I needed to order Chevy parts from the US and called Dutch customs.
The Nazi accused me of ordering components from a country that crossed a trade agreement with the EC, as EuroTrash i should order parts from a European country.
If i wanted to know what the charge would be i should call the US and ask for the international article codes.
With those codes i could finger through brick size custom books to find the import numbers.
With those numbers, customs could tell me the import percentage, but i'd have to hurry because the EC would put another raise of the sanctions on imports from the US shortly !!!
You desire to know where the Moscow partymembers went ?
Brussels !
(i ordered the parts in the US for bottom rate, asked the shop on the phone not to add funny stickers on the box, and got them here without sales tax, nor EC mobster import fees)
Maybe there is hope, GW is here at the moment and playing Mr nice guy.
Which one of us is going crazy ?
The Nazi accused me of ordering components from a country that crossed a trade agreement with the EC, as EuroTrash i should order parts from a European country.
If i wanted to know what the charge would be i should call the US and ask for the international article codes.
With those codes i could finger through brick size custom books to find the import numbers.
With those numbers, customs could tell me the import percentage, but i'd have to hurry because the EC would put another raise of the sanctions on imports from the US shortly !!!
You desire to know where the Moscow partymembers went ?
Brussels !
(i ordered the parts in the US for bottom rate, asked the shop on the phone not to add funny stickers on the box, and got them here without sales tax, nor EC mobster import fees)
Maybe there is hope, GW is here at the moment and playing Mr nice guy.
Which one of us is going crazy ?
Regarding cost,
If you think about the fact that I already made a prototype run using my extended 10 transistor version to verify that all parts will fit, and that nothing has been reversed I think the 6 transistor boards are dirt cheap. The boards will work, so the extra shipping cost is a small price to pay for boards that a “fool proof”
Other members (e.g. Jacco and others - thank you so much) have helped me by buying boards from my prototype run of 25 boards. I made 25 boards in order to get the price of about 45 US$, if I had made only the 10 boards I need for myself the price would have been in the region of 70 US$. I took at chance that some out there wanted some of the boards; luckily some of the diy members have bought boards from me, leaving me with only about 1000 dkkr of extra boards in the basement.
I also spend time finding part from digikey that will fit on the board, so the people in the US have an easy time getting the parts they need. The list it not post yet as it is not yet complete. I hope to get a complete digikey list with their order numbers done before the boards arrive. If all goes according to the moving plan the internet will be operational the day we move into our new house; if not this will be the reason for my absence.
I have been working on a deal with an American PCB manufacturer, but chances are that the prices will be higher in the US compared to the offer I got from the local manufacturer. Time will tell, I have not give up on this yet, but don’t get your hopes up for at better deal by buying locally manufactured PCBs in the US.
\Jens
If you think about the fact that I already made a prototype run using my extended 10 transistor version to verify that all parts will fit, and that nothing has been reversed I think the 6 transistor boards are dirt cheap. The boards will work, so the extra shipping cost is a small price to pay for boards that a “fool proof”
Other members (e.g. Jacco and others - thank you so much) have helped me by buying boards from my prototype run of 25 boards. I made 25 boards in order to get the price of about 45 US$, if I had made only the 10 boards I need for myself the price would have been in the region of 70 US$. I took at chance that some out there wanted some of the boards; luckily some of the diy members have bought boards from me, leaving me with only about 1000 dkkr of extra boards in the basement.
I also spend time finding part from digikey that will fit on the board, so the people in the US have an easy time getting the parts they need. The list it not post yet as it is not yet complete. I hope to get a complete digikey list with their order numbers done before the boards arrive. If all goes according to the moving plan the internet will be operational the day we move into our new house; if not this will be the reason for my absence.
I have been working on a deal with an American PCB manufacturer, but chances are that the prices will be higher in the US compared to the offer I got from the local manufacturer. Time will tell, I have not give up on this yet, but don’t get your hopes up for at better deal by buying locally manufactured PCBs in the US.
\Jens
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaah,
not only can i bunk at your place when i torched the Leach boards and my house as a result of my nutty ways.
To have something to occupy myself waiting for a new residence i can build new Leaches in your basement with your spare boards and my remaining Toshiba's.
not only can i bunk at your place when i torched the Leach boards and my house as a result of my nutty ways.
To have something to occupy myself waiting for a new residence i can build new Leaches in your basement with your spare boards and my remaining Toshiba's.
looking better all the time
"We have now reached the 150 pcs standard. price of 90 dkkr"
Converting to US$ gives me about $15.50. This is quite a good deal!
"We have now reached the 150 pcs standard. price of 90 dkkr"
Converting to US$ gives me about $15.50. This is quite a good deal!
The reason for looking at an American company for the US part of the group buy was to minimize the amount of problems with costumes and other official state offices.
I have serious doubts that it will do pricing any good if the order is split into two sub buys, I know for a fact that the Elprint order will be somewhat more expensive if only half of the boards are ordered here. I hope to keep everything in one order, and find an alternative way of distributing the US order from within the US.
The EU orders should be OK, I expect no problems with customs or other state affairs.
\Jens
I have serious doubts that it will do pricing any good if the order is split into two sub buys, I know for a fact that the Elprint order will be somewhat more expensive if only half of the boards are ordered here. I hope to keep everything in one order, and find an alternative way of distributing the US order from within the US.
The EU orders should be OK, I expect no problems with customs or other state affairs.
\Jens
JensRasmussen said:
Don't ship the merchandise to Brussels !
I've sent boxed presents to friends in Colorado, Houston and California a number of times, never any problem.
Considering that Holland is the main and favorite supplier of the US when it comes to XTC pills for several years, that should mean something.
Just the other week i think i saw one of the Escobar's in a bar.
Sending it all in one package to the US would not be wise, i'd opt for dividing the stuff in 4 parcels.
jacco vermeulen said:Terry,
it is the fool who orders a meal in a restaurant not knowing he will be working in the kitchen later to pay the tab.
It is wise to see what the cost will be up front, and think of ways not to spend without necessity.
As Brian (i am learning) reconfirmed, as he is willing to do the distributing thing in the US, postal costs can be a lot lower.
With +40 boards, at the moment, going to the North Americas you probably will have lower postal charge than me.
If required i could pay for your boards and you could send me the money in an envelope.
The idea was that I smoked the Camel's, not YOU !!!
jacco,
I don't know why, but sending tobacco products overseas feels wrong to me. Do they not sell Camels in your country?
I wasn't confused about who would be smoking them. 😀
Jens,
I certainly didn't mean to take anything away for the contribution you have made here and I'm sure that the boards are worth much more than they will cost. I guess I was just thinking out loud so to speak, and trying to learn about all of this "Group Buy" stuff. I have spent so much money lately for "shipping and handling" and Paypal fees, I guess I'm just looking for ways to reduce that.
Thanks to everyone who took the time to explain the process.
Blessings, Terry
I can send a 1 pound package with a "Media Mail" rate from Massachusetts to California (7 day delivery) for $1.42. I assume that 4 boards will weigh less than that. I would be willing to do the US distribution at my own expense if no one minds the long delivery time.
That settles it,
sending my grandma is out of the question, she weighs a ton !
Terry,
Reynolds became Jt international, more and more Camel cigarettes are produced locally, try googling JTI if you find it interesting.
Camel cigarettes have been produced here in Holland for decades, just not the same thing as the originals.
Not meant to be taken that seriously, i offered the deal as you would not let me make the offer for free.
I'd be pretty happy with the rate Jens arranged for the number of boards reached at the wiki, and Brian's offer to handle the logistics in the US for less than a package of mouthwatering ciggies.
isnt this groupbuy thing glorious, Brian is a great guy !
sending my grandma is out of the question, she weighs a ton !
Terry,
Reynolds became Jt international, more and more Camel cigarettes are produced locally, try googling JTI if you find it interesting.
Camel cigarettes have been produced here in Holland for decades, just not the same thing as the originals.
Not meant to be taken that seriously, i offered the deal as you would not let me make the offer for free.
I'd be pretty happy with the rate Jens arranged for the number of boards reached at the wiki, and Brian's offer to handle the logistics in the US for less than a package of mouthwatering ciggies.
isnt this groupbuy thing glorious, Brian is a great guy !
Please note that Thursday the 12th of May will be the last day to order
Then I will start collecting the payments for the boards.
\Jens
Then I will start collecting the payments for the boards.
\Jens
Jens,
While where waiting for the deadline date to come around, so we can take the next step, I was wondering if you can post your impressions of how your LC audio Millennium compares to the Leach amp (In your opinion) ?
Leve
While where waiting for the deadline date to come around, so we can take the next step, I was wondering if you can post your impressions of how your LC audio Millennium compares to the Leach amp (In your opinion) ?
Leve
Sorry to repeat my question but would this amplifier be suitable to drive a subwoofer?
/Andreas
/Andreas
LBHajdu said:
I don't have millennium, but one of my friends had two monoblocks we listened to. I like both amps, but favor the leach by a hair.
sprawl said:
What kind of subwoofer? and for what application (home or higher power)
\Jens
"Sorry to repeat my question but would this amplifier be suitable to drive a subwoofer?"
The Leach sounds great full range!
I built the front end for a friend for use as a sub amp. burnedfingers did all the hard work of building the chassis,heatsink, etc.), ±93V, six pair of MJ15024/25, 600W/4R.
It really slams.
burnedfingers liked it so much he had a one-piece pcb made up and sold over three dozen complete units through a local high end home theater shop.
The local board house went belly up (new EPA regs) but the board files are still available.
The Leach sounds great full range!
I built the front end for a friend for use as a sub amp. burnedfingers did all the hard work of building the chassis,heatsink, etc.), ±93V, six pair of MJ15024/25, 600W/4R.
It really slams.
burnedfingers liked it so much he had a one-piece pcb made up and sold over three dozen complete units through a local high end home theater shop.
The local board house went belly up (new EPA regs) but the board files are still available.
I have used my Leach as a subamp.It replaced the amp that came with the sub and I have to say the leach did a much better job. My sub was a powered Miller&Kreilsel 12".
The Leach I used has 4 outputs per channel and 54v rails.
I have not used the sub much recently as my wife does not like to hear the walls rattle.
Steve
The Leach I used has 4 outputs per channel and 54v rails.
I have not used the sub much recently as my wife does not like to hear the walls rattle.
Steve
djk,
Who knows maybe someday someone will start producing the Leach amp commercially again. I take it Dr. Leach has no objections?
Jens,
What do you think of the Leach Clipping indicator for the Leach amp. It’s on Leach’s web site as a pdf at http://users.ece.gatech.edu/~mleach/lowtim/graphics/clip.pdf . How does it work? Is it a true DC detector or does it just sense then the output is approaching the rail. Do you think it may be worth adding to the board?
It really surprises me that the Millennium is only as good as the leach amp and not any better. One would think with all the magic transistors they employ in there non-feedback topology, that the amp would be fair superior. I guess it just goes to show you, you just can judge an amp by its schematic (that doesn’t mean me and many others wont try). The only true test is a listening test. Was it in the base area that the leach surpasses the Millennium in your opinion?
Leve
Who knows maybe someday someone will start producing the Leach amp commercially again. I take it Dr. Leach has no objections?
Jens,
What do you think of the Leach Clipping indicator for the Leach amp. It’s on Leach’s web site as a pdf at http://users.ece.gatech.edu/~mleach/lowtim/graphics/clip.pdf . How does it work? Is it a true DC detector or does it just sense then the output is approaching the rail. Do you think it may be worth adding to the board?
It really surprises me that the Millennium is only as good as the leach amp and not any better. One would think with all the magic transistors they employ in there non-feedback topology, that the amp would be fair superior. I guess it just goes to show you, you just can judge an amp by its schematic (that doesn’t mean me and many others wont try). The only true test is a listening test. Was it in the base area that the leach surpasses the Millennium in your opinion?
Leve
I guess I could make room for a small board with the clipping indicator on board. If I remove the SMT thermal diodes, I think there is enough room to to fint the parts.
What does the rest of the you think about the idea?
\Jens
What does the rest of the you think about the idea?
\Jens
Would you add pads to the main board to tap power and output as well? Also, would we need two (one per channel)? It would be nice if it was a) small and b) had mounting holes so the whole assembly could be mounted to the front panel of the amp.
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