Perhaps... Maybe @goodguys could make that request by clicking the 'report' button.
Another option for de-soldering is to use a solder alloy with a very low melting point. Mop up as much original solder with the de-soldering pump (aka solder sucker) or solder wick, add the low melting point solder, mop that up. The low melting point allows the solder sucker to better remove the solder, thereby making the component easier to remove. Once the component is out, "flush" the solder joint a few times with the alloy you intend to use for soldering the new component with by adding solder and mopping it up. Then solder in the replacement component.
I do realize that OP asked for a de-soldering STATION. I'm just pointing out that there are other options that may be more attractive given OP's limited budget of GBP 100. I've never seen the need for a de-soldering station, but I also don't perform circuit repairs for a living. Having a de-soldering station would certainly be convenient at times, but it's a lot of money to pay for something that'd be convenient a few times a year. But that's me.
Tom
Another option for de-soldering is to use a solder alloy with a very low melting point. Mop up as much original solder with the de-soldering pump (aka solder sucker) or solder wick, add the low melting point solder, mop that up. The low melting point allows the solder sucker to better remove the solder, thereby making the component easier to remove. Once the component is out, "flush" the solder joint a few times with the alloy you intend to use for soldering the new component with by adding solder and mopping it up. Then solder in the replacement component.
I do realize that OP asked for a de-soldering STATION. I'm just pointing out that there are other options that may be more attractive given OP's limited budget of GBP 100. I've never seen the need for a de-soldering station, but I also don't perform circuit repairs for a living. Having a de-soldering station would certainly be convenient at times, but it's a lot of money to pay for something that'd be convenient a few times a year. But that's me.
Tom
I have never needed one yet but it depends on what you are doing, if your are a ecap changer, working for $, it probably would pay for itself, so why cheap out, get something of quality. I know of one part changer that uses a Hakko fr-301, said that he needed to change the heater element but continues to use it.
For plated through holes desoldering stations are nice especially if you have thermal connections to planes
For plated through holes desoldering stations are nice especially if you have thermal connections to planes
I have the cheap one mentioned earlier. I don't use it very often, but it's quick and very effective, particularly when dealing with components I might want to reuse or ICs or headers that're really hard to remove with braid and pump. I didn't think £85 was too much for the convenience, speed and opportunity it offers.
Well the duratool D00672 came through, i paid extra for next day delivery but it took 3 days. I've only read the instruction manual so far but it talks a lot about the unit clogging, to keep shoving the needles into the gun nozzle regularly . Can you please expand on this or any other helpfull tips you may have to assist with use or maintanence.
Have been searching around and people are saying not to lay the board down as gravity works against you, to keep the board vertical or possibly come from underneath, same could be applied to a manual hand solder sucker.
Also to keep the gun trigger pressed for a few seconds after lifting from the board to make sure the waste solder is sucked into the glass chamber rather than getting trapped in the gun nozzle.
Thanks!
Have been searching around and people are saying not to lay the board down as gravity works against you, to keep the board vertical or possibly come from underneath, same could be applied to a manual hand solder sucker.
Also to keep the gun trigger pressed for a few seconds after lifting from the board to make sure the waste solder is sucked into the glass chamber rather than getting trapped in the gun nozzle.
Thanks!
My experience is that there's plenty of suction and working on a horizontal board is fine. So far at least I've just used whatever orientation was convenient to access the solder pad and get the nozzle perpendicular to the board.
To date I've not left the nozzle in contact with the board any longer than I absolutely needed to and the nozzle has stayed clear and the pad and hole are clean, the component just lifts clear.
I'd get some practice removing and inserting the glass tube. It's easier to take out than to put in. I found removing the front first and then inserting the back first worked best for me. YMMV.
To date I've not left the nozzle in contact with the board any longer than I absolutely needed to and the nozzle has stayed clear and the pad and hole are clean, the component just lifts clear.
I'd get some practice removing and inserting the glass tube. It's easier to take out than to put in. I found removing the front first and then inserting the back first worked best for me. YMMV.
Do you think it's worthwhile putting a drop of flux onto the solder pad to speed up the solder removal process, as you said to keep contact with the pad to a minimum
I've not bothered so far. But OTOH I don't see it's going to hurt because I'm assuming the pump seals will handle the fumes. Though, that said, the case fan's going to push them into your workroom at speed, so ventilate.
Thing is to find something you don't mind wrecking to practice on. But almost everyone here has stuff lurking in a cupboard.
Thing is to find something you don't mind wrecking to practice on. But almost everyone here has stuff lurking in a cupboard.
Thanks! What tempertaure do you use for removing the general small caps and resistors on a board
ATM I've got mine set to 300, I get a quick melt and suck and so far at least components don't get any hotter to touch than they would when I was soldering them.
But it'll depend on the type of solder you're removing. I don't see why you'd need a higher temp than you needed to solder the component.
But I've not had to desolder anything that might be sensitive to thermal shock. I really ought to experiment with lower temperatures....
But it'll depend on the type of solder you're removing. I don't see why you'd need a higher temp than you needed to solder the component.
But I've not had to desolder anything that might be sensitive to thermal shock. I really ought to experiment with lower temperatures....
Thanks! Do you know what size tips the duratool is shipped with, i'm having difficulty making contact with the solder, i have to go in at a sharp angle to meet the tip with the small blob of solder, need a smaller tip
The thread title is "Solder" and the first post is "DeSolder". So I can understand how Tom could miss it.
Definitely overkill, but great price at $149
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/and-what-did-we-buy-today.143603/post-7568276