Hi all,
I need some “soft Fiberboard” or in German “Weichfaser dammplatte” for some speakers.
Can anyone tell me what to ask for at the hardware store? I need a 13mm (1/2”) variety.
Is it something similar to the yellow fiberglass duct material used for making airconditioning ducts? Does it look like styrofoam? Apparently it has a paper backing on some types.
Thanks
Andrew
I need some “soft Fiberboard” or in German “Weichfaser dammplatte” for some speakers.
Can anyone tell me what to ask for at the hardware store? I need a 13mm (1/2”) variety.
Is it something similar to the yellow fiberglass duct material used for making airconditioning ducts? Does it look like styrofoam? Apparently it has a paper backing on some types.
Thanks
Andrew
Greets!
These products are what comes to my mind WRT soft fiberboard: http://www.gp.com/build/productgroup.aspx?pid=1070
GM
These products are what comes to my mind WRT soft fiberboard: http://www.gp.com/build/productgroup.aspx?pid=1070
GM
It's sometimes called building board in the UK.
Ask for something to make a noticeboard (pinboard).
Ask for something to make a noticeboard (pinboard).
Thanks GM and dnsey. Now I have an idea of what I am looking for. Now i'm off to the telephone to see which if any of my hardware stores
have some.
Andrew
have some.
Andrew
Hi Andrew,
Here in Canada it's just called fiberboard and is used extensively as an insulation overlay in a roofing system.
Are you using this for damping material? It is not suited for cabinet construction.
You will get it at building supply places that specialize in roofing products, not your average hardware store. It comes in plain and asphalt impregnated. The most common thickness here is 7/16" The paper backing is called a facer.
Here in Canada it's just called fiberboard and is used extensively as an insulation overlay in a roofing system.
Are you using this for damping material? It is not suited for cabinet construction.
You will get it at building supply places that specialize in roofing products, not your average hardware store. It comes in plain and asphalt impregnated. The most common thickness here is 7/16" The paper backing is called a facer.
I imagine its for internal damping of one of Horst's cabinets. He's big on using this stuff on the internals.
hi, i have a question about using damping/lining material such as this or underlay etc.
do any of you try to guestimate the volume of the material used and compensate with the size of the cabinet ?
do any of you try to guestimate the volume of the material used and compensate with the size of the cabinet ?
Greets!
These various fiberboard products are all dense enough that all of it should be accounted for in determining net Vb and if you use any with a facing, it should be against the rigid outer wall panels.
GM
These various fiberboard products are all dense enough that all of it should be accounted for in determining net Vb and if you use any with a facing, it should be against the rigid outer wall panels.
GM
Give Scott the prize😀
Yup, I am going to try the the Schalmei Sat that Horst designed.
I was also doing some more reading and have found that this material has been in use for many decades apparently in German designed / built horns in both the regular and tar versions. I found some here at the hardware store. Its called Hushboard and it looks to me very similar to mdf that got wet and expanded.
GM, have you ever heard it/ or heard of it used in speakers?
Andrew
I've experimented with it, but it 'sucks the life' out of a well designed speaker IMO, being better suited for limited BW, high Q alignments that need such broadband damping, such as a minimally/non stuffed 'sub' TL.
Thanks GM,
I know what you mean about "sucks the life" out of speakers. I have found that as little as possible wrt damping is better.
I will see how this works out. Always willing to try something new (to me).
Andrew
I know what you mean about "sucks the life" out of speakers. I have found that as little as possible wrt damping is better.
I will see how this works out. Always willing to try something new (to me).
Andrew
Hi Andrew!
I must say I'm curious what's up with "der dampfplatten" and Schalmei sat.
Best regards,
Peter
I must say I'm curious what's up with "der dampfplatten" and Schalmei sat.
Best regards,
Peter
The board I get here is made by a company called "cellotex" (sp). Its also known as "hushboard" and probably other names as well. It looks similar to mdf that got wet and expanded and breaks pretty easily. Its sole pupose in the Schalmei Sat and many other German designs is for damping.
So, I now have a new tool in my horn building arsenal although the last horn I designed was probably over a year ago and never completed. I still have the sides for it, it was curved 180 degrees kind of like a large "C".
The Schalmei Sat works great! When I looked it over and saw the B200 I thought no way but it works a treat. Horst also recommends the Fostex 206. One would think thats a bit of a spread of speaker parameters but I'll take his word for it.
The folding is ingenius. It either took lots of thought or just came as a brainwave I think. The horn mouths appear too small and the horn path a bit short to me but again it works. It is a double horn which is also bifurcated. It is as the name implies used as a satellite speaker with a sub to do the bass. It rolls off to my ears somewhere ~130 to 150 cycles, horn action probably up to ~700 cycles.
If you are familiar to the B200 sound, think of the same tone but with multiplied dynamics, the horn loading at work.
I had the B200 in open baffles before playing full range with a pair of Rythmik Audio servo subs. Now it just the Schalmei Sats, until I get the time to sort our the old OB's which had the subs integrated into them. I have been very busy with work lately buy I'm not complaining, at least I still have a job.
So, I now have a new tool in my horn building arsenal although the last horn I designed was probably over a year ago and never completed. I still have the sides for it, it was curved 180 degrees kind of like a large "C".
The Schalmei Sat works great! When I looked it over and saw the B200 I thought no way but it works a treat. Horst also recommends the Fostex 206. One would think thats a bit of a spread of speaker parameters but I'll take his word for it.
The folding is ingenius. It either took lots of thought or just came as a brainwave I think. The horn mouths appear too small and the horn path a bit short to me but again it works. It is a double horn which is also bifurcated. It is as the name implies used as a satellite speaker with a sub to do the bass. It rolls off to my ears somewhere ~130 to 150 cycles, horn action probably up to ~700 cycles.
If you are familiar to the B200 sound, think of the same tone but with multiplied dynamics, the horn loading at work.
I had the B200 in open baffles before playing full range with a pair of Rythmik Audio servo subs. Now it just the Schalmei Sats, until I get the time to sort our the old OB's which had the subs integrated into them. I have been very busy with work lately buy I'm not complaining, at least I still have a job.
Hi Andrew!
Thanks for the elaborate answer, have to try this board next build.
I've been curious about Horst's horns but never seen anyone build them. I would guess there are more in Germany.
Regarding Visaton, I've heard their Nobox and liked it alot. Lets see if it will be an OB next time.
Only downside is space, I have a ~50 sqm room but the only option is to put them in front of a window wall! Can't imagine that will be good.
Cheers,
Peter
Thanks for the elaborate answer, have to try this board next build.
I've been curious about Horst's horns but never seen anyone build them. I would guess there are more in Germany.
Regarding Visaton, I've heard their Nobox and liked it alot. Lets see if it will be an OB next time.
Only downside is space, I have a ~50 sqm room but the only option is to put them in front of a window wall! Can't imagine that will be good.
Cheers,
Peter
Peter,
I found with the OB's you have to give them at least about 5 - 6 feet distance from the rear wall and a similar but perhaps less amount from the side walls. I also put convuluted (eggcrate) foam over the rear of the speakers to help kill some of the rearwave. My room is very live, concrete walls and ceramic tile floors with little treatment.
I like the OB's a lot but prefer horns overall.
Andrew
I found with the OB's you have to give them at least about 5 - 6 feet distance from the rear wall and a similar but perhaps less amount from the side walls. I also put convuluted (eggcrate) foam over the rear of the speakers to help kill some of the rearwave. My room is very live, concrete walls and ceramic tile floors with little treatment.
I like the OB's a lot but prefer horns overall.
Andrew
This board was once used as damping in BBC designs in the 60s. It's still advocated by Russ Andrews in combination with veneered chipboard (Contiboard in the UK). I made a sealed cabinet using this approach which was light, rigid and sounded very clean at high volumes (as I discovered when I sold them).
My current MLTL 48s use 12mm ply and fibreboard but given that most of the vibration is in the top and bottom panels, I am not sure if it is any benefit over 18mm ply alone. Next time I'm tempted to go back to the Contiboard/fibreboard route although GM's comments above give me pause.
Nuuk mentions Contiboard/fibreboard construction on his site.
My current MLTL 48s use 12mm ply and fibreboard but given that most of the vibration is in the top and bottom panels, I am not sure if it is any benefit over 18mm ply alone. Next time I'm tempted to go back to the Contiboard/fibreboard route although GM's comments above give me pause.
Nuuk mentions Contiboard/fibreboard construction on his site.
Andrewbee said:
Yup, these are my main concerns and windows behind will not be good. Maybe some damping behind, as you say.
We'll see....
Cheers,
Peter
- Status
- Not open for further replies.