You better check all the AC wiring from Socket to Nuclear Plant using compression for their connections. Oh...I forgot, all that stuff behind the walls is perfect. Anyway one good DeOxit joint fixes all the connections that are in series with it ?
Being too late to edit: a Faston with the trademarked crimp tool might do every bit as well as a solder cup push-pull, but that's not usually in our tool bags or parts bins. Every piece of commercial gear I've opened with EICs has had them soldered, as well. Since our need for any given connector is so variable, it makes more sense to learn how to solder them, than to buy a crimp tool we might only use 10 times.
There are fastons and fastons.... and there are IEC plugs and IEC plugs
The best I know are those used on cloth irons and on electrical heaters, they usually are shiny and have a "sort of spring" in the middle. The is a tiny hole on the connector spades for it if you didn't notice.
I've replaced many on PA amplifier rails and loudspeakers...but on IEC plugs I use solder. Take for example Neutrik stuff, I never melted one, and sometimes I solder two twisted 2.5 mm2 wires on them.
Oh... and my 1000VA UPS batteries used them but I never believed they could handle 50A so I soldered them also. The problem is nowadays that stuff comes from China...
The best I know are those used on cloth irons and on electrical heaters, they usually are shiny and have a "sort of spring" in the middle. The is a tiny hole on the connector spades for it if you didn't notice.
I've replaced many on PA amplifier rails and loudspeakers...but on IEC plugs I use solder. Take for example Neutrik stuff, I never melted one, and sometimes I solder two twisted 2.5 mm2 wires on them.
Oh... and my 1000VA UPS batteries used them but I never believed they could handle 50A so I soldered them also. The problem is nowadays that stuff comes from China...
and knowing that it came from China, then you have to make extra efforts...
i have tried both soldered and quick connects, never had problems...
i have tried both soldered and quick connects, never had problems...
Those are not critical for accurate and smooth high fidelity, audio reproduction of music.
Not really... its just one area that requires spring cleaning. What also improves it a step further, is using an audio silver contact enhancer like SilClear. That works wonders for power cords.
Better yet. You can do that for yourself. Take an audio component that has been used for a while. Open it up, and de-oxidized all the contact connectors you see inside with DeoxIT. Especially at the IEC socket. Then do it for all your components in the chain that are not new. Listen.
You should hear the details for yourself.
DeoxIT is not just for interconnects and speaker terminals. It removes the oxidation build up where there are connectors that are not hard wired. If I hardwired the AC inputs of the IEC socket there will be no more need open up the unit to do that any more, and it would create a solid gapless connection.
Now if you never cleaned up the connections and depended solely on the crimped spades? Sure... the component could keep playing forever. But, it will not sound its best with oxidation built up on the contact points. All the uses for the crimping that was mentioned had nothing to do with critical listening to audio. Those components were only needing to receive power. Oxidation will not prevent that from happening.
i have some experience with speaker jacks using banana plugs, there were issues when the plugs become loose, same with rca connectors, i use metal polish, and fray the leaves of the banana plugs to make them fit tight...
but with spade lugs and quick connects, none so far, and i do not expect to find issues with time, i also use shrink tubings over them to make them airtight...
but with spade lugs and quick connects, none so far, and i do not expect to find issues with time, i also use shrink tubings over them to make them airtight...
Some of what they are used for has to be even more sensitive than is needed for quality audio signal transfers.
But, they are often using connectors that are $50 or more each when bought by the thousands, and are assembled with exactly the specified tools. If you were to decide to go with one maker's series 100%, like Hirose or Lemo, to not spend too much, then it might be worth getting the tools. But, then, your next step will be making adapters for standard equipment 🙂.
Hmmmm... We were talking about what we find in audio equipment. That means apples and oranges were presented as an example of how good the connectors are in audio. It was disingenuous to say the least by the person who presented it... just to be contrary.. He needs some negative feedback to get his distorted view out of this thread?
Choice:. Spend $150+ for just crimping and connecting my IEC? Or, solder? 🙂 some choice!
I believe that aerospace requirements (for gas tight connections) are much more stringent than Hi-Fi. 🙄
Just think about having to send somebody up there to "check that cable that may got loose after launch"? 😀
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Then why even bring them up in this discussion? Can I use them? Afford them? No.
All I wanted to know is how to solder the socket.
And, you? You were determined to socket-to-me.
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Seems like GeneZ got some good suggestions on how to do what he wanted. Why is this discussion continuing?
Done... Just had to clean off the flux first. 😀 thanks!
Then why even bring them up in this discussion? Can I use them? Afford them? No.
All I wanted to know is how to solder the socket.
And, you? You were determined to socket-to-me.
G'day!
\\
I believe I tried to help (like others did) - see my previous comments on soldering the female connector to the tab - simple and effective.
I did not bring up the subject of gas tight crimp connections, but I tried to educate you on your apparent misconception about reliability/quality/performance requirements.
Sorry if I wasted your time (and mine) trying to help by sharing knowledge people pay me good money for.
Have fun!
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Soldering IEC socket
I have done this many times without damage to the plastic.
The first step is to remove the nickel plating from the area on the tabs that will be soldered, exposing the metal underneath that takes solder well. You can use a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel or other grinding attachment, or even a file or sandpaper to remove it manually.
I have always used a small tip in a temperature-contolled soldering station set to near maximum temperature. This seems to heat the area around the hole in the tab to solder melting temperature without overheating the part.
Before feeding the wire(s) into the hole on the tab, I slide a short length of heat shring tubing over the wire and postion it well back of the connection. The diameter of the heat shrink tubing is chosen to fit tightly around the tab once is is shrunk.
Once the connection is made, the tubing is slid over the joint and heated with a heat gun to shrink it.
The result is a professional looking connection that is permanent.
I view any crimp-on or slide-on terminals as potential points of failure that are eliminated by this process.
Just my $.02 worth.
Charles
I have done this many times without damage to the plastic.
The first step is to remove the nickel plating from the area on the tabs that will be soldered, exposing the metal underneath that takes solder well. You can use a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel or other grinding attachment, or even a file or sandpaper to remove it manually.
I have always used a small tip in a temperature-contolled soldering station set to near maximum temperature. This seems to heat the area around the hole in the tab to solder melting temperature without overheating the part.
Before feeding the wire(s) into the hole on the tab, I slide a short length of heat shring tubing over the wire and postion it well back of the connection. The diameter of the heat shrink tubing is chosen to fit tightly around the tab once is is shrunk.
Once the connection is made, the tubing is slid over the joint and heated with a heat gun to shrink it.
The result is a professional looking connection that is permanent.
I view any crimp-on or slide-on terminals as potential points of failure that are eliminated by this process.
Just my $.02 worth.
Charles
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