 250 amperes of current draw and that is at 100% efficiency in a perfect world that really does not exist to my knowledge. So count on those numbers being vague at best until your gear is setup and used in the real world in your ride.
Your gear might work to your liking but you will probably never be able to hold a full charge on your battery with all that load without a much larger alternator.
Thank you for your compliment about out little forum here. We all try our best to be of honest help to all. But some of us are also very busy with our own lives and such so please accept our free help with our best efforts to keep up with each and every post as the best we can do.😱
It will double your power draw off your system so twice the current loading on a stock charging system sounds like you will need charging system upgrades to handle that IMHO. I don't know of any stock auto system made to handle loads like that except in emergency vehicles like ambulances and fire trucks etc...A true 3000 watts of power draw is huge on a 12 volt system. Just do the math, 3000 divided by 12 = 250 amperes of current draw and that is at 100% efficiency in a perfect world that really does not exist to my knowledge. So count on those numbers being vague at best until your gear is setup and used in the real world in your ride.
Your gear might work to your liking but you will probably never be able to hold a full charge on your battery with all that load without a much larger alternator.
Thank you for your compliment about out little forum here. We all try our best to be of honest help to all. But some of us are also very busy with our own lives and such so please accept our free help with our best efforts to keep up with each and every post as the best we can do.😱
All right, this is a kind of scary setup lol
First, you don't need a capacitor. If you are having electrical problems (i.e. not enough power, and with your wattage of amplifiers, you do need more power), you would need a high output alternator specific to your car. More often than not, capacitors are sort of a band-aid that are masking power issues in a system. In the long run, a cap is just adding more load for your alternator to charge and will eventually cause alternator problems.
Also, Boss really isn't the best audio equipment brand. It might be worth saving your money to get some nicer gear. In the past, Boss has been known to fudge their numbers so it seems like you're getting more for less, but really you're getting less for less. The 1500w and 3000w numbers are maximum wattage. What's really important is the RMS value. Most decent amplifiers will have RMS wattage values that are half the max, but in Boss's case, many times their RMS values are barely a quarter of the wattage. The amps you have may only be putting out 250-500watts is all, sadly.
If you like your setup, props to you.
As also mentioned, getting double of what you have, essentially, won't be a substantially noticeable difference. You'd be better off just upgrading your gear! 🙂 JL audio makes excellent subwoofers and paired with a JL or Rockford Fosgate amp, you'd be in great shape for some nice bass. 🙂
First, you don't need a capacitor. If you are having electrical problems (i.e. not enough power, and with your wattage of amplifiers, you do need more power), you would need a high output alternator specific to your car. More often than not, capacitors are sort of a band-aid that are masking power issues in a system. In the long run, a cap is just adding more load for your alternator to charge and will eventually cause alternator problems.
Also, Boss really isn't the best audio equipment brand. It might be worth saving your money to get some nicer gear. In the past, Boss has been known to fudge their numbers so it seems like you're getting more for less, but really you're getting less for less. The 1500w and 3000w numbers are maximum wattage. What's really important is the RMS value. Most decent amplifiers will have RMS wattage values that are half the max, but in Boss's case, many times their RMS values are barely a quarter of the wattage. The amps you have may only be putting out 250-500watts is all, sadly.
If you like your setup, props to you.
As also mentioned, getting double of what you have, essentially, won't be a substantially noticeable difference. You'd be better off just upgrading your gear! 🙂 JL audio makes excellent subwoofers and paired with a JL or Rockford Fosgate amp, you'd be in great shape for some nice bass. 🙂
If you like the way your system sounds with the money you spent, great.
You will find out if your drawing too much current as I had a dodge stratus and put a inexpensive best buy amp in it, it had four 30 amp fuses. If I hit it to hard it would shut off the car if I was just idling. Have seen other cars that would just take out the alternator, blow the diode pack.
Have fun with it.
You will find out if your drawing too much current as I had a dodge stratus and put a inexpensive best buy amp in it, it had four 30 amp fuses. If I hit it to hard it would shut off the car if I was just idling. Have seen other cars that would just take out the alternator, blow the diode pack.
Have fun with it.
i had forgot to continue with this thread a few days ago. i got real tired an went to bed, but remember researching the amp. as mentioned, only ever look at rms power (voltage they use to supply it makes a great difference, as well. i've seen 16+vdc to get rated) next, power delivery and supply is one of your main concerns. this means the alternator power and cable size in every part of the circuit. a good battery will help when you exceed that, so that you don't drop below minimum voltage in x amount of time (usually a few seconds at most) a capacitor can mask voltage drops by simply smoothing it out, so the hard change is not so transparent in your lighting, but still allows the drop. in fact, the way it absorbs ac ripple from the alternator actually can/will allow more free-flowing current from the alternator. even worse if you have a diode weakened or dead.
i looked into your amp, and remember it being about 250wrms max. first thing i would do is check into your alternator size. do what is commonly referred to as "the big 3" on the internet. i wouldn't really walk into a shop and ask for it in most places. i actually have seen someone do that.... and he didn't come out looking smart at all. what it is, is first upgrading the power delivery cables from the alternator positive, to the battery (can be via a distro/fuse holder near the battery, as long as there is still good size cable reaching both)
next, you need to have a good same size ground to the body. the factory ground is usually only a 30-50a max circuit, but sometimes is a tap from the battery to engine ground.
tird, you need to upgrade the engine(alternator) to body. this is usually just a ground strap, and the older your car is, the more likely it is damaged/missing/oxidized/etc.
if your alternator is a common 80a or close, you can get away with 4awg all the way around which is good. if your car turns over well, then chances are the factory ground from engine to battery is sufficient to keep up with the stock alternator battery maintenance, but replacing it is good measure.
in summary, the big 3:
1: battery+ to alternator main positive.
2: battery (-) to good body ground
3: engine/alternator ground to good body ground
4: optional battery(-) to engine alternator ground
okay, time to address the battery. you don't necessarily need to upgrade more than a good standard stock battery, but you do need to make sure it is in good condition. a rule of thumb i have is 10-12x the max current of the amp in cca rating will suffice for standard batteries. agms can have a better pulse drain rating than this rule would indicate.
now, i would put off upgrading the number of subs and look into a better amp. 800-1000wrms should run on most stock alternators and batteries, and as high as 1200 to <1500rms range on a few. also, 800-1000rms in peaks are the limit of 4awg power cable.
okay, now that you have all that taken care of, you can choose a power-plant. i'm guessing you want to stay in the 800-1krms bracket, so you don't need to go to the next level of electrical. there are many that fir that bill, and are pretty close in price to the one you already have. a few quick pointers on buying an amp:
look at rms, as mentioned.
look at ratings at different ohm loads. you want to match the power at the load you can wire to. otherwise, you could end up with about half the power going to them, or too low to run the amp without failure.
i looked into your amp, and remember it being about 250wrms max. first thing i would do is check into your alternator size. do what is commonly referred to as "the big 3" on the internet. i wouldn't really walk into a shop and ask for it in most places. i actually have seen someone do that.... and he didn't come out looking smart at all. what it is, is first upgrading the power delivery cables from the alternator positive, to the battery (can be via a distro/fuse holder near the battery, as long as there is still good size cable reaching both)
next, you need to have a good same size ground to the body. the factory ground is usually only a 30-50a max circuit, but sometimes is a tap from the battery to engine ground.
tird, you need to upgrade the engine(alternator) to body. this is usually just a ground strap, and the older your car is, the more likely it is damaged/missing/oxidized/etc.
if your alternator is a common 80a or close, you can get away with 4awg all the way around which is good. if your car turns over well, then chances are the factory ground from engine to battery is sufficient to keep up with the stock alternator battery maintenance, but replacing it is good measure.
in summary, the big 3:
1: battery+ to alternator main positive.
2: battery (-) to good body ground
3: engine/alternator ground to good body ground
4: optional battery(-) to engine alternator ground
okay, time to address the battery. you don't necessarily need to upgrade more than a good standard stock battery, but you do need to make sure it is in good condition. a rule of thumb i have is 10-12x the max current of the amp in cca rating will suffice for standard batteries. agms can have a better pulse drain rating than this rule would indicate.
now, i would put off upgrading the number of subs and look into a better amp. 800-1000wrms should run on most stock alternators and batteries, and as high as 1200 to <1500rms range on a few. also, 800-1000rms in peaks are the limit of 4awg power cable.
okay, now that you have all that taken care of, you can choose a power-plant. i'm guessing you want to stay in the 800-1krms bracket, so you don't need to go to the next level of electrical. there are many that fir that bill, and are pretty close in price to the one you already have. a few quick pointers on buying an amp:
look at rms, as mentioned.
look at ratings at different ohm loads. you want to match the power at the load you can wire to. otherwise, you could end up with about half the power going to them, or too low to run the amp without failure.
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