I'm thinking of soldering "capacitor leads" cut-off on the each side and then soldering those leads into the PCB. thought?
I'm guessing the added resistance will be very very small.
You may be wondering why I'm doing it.
Thanks!
I'm guessing the added resistance will be very very small.
You may be wondering why I'm doing it.
- Well, thin film SMD tolerances can be so much better than equivalent value/wattage resistor for the same price. The temperatures the SMD resistor will be subjected to will within its specs.
- I got plenty of time or I can take my time finishing the PCB.
Thanks!
To repair something where no other option is available? Go for it.
To get perceived "better specs" and so "improve sound?"
Forget it.
Including that clumsy hand soldering will overheat them big time, worsening their specs.
Add that when soldering legs to pads they will unsolder from resistor body.
To get perceived "better specs" and so "improve sound?"
Forget it.
Including that clumsy hand soldering will overheat them big time, worsening their specs.
Add that when soldering legs to pads they will unsolder from resistor body.
Better to make a small board with SMD on it then link wires off.
Although I have an 0603 SMD cap across the pins of a point-to-point wired BJT. Plan for that is tin the pins when they're still hot and fast solder the SMD cap onto it. It's so small it's not going to survive much messing about.
Although I have an 0603 SMD cap across the pins of a point-to-point wired BJT. Plan for that is tin the pins when they're still hot and fast solder the SMD cap onto it. It's so small it's not going to survive much messing about.
I've done it before when I've run out of a TH but had the required SMD on hand.
I use solid copper wire, cut 2 pieces about 3/4" - 1" long and flatten the ends using the flat surface of my plier jaws. Then I bend them over at 90 degrees to give the correct distance between the holes and the SMD I am using. I solder the wires into position which leaves the flattened surfaces in position where the SMD will go. I tin those surfaces, affix the SMD then trim the leads at the end.
The trick here is to get the SMD seated in as little time as possible to prevent damage to the SMD as well as to stop the wires from becoming free to move again.
Use higher power components to allow for less effective heat management (1/2w instead of 1/4w etc).
Works absolutely fine in a pinch and the results don't look too bodgy.
I use solid copper wire, cut 2 pieces about 3/4" - 1" long and flatten the ends using the flat surface of my plier jaws. Then I bend them over at 90 degrees to give the correct distance between the holes and the SMD I am using. I solder the wires into position which leaves the flattened surfaces in position where the SMD will go. I tin those surfaces, affix the SMD then trim the leads at the end.
The trick here is to get the SMD seated in as little time as possible to prevent damage to the SMD as well as to stop the wires from becoming free to move again.
Use higher power components to allow for less effective heat management (1/2w instead of 1/4w etc).
Works absolutely fine in a pinch and the results don't look too bodgy.
The regular ones are so cheap, why use SMD unless in an emergency...?
Don't ask Indian prices, dirt cheap by Western standards.
Don't ask Indian prices, dirt cheap by Western standards.
30 Rupees for 100 1/4watt 5% carbon in retail.
Metal oxide 1/4W 1% are about 1 Rupee each, say 80 per dollar, again retail.
Thousand pack reels will be about half that.
Odd lots, and cartons (many thousands) will be anybody's guess, I have no experience there.
Metal oxide 1/4W 1% are about 1 Rupee each, say 80 per dollar, again retail.
Thousand pack reels will be about half that.
Odd lots, and cartons (many thousands) will be anybody's guess, I have no experience there.
Why waste time? I thought I explained that already? 🙂
I didn't thought the heat dissipation when the components is soldered directly into the PCB.
Thanks