I see that I have forgot to mention those in my description but if your connection is permanent and DC connected to the source you don't need pullup/pulldown resistors at all but in case you have a potentiometer, having a coupling cap or if the input can be disconnected the bias currents need a path to other ground or the supply rails. You will need one resistor if you have a dual power supply and two resistors if you have a single supply.
I will make this more clear but the main thing is that you always have a path from the input to somewhere you can get a base current, if not you can have a nasty offset at the output. The documentation says R1 and not R2 and R3. I case you had special needs I added one extra 1 Mohm in the kits.I understand
read you said this before
but you have crossed R3 (post#143)
is new board layout is different ?
(schematic shows input pulldown res as R1)
A trick is to put very little tin on one pad and then place the part and melt the tin. Atfter that solder the other pad normally.gosh, this is very difficult
and lost half of one solder pad(maybe two)
components look 'well cooked'
and probably worse than it looks
I will feel lucky if it works
A trick is to put very little tin on one pad and then place the part and melt the tin. Atfter that solder the other pad normally.
that is exactly what I do holding down with a tool in right hand, and solder iron in left hand all while looking through a magnifier glass
got 10 small lytics today and hopefully correct size this time
http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/1251/0900766b81251945.pdf
3200mA and 24m ohm(0.024) ... that is impressive
http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/1251/0900766b81251945.pdf
3200mA and 24m ohm(0.024) ... that is impressive
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Any news?Any soldered and working buffers?
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