AmScope has 15% off all of their scopes right now. The SM-4B series is a well built IMO. Be sure to add the led ring light.
https://amscope.com/collections/ste...stand_type=Filter_Stand+Type|Boom:+Double+Arm
https://amscope.com/collections/ste...stand_type=Filter_Stand+Type|Boom:+Double+Arm
I have a stereomicroscope I use for soldering SMT parts. As I get older, it seems I use it for more and more stuff! It also is great for pulling out splinters, too.
Regular rosin-core solder works fine for things like R's and C's. For the really small stuff it can be very helpful to use small-gauge solder. Trying to solder an SMT resistor whose pads are the size of a pencil tip isn't going to be easy if you are using solder whose diameter is equal to or greater than the entire resistor. You also can get SMT tweezers designed to grip capacitors and resistors. Their end is curved to make it easier to hold them in place while you solder them down. I have a couple with different angled ends if I need to accommodate adjacent (taller) parts. But on that subject: solder the shorter parts first before moving on to the tall ones. Whether they're SMT or thru-hole.
Choose a soldering iron tip that's appropriate for the stuff you are soldering.
Another thing that I have found useful is solder flux, when it comes to soldering parts in fine-pitch packages. Dry-soldering can be an exercise in frustration in terms of solder bridges, but applying solder flux beforehand helps confine the solder to regions it can wet. Like the pads/pins you want.
Depending on the package, pre-tinning the leads can be helpful. This is particularly true for QFN packages, where the "pins" only are on the bottom side of the package. BUT the pins usually are exposed on the sides of the package, too.....permitting some in-situ rework if your reflow process isn't all that great. I always pre-tin the SIDES of those pins, just because of that possibility. It's saved my bacon a few times.....
I also have a solder-sucker for situations where I need to remove a lot of solder, or in places where it's difficult to place solder wick. Different sizes of solder wick also can be handy.
Regular rosin-core solder works fine for things like R's and C's. For the really small stuff it can be very helpful to use small-gauge solder. Trying to solder an SMT resistor whose pads are the size of a pencil tip isn't going to be easy if you are using solder whose diameter is equal to or greater than the entire resistor. You also can get SMT tweezers designed to grip capacitors and resistors. Their end is curved to make it easier to hold them in place while you solder them down. I have a couple with different angled ends if I need to accommodate adjacent (taller) parts. But on that subject: solder the shorter parts first before moving on to the tall ones. Whether they're SMT or thru-hole.
Choose a soldering iron tip that's appropriate for the stuff you are soldering.
Another thing that I have found useful is solder flux, when it comes to soldering parts in fine-pitch packages. Dry-soldering can be an exercise in frustration in terms of solder bridges, but applying solder flux beforehand helps confine the solder to regions it can wet. Like the pads/pins you want.
Depending on the package, pre-tinning the leads can be helpful. This is particularly true for QFN packages, where the "pins" only are on the bottom side of the package. BUT the pins usually are exposed on the sides of the package, too.....permitting some in-situ rework if your reflow process isn't all that great. I always pre-tin the SIDES of those pins, just because of that possibility. It's saved my bacon a few times.....
I also have a solder-sucker for situations where I need to remove a lot of solder, or in places where it's difficult to place solder wick. Different sizes of solder wick also can be handy.
