Have Niles 2100, uses the hypex ucd250 modules. The input board falty, where the signal sense quits. Anyway, some time ago just skipped the board and drive the amp modules with healthy preamp, like that better anyways operating modules at ~13db gain. Anyway, i order to use the power supply have to still have the board around as some handshake where relays on the input board make the power supply provide the rail voltage (+/-52.5vdc) The ribbon cable connect power supply and input board has, -12, agnd, +12, dgnd, p&d (?), +5, stb. Notice the last 3 pins most always have +5v, was hoping something simple as feed the power supply with 5v turn on. Nothing on the +/-12 which woulda thought from power supply.
Try blowing something up feed +/-12vdc pins to the power supply (seem backward) ? Plus thinking that 12v pair 'turned on' along with the other main power output +/-52. Or is it usually just something loading one of the 5v's coming out of power supply?
Try blowing something up feed +/-12vdc pins to the power supply (seem backward) ? Plus thinking that 12v pair 'turned on' along with the other main power output +/-52. Or is it usually just something loading one of the 5v's coming out of power supply?
I can't make sense of your word salad. I suggest reading the UCD250 data sheet. You can find it here: https://www.hypex.nl/media/6e/30/0f/1645888483/UcD250LP_OEM_R7.pdf
Tom
Tom
Ya, sorry No problems with the modules. Just trying to figure out how to turn the power supply on without having the input board present, which suspect loads some output (+/-12, couple 5v's, and some grounds) of the ribbon from power supply to input board. Just wanna remove the input board and trying to figure how to reverse engineer without schematics, figuring someone familiar with common schemes used to 'handshake' the main smps power supply on
I guess your amplifier has remote triggered ON power supplies,from:
Short answer: no, nobody can guess what you need, no data means pure divination.
All amps are different, many dream of "one size fits all" "common solutions" but that´s only a dream.
Your only path is to ask original Manufacturer.
IF you had a FULL schematic (not only the power modules as kindly offered by Tomchr) then somebody might deduce what detection and triggering is being used, and maybe suggest some mechanical switch to turn that supply ON, but lacking it ..... impossible.
Most I could suggest, and pay attentionn that it might damage something, is to try applying +5V, relative to ground, to the pin labelled Stby and check whether it works some magic or not.
Another possibility might be to carefully look at power supply, MAYBE there is a Relay connecting Mains Voltage to the power supply proper (input noise filtering - diode bridge - high voltage cpcitors) triggered by the remote control signal; in that case you might replace it with a regular power switch (you will need to punch/drill chassis to mount it)
All standard disclaimers apply, such as "you do it under your own responsibility", YMMV, jm2c, etc.
Personally I'd bite the bullet and send it for Service to manufacturer.
and maybe "input module", now apparently failing, detects audio signal input and turns amp ON on demand (many Car type amps and a few powered Subwoofers work in a similar way).
Short answer: no, nobody can guess what you need, no data means pure divination.
All amps are different, many dream of "one size fits all" "common solutions" but that´s only a dream.
Your only path is to ask original Manufacturer.
IF you had a FULL schematic (not only the power modules as kindly offered by Tomchr) then somebody might deduce what detection and triggering is being used, and maybe suggest some mechanical switch to turn that supply ON, but lacking it ..... impossible.
Most I could suggest, and pay attentionn that it might damage something, is to try applying +5V, relative to ground, to the pin labelled Stby and check whether it works some magic or not.
Another possibility might be to carefully look at power supply, MAYBE there is a Relay connecting Mains Voltage to the power supply proper (input noise filtering - diode bridge - high voltage cpcitors) triggered by the remote control signal; in that case you might replace it with a regular power switch (you will need to punch/drill chassis to mount it)
All standard disclaimers apply, such as "you do it under your own responsibility", YMMV, jm2c, etc.
Personally I'd bite the bullet and send it for Service to manufacturer.
See page 3 of the data sheet I linked to in Post #2. Then see the data sheet for the power supply that you're using.
Tom
Tom