Soldering Binding Posts - Solder Tabs

[disconnec]

Okay, this is a very, very, very novice question... But I've searched a bit and haven't found any answer.

I just finished up a pair of BR cabs (~20 liters [i am one proud papa, lemme tell ya. knocking on these things is like knocking on concrete.]) which will shortly be housing some FE167E's. All that's left to do is to knock in the binding posts and mount the ports and speakers.

.. make that two questions.

1) I'm using Dayton knock-in binding posts from partsexpress. These guys: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=091-1245

See those little solder tabs? The tear-drop shaped dealies with the hole? How exactly do I solder and mount my wire to these? Just poke the wire through the hole, solder, and screw on the post between the two nuts? I'm sort of hoping that it's not that self-explanatory, because I don't see how that's any better than just twisting the wire around the post and clamping it between the two nuts. Yes? No?

2) I have a big ol' bag of polyfill for damping. Any guesses as to how much of this stuff I should throw in before I screw on those drivers?

Oh, one last thing. Three questions, I guess...

I'm using two-inch ports. WinISD advised me to make them about an inch long. Yeah. Should I expect any problem from having such a very short port? Would I be very much better off with a 3"x2" port?

okay thanks!

~ben

 

[simon5]

Add as much polyfill you can, but very very lightly packed.

Try increasing the diameter of the port, you'll be able to use a longer port.

 

[disconnec]

Hmm...
I already have the port hole cut on the speaker... And although I could enlarge it about an inch, it would be much simpler to avoid doing so. Would using a longer, wider port be beneficial? (less port noise?)

Sorry to be such a newbie :/

 

[Centauri]

Connecting the wires to the terminals IS as easy as you describe - whilst wrapping the wire around the terminal will also work, the act of tightening the nuts can squeeze the wire back out, hence the solder tabs. I would make sure there is a star washer on one side of the tab to ensure good contact.

With the ports, in WinISD set the maximum power level on the appropriate tab and check the port air speed graph - if it goes above around 15m/s, then port noise could be an issue. Size required will depend on volume level.

Cheers
Graeme

 

[disconnec]

Thanks all.

Looks like the velocity will top out at right about 14 m/s... I'll be sticking with the two inch port for now and I'll let you all know how it sounds when I'm done.

Thanks!

 

[simon5]

Input the length you'll use in WinISD in the port tab, you'll see the new tuning in the box tab caused by this. If the frequency response graph is ok for you, then no problems with a 2" port over a 1" port.