If you are reading this and are unfamiliar with my escapade so far, I'm building a 3 way set of speakers the size of a set of bookshelf speakers. For the Mid and Tweeter, I am using a KEF SB1632. For the Sub I'm using a dayton E150HE-44 5-1/2" speaker.
In a prior thread, we went back and forth concluding MFB would be a pretty cool addition to my design. But then it hit me...
I'm trying to put a subwoofer in a relatively small enclosure. Already I'm looking at some interesting design challenges... some of which I guarantee I haven't even thought of yet.
So yeah, what would be some design considerations I should take into account while making this thing?
In a prior thread, we went back and forth concluding MFB would be a pretty cool addition to my design. But then it hit me...
I'm trying to put a subwoofer in a relatively small enclosure. Already I'm looking at some interesting design challenges... some of which I guarantee I haven't even thought of yet.
So yeah, what would be some design considerations I should take into account while making this thing?
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One thing I was looking at is maybe imitating a method of decoupling used in studios (bass traps, multiple walls, dense materials, etc.). If I'm understanding a lot of these methods; is a big theme here the increase of surface area as well as density?
Yes, the WLs are very large, i.e. 20 Hz dia. = ~13543/pi/20 = 215.544"/17.962 ft, so suspending layers of 4'x8'x0.75" MDF or mounting them to spring rails can be required.
This may sound silly, but if increasing surface area is part of what you want, why not use something granular like a sandbag (dense and increased surface area from particulate)?
I am seriously considering it. I'm just not sure what configuration I should go with. I was thinking maybe push-pull but I'm not sure.
LMAO!!!
I saw on a YouTube video from diyperks when he made a diy speaker used plaster of paris to fill the empty space. Not sure that's a terrific idea if the enclosure is mostly wood or MDF. Then again, I still haven't settled on a final design yet.
I saw on a YouTube video from diyperks when he made a diy speaker used plaster of paris to fill the empty space. Not sure that's a terrific idea if the enclosure is mostly wood or MDF. Then again, I still haven't settled on a final design yet.
Double wall sand loaded cab
PoP is fine as long as it's not too humid before it can be sealed up and/or exterior grade plywood or similar is used. Folks have used pea gravel, fine metal scrap, 'you name it', so plenty of cheap options. For component/whatever racks, stands, folks have filled pipes with all manner of materials packed down.
PoP is fine as long as it's not too humid before it can be sealed up and/or exterior grade plywood or similar is used. Folks have used pea gravel, fine metal scrap, 'you name it', so plenty of cheap options. For component/whatever racks, stands, folks have filled pipes with all manner of materials packed down.
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Consider the KEF SP1632 used in the "R" series speakers use from one to four 6.5” speakers below.
Using a single 5-1/2" is going to be rather underwhelming if you want extension into the 20Hz range.
That said, you can cross the SP1632 lower if it does not have to "keep up", so you could probably drop the crossover to around 100Hz and not have to put the subs in the top cabinet. If you are dead set on single cabinets there is also no need to have the LF driver(s) on the front panel when using a low crossover point.
Isobaric woofers limit output to that of a single driver, as the cone area and excursion are unchanged.
Bob Carver's Sunfire subs are a good example of <1 cubic foot boxes with serious LF , +/-3 dB from 18 to 110 Hz.
Adding a passive radiator to your 5-1/2" drivers is going to give the most clean LF output down to Fb in the smallest box with the least EQ required.
On paper the dayton has the capability of going low, but I see your point. I could up to the 7" or maybe add a second one. That's definitely in the budget.
http://www.audioexcite.com/?page_id=3614
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/small-3-way-with-kef-sp1632-sb-acoustics.233572/
According to this guy, dropping below 300Hz is not a terrific idea for the SP1632. That and that's about where the Dayton starts to even deviate a little so I figured a 300/3000 crossover was a good round number to use. Easy crossover calcs etc.
Honestly, I'm just trying to keep it at least a little compact because I'm probably moving with these to an apartment and I do not want to make the neighbors angry lol. Otherwise I would probably be designing this WAY differently.
Even back to back? Or is it in any configuration?
Well fortunately for me they make a passive radiator that goes with the woofer so that's definitely a possibility
For me, pipe organ symphonies and symphonies in general that have concert grand and especially Imperial concert grand pianos. 👍 😎
For others I imagine there's some 'flavor' of synth, otherwise, yeah, 40 Hz is fine. Up into at least the early '90s, most live concerts were set flat from 300-100 Hz (at least in the USA in general) where 'boom'/'punch'/fullness'/'warmth' resides, then -12 dB/80 Hz, -24 dB/40 Hz and nobody ever complained about too little bass, which shows that high
'thumpin' SPL in the upper bass is what gets our 'motors' running. 😉
For others I imagine there's some 'flavor' of synth, otherwise, yeah, 40 Hz is fine. Up into at least the early '90s, most live concerts were set flat from 300-100 Hz (at least in the USA in general) where 'boom'/'punch'/fullness'/'warmth' resides, then -12 dB/80 Hz, -24 dB/40 Hz and nobody ever complained about too little bass, which shows that high
'thumpin' SPL in the upper bass is what gets our 'motors' running. 😉
1) I want to watch movies too
2) it's more than just the "audio" itself. While you can't typically hear bass that low, you can certainly feel it. That's why you have a lot of companies out there that make those funny subs with fans on them. Same goes for the highs. Your ears cannot detect anything above 20khz, but those frequencies are still there and they still act upon the air. Basically I want the speakers to have as much opportunity to create a more realistic sound stage as possible.
OK Cool👍 You can feel 40-50hz very well too.
Optimally I suggest you change to lighty constructed wooden flooring if you are so unfortunate to have concrete. Un-cushoned seating is absolutely mandatory.
Nike Airs or similar foot wear are simply a no go near Home theatres.
Cheers!
Optimally I suggest you change to lighty constructed wooden flooring if you are so unfortunate to have concrete. Un-cushoned seating is absolutely mandatory.
Nike Airs or similar foot wear are simply a no go near Home theatres.
Cheers!
I have been a strong advocate for small subwoofers over the years. Unfortunately - they do not work. It doesn't matter what design tweaks you make to gain a couple of percentage points, the juice is (literally) not worth the squeeze.
At the end of the day, at sub-bass frequencies, your 5-inch driver going to require 100w to produce the output a 12-driver can do with just 1w.
At the end of the day, at sub-bass frequencies, your 5-inch driver going to require 100w to produce the output a 12-driver can do with just 1w.