Something like this, its not the one we use we get it from E14 but this will be the same thing
Buy Soldering Station Accessories Multicore Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner Multicore 774239 online from RS for next day delivery.
I thought that by getting PLATO TT-95 (Made in USA) Tip-Tin, it chemistry will help any buildup carbon deposits on the tip to be removed too other than a simple tinning.
Well in my case it does not work that good, no matter the Tip temperature selection.
This is the tip tinner I use both at work and home, works very well. I rejuvinated a 5mm chisel tip I had to file with this paste.
Multicore TTC-LF Lead-Free Tip Tinner - Henkel
Multicore TTC-LF Lead-Free Tip Tinner - Henkel
Thanks, I have one. Smells really bad too.
BTW, Radio Shack is folding last 20 years at least, but still going.
yeah, but they're in bankruptcy proceedings right now which they haven't done before. sure, it's just a reorganization, but they don't have anything to reorganize into except, likely, a full on liquidation.
I use a fiberglass brush to remove stubborn deposits from time to time and wet cellulose sponge always. Wire brushes just don't get it for me
If you use a silver alloy solder it would be wise to keep the tip used seperate from the rest. Silver oxidizes very quickly and it will never come off. This will lead to a shorter tip life if left on for any extended length of time. Watch the color change as it oxidizes, will give indication of when it needs help. Retinning with regular leaded solder helps rewet the tips, but it doesn't last long. Retin very often. I always redress the silvered tip just prior to shutdown.
BTW a Hakko 470 station that retailed for $450 only cost $250 wholesale. Mention this just to put markup into perspective. 🙂
Water based organic RMA type fluxes work very well. I have various types collected over the years. Normally use an RA paster type from Kester. Still have spools of the good old leaded solder, Kester44 and Ersin multicore are favorites.
If you use a silver alloy solder it would be wise to keep the tip used seperate from the rest. Silver oxidizes very quickly and it will never come off. This will lead to a shorter tip life if left on for any extended length of time. Watch the color change as it oxidizes, will give indication of when it needs help. Retinning with regular leaded solder helps rewet the tips, but it doesn't last long. Retin very often. I always redress the silvered tip just prior to shutdown.
BTW a Hakko 470 station that retailed for $450 only cost $250 wholesale. Mention this just to put markup into perspective. 🙂
Water based organic RMA type fluxes work very well. I have various types collected over the years. Normally use an RA paster type from Kester. Still have spools of the good old leaded solder, Kester44 and Ersin multicore are favorites.
Love my Hakko 880 I only use it for new jobs, then again I have been using a $13 radio shack 30 watt iron for decades, when they quit working I go buy another. Soldered in chips on the C=64 and 128's tro modern day chip amps.
The Hakko is a dream compared to normal soldering irons.
The Hakko is a dream compared to normal soldering irons.
Normally no. Once removed can be retinned instantly preventing oxidation (foss) from setting in and also helps lift out microscopic bits of carbon.
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Without reading the whole thread - solder paste is usually for plumbing, not electronics.
Just get som good multicore solder......
Just get som good multicore solder......
There is a significant difference between electronics grade solder paste and acid based fluxes used for brazing at temperatures above 800f.
Tacky flux in a syringe is very practical. Amtech is widely counterfeited on Ebay though. Edsyn FL-22 is very good and carried by valid stockists but relatively expensive.
Possibly my next think to discover is the melting point of glass, regarding fiberglass my thought is that due it thin construction (fiber) it would be very sensitive to temperature.
I am repairing this minute, an APC RS-1500 UPS, my happiness is that I am desoldering and measuring from tiny surface mount capacitors up to high voltage electrolytic by using the same tip and soldering station, and the most important .. with out destroying the PCB.
I am working for two hours with it, and if my repair gets successful by doing simply re-cap of the bad ones, I would gain 80$ USD, which is the food on my table.
Therefore if your soldering station acts the same in your hands? Only then you can feel happy for it.
PCB damage due a worthless soldering station is not an option for me, I need to protect the property of my customer and my own reputation.
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