I like the circle jig, pretty cool. Can't wait to see pics as it comes together, looks like a good fit with the pot but I don't really know what I'm looking at yet.
I hope its not broken inside. It payed to use good plywood here. You can see a few hammer marks, the rubber mallet stopped being affective by about 3/4 of the way. I had to whale on it pretty good to fully seat the thing. It will get sanded nice and flush with the metal
I actually did a perfect job cutting it and sizing to fit. The stupid drill bit made bumps inside with sharp edges. I removed excess, should of got the angle grinder at it. I bet it was hanging up on those. Or the adhesive was tacking faster than I expected. Perhaps a bit of both??
Sorry, I should be posting this on my thread, oops.
I actually did a perfect job cutting it and sizing to fit. The stupid drill bit made bumps inside with sharp edges. I removed excess, should of got the angle grinder at it. I bet it was hanging up on those. Or the adhesive was tacking faster than I expected. Perhaps a bit of both??
Sorry, I should be posting this on my thread, oops.
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Okay now I see what you're talking about in regards to low margins for error. That's a good point about the exit wounds from the drill holes, that had to have been a problem. G/L on the next steps, look forward to seeing the progress.
Once its sanded it won't exist. The majority will be but out for the speaker hole, the last bit sanded to plane. I'll cut it tomorrow and know if it got damaged inside. It should be ok I think.
so my 100w dayton 100LF finally arrived. Overall, underwhelming. My Dayton SA25 sounds like the 100w amp and the 100LF sounds like a 20w. Well, not entirely, but close.
Unless there is some secret setting, the problem with the 100LF is to get any bass out of it, I have to max the output on my steinberg usb interface, max my comp volume, and then it does okay. the main problem with that is the out on the 100LF splits to my two 100w fosi amps that drive my DML panels. Those things are loud. So with that much input, I can barely crack the volume on the Fosi's, it would take 10 minutes of setup to get the volume workable from song to song. Unusable.
After emailing Dayton, I had a thought, that maybe I can use the headphone out -- I hadn't considered it because it's a higher gain or something and creates a horrible noise if I connect the Fosi's. Hunted down the hardware and sure enough it's compatible with the 100LF. That solves the deal breaker, I can turn the headphone gain all the way up without affecting the Fosi's. however, with the 100LF at max and headphone out at max to my 8" sub, at a given volume level from the computer, that gives me about the same amount of bass as the lines out at 50% and the SA25 gain at 50% connected to my 6.5" sub.
Now, at half volume input from the computer control, I can't go to 100% or even 75% without overwhelming the SA25, while I can go to full blast with the 100LF and it's not distorting. So I guess at the end of the day it's a little louder, and the quality is fine. But feel like I'm not getting 100w.
I'd probably have it boxed up and ready to send back if not for one redeeming thing. In my limited space, the sound from the subs intersect at a 90 deg angle. This is the first time I listened to them together, and they cancel each other. fantastic lesson in audio as that's something I might read about and blow off as theory until it actually really happens. And sure enough, the Dayton phase knob fixes it completely.
So with the phase knob, the fact it works with the headphone out; sigh. Well, if somebody has a ~100w sub amp recommendation, I feel like I need something to compare to see if this thing is working right power wise.
Unless there is some secret setting, the problem with the 100LF is to get any bass out of it, I have to max the output on my steinberg usb interface, max my comp volume, and then it does okay. the main problem with that is the out on the 100LF splits to my two 100w fosi amps that drive my DML panels. Those things are loud. So with that much input, I can barely crack the volume on the Fosi's, it would take 10 minutes of setup to get the volume workable from song to song. Unusable.
After emailing Dayton, I had a thought, that maybe I can use the headphone out -- I hadn't considered it because it's a higher gain or something and creates a horrible noise if I connect the Fosi's. Hunted down the hardware and sure enough it's compatible with the 100LF. That solves the deal breaker, I can turn the headphone gain all the way up without affecting the Fosi's. however, with the 100LF at max and headphone out at max to my 8" sub, at a given volume level from the computer, that gives me about the same amount of bass as the lines out at 50% and the SA25 gain at 50% connected to my 6.5" sub.
Now, at half volume input from the computer control, I can't go to 100% or even 75% without overwhelming the SA25, while I can go to full blast with the 100LF and it's not distorting. So I guess at the end of the day it's a little louder, and the quality is fine. But feel like I'm not getting 100w.
I'd probably have it boxed up and ready to send back if not for one redeeming thing. In my limited space, the sound from the subs intersect at a 90 deg angle. This is the first time I listened to them together, and they cancel each other. fantastic lesson in audio as that's something I might read about and blow off as theory until it actually really happens. And sure enough, the Dayton phase knob fixes it completely.
So with the phase knob, the fact it works with the headphone out; sigh. Well, if somebody has a ~100w sub amp recommendation, I feel like I need something to compare to see if this thing is working right power wise.
Jm it sounds like you could use a line level signal amplifier / booster. Search those key words.
Do you ever get tired of being right?
I hauled my Denon (future F-150) into the shop and before getting the sub-out working I quit as Steinberg into Denon with headphones; you can tell it's got nothing.
After Amazon delivered some parts I could do the real test of running the Steinberg into my mixer. Max'd out it barely gets to where I can turn the Dayton gain below half for normal listening. Don't dare do a high volume test right now but it's going to do pretty well. Most important I don't hear any hum or noise from the gain.
I hauled my Denon (future F-150) into the shop and before getting the sub-out working I quit as Steinberg into Denon with headphones; you can tell it's got nothing.
After Amazon delivered some parts I could do the real test of running the Steinberg into my mixer. Max'd out it barely gets to where I can turn the Dayton gain below half for normal listening. Don't dare do a high volume test right now but it's going to do pretty well. Most important I don't hear any hum or noise from the gain.
Id like to give you a set of my trademark hockey puck footers. $9.99 and they can compete with anything out there.
Esp good for PA equipment with no wheels that gets stacked. Or whatever ya fancy.
Good Canadian pucks last forever. And sound good too. There going under a sub box. 4 drywall screws per.
Esp good for PA equipment with no wheels that gets stacked. Or whatever ya fancy.
Good Canadian pucks last forever. And sound good too. There going under a sub box. 4 drywall screws per.
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10$ a set or a piece?
how do you attach them, do they twist open or something to mount and then attach the other side? (I don't think I've ever seen a hockey puck IRL)
how do you attach them, do they twist open or something to mount and then attach the other side? (I don't think I've ever seen a hockey puck IRL)
Are you more of a football fan?
I simply drilled out 4 points in pucks for screws.
On larger cabs that get moved a lot pucks take all the abuse then some.
I simply drilled out 4 points in pucks for screws.
On larger cabs that get moved a lot pucks take all the abuse then some.
pretty creative use of an otherwise useless thing. (I'm not a sports fan, hockey or football)
If you meant 10$ + shipping for 4 I'd be crazy to pass it up. I'm sure they are worth much more than that, it's just my sub is only worth about 50$ otherwise.
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In other news, the fam took off last night and so I could finally test the system. The mixer boost definitely did the trick; the + 14db is adequate for low-level listening when you might want a little more bass for certain kinds of music. At higher levels, I turned it down to +10 or so. Well, even if I needed more bass than that, it was getting to the level I worried it might clip. If an 8" Dayton puts out that much bass, can even imagine the 15"s.
If you meant 10$ + shipping for 4 I'd be crazy to pass it up. I'm sure they are worth much more than that, it's just my sub is only worth about 50$ otherwise.
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In other news, the fam took off last night and so I could finally test the system. The mixer boost definitely did the trick; the + 14db is adequate for low-level listening when you might want a little more bass for certain kinds of music. At higher levels, I turned it down to +10 or so. Well, even if I needed more bass than that, it was getting to the level I worried it might clip. If an 8" Dayton puts out that much bass, can even imagine the 15"s.
A good 8 (even being a sealed one) can be adequate in the right room size. Often my single 8 surprised people. Granted it does have a PR in the box.
I bought a sheet of 2x2 sheet of 1/4 mdf just for jig making. I'll make a one- circle - jig - fits - all out of clear acrylic, when I get around to it.
trying out an upgrade. This is the enclosure I built earlier this year; first speaker enclosure, and I put an 18$ Goldwood 6.5" sub in it and was very happy with it, especially for acoustic music. But you know how it is, always looking to improve, and so off and on over the last few months I've scoured PE (and elsewhere) reading reviews on 6.5s. I ended up getting the Tang Band w6. The runner up was the Dynavox LW6, may eventually get that one also, as I'm really curious about it. Ultimately, my xmax curiosity won out, I guess. A key constraint was that I wanted something for the box already built, which is .47cu sealed. When I went cheap with the Goldwood, I just wanted something to get going with the possibility of upgrading later. However, I didn't realize how those inexpensive high qts drivers lock you into a larger box. I'm not sure how much I understand Q even still, but I figure I could cut this box in half and have 2 subs out of it, if needed.
Anyway, it's the w6 reviews that sold me, not the specs. It's a weird driver. On the one hand, c'mon, 50 watts at 83 db sensitivity? By those stats, it may be the worst 6.5" out there. But then on the other, 11.5 mm xmax, and 140 sqi surface area? The other sub I built is an 8" Dayton SD215A-88, so this 6.5 apparently moves 33% more air than my 8. Looked like it should do well in a larger sealed box.
Got super lucky with the replacement. Hole size was close enough, and the weather stripping that curled around the frame of the Goldwood squished nicely under the larger frame of the w6; was really a perfect fit. Definitely did not immediately disappear into the background with my dml panels like the Goldwood did and has taken some dialing in. That low sensitivity required another quarter turn on the SA25 plate amp. Moving it to the Dayton DTA-100LF is a better match. Definitely tight; I get QTC=.55 with this enclosure. I'd say it sounds as huge as the 8; drums are equally big; base notes don't rumble as much, which is probably good technically but open to preference. That's probably what made it harder to figure out where it was at. turning EQ up helps (didn't help on the SA25).
I think it was a successful upgrade. Probably good enough as-is, but will look into passive radiators as a possible final upgrade option.
I purchased the RSS210HF-4 8" for a final sub, to use up the last bits of extra space I have. It arrived, I had all the wood out to cut; I've got a bunch of maple flooring a friend gave me. After measuring, I realized if I could just move my desk to the left an inch, to go wider on the enclosure, I could save a bunch of cutting and splicing. So I undertook the dreaded task of moving the desk. I ended up getting 2"+, so then; crap. Now I have enough space for a 10". So I put all the wood away and deliberated. Opened up Winisd, and went over options. I have a .59 sealed/stuff box with the 39$ Dayton sub in that space, and unfortunately the box wasn't a short build. Well, going from .9 to .59 actually doesn't give up much on paper, and matches xmax to a 100w amp. So, I swapped. Didn't get lucky like I did with the 6.5" swap. The HF is slightly larger than the -88, and since both are made by Dayton, I'd say they messed up on one of them. Unfortunately, my baffle is rosewood. Freehand routing it was a nightmare, and took over an hour not counting breaks. I should have made a template. But it got done and the results seem very good.
If I compare synthwave on the HF vs. the Tang Bang w6, it's hard to say what's better. the W6 blends a little better to my ear and has a ridiculous thump for its size. The HF is thumping lower with less bite. It's synth music, who is to say what the thump is supposed to sound like? But then moving to orchestral or jazz is a different story. The HF absolutely blows the doors off the w6; not even in the same universe. The HF is using the 25w amp for now while the w6 has the 100w. With a double bass walking around, the HF comes to life and effortlessly blasts those twangy plucks out; you feel like that thing is in the room with you.
The thing about audio I'm finding is that everything I get seems to sound good until I get something better. I have something solid now, but I'd like to get a 10 and see what that adds. Having ditched 2 intro drivers, I'd rather be selective and spend more money the first time.
If anyone has a recommendation on a 10, I'm listening. What I'm seeing on paper so far is that doing better than the RSS210HF-4 8" in terms of musical, low ouptut isn't going to be easy. Quality is first priority, SPL is secondary. I value my hearing and really low bass is hard for walls (and windows) to contain at high output; I don't want to get a reputation with neighbors.
If I compare synthwave on the HF vs. the Tang Bang w6, it's hard to say what's better. the W6 blends a little better to my ear and has a ridiculous thump for its size. The HF is thumping lower with less bite. It's synth music, who is to say what the thump is supposed to sound like? But then moving to orchestral or jazz is a different story. The HF absolutely blows the doors off the w6; not even in the same universe. The HF is using the 25w amp for now while the w6 has the 100w. With a double bass walking around, the HF comes to life and effortlessly blasts those twangy plucks out; you feel like that thing is in the room with you.
The thing about audio I'm finding is that everything I get seems to sound good until I get something better. I have something solid now, but I'd like to get a 10 and see what that adds. Having ditched 2 intro drivers, I'd rather be selective and spend more money the first time.
If anyone has a recommendation on a 10, I'm listening. What I'm seeing on paper so far is that doing better than the RSS210HF-4 8" in terms of musical, low ouptut isn't going to be easy. Quality is first priority, SPL is secondary. I value my hearing and really low bass is hard for walls (and windows) to contain at high output; I don't want to get a reputation with neighbors.
Many good choices are available. GRS 10” (GRS 10SW-4HE 10" High Excursion Subwoofer 4 Ohm) is probably the lower end cost wise ($50) for decent performance. I used an Image Dynamics IDQ8 in a ‘Digger 20’ build. This used a 12” passive radiator and it got very low. F3 of 22Hz. The Image Dynamics 10” had 14.5mm XMax, edge wound voice coil and 180 ounces of magnet on a cast frame. This unit, and the similar Dayton, are high performance mid-range cost options at around $150. Several premium options are available at substantially more money. Image Dynamics advertises 28 Hz performance at F3.
IDQ10V4 Subwoofer https://imagedynamicsusa.net/us/en/media/
Good Luck- EVMan
IDQ10V4 Subwoofer https://imagedynamicsusa.net/us/en/media/
Good Luck- EVMan
