ive been searching the web for plans for a stereo tower speaker. havent really found anything. i took a look a the spawn frugels and was thinking if a got the aiko and made two seperate chambers in the one horn, kind of like the half harvey stacked on top each other. would that work or do i need to keep thinking.
A FAQ list for potential DIY speaker builder should include:
1) room size / listening position / domestic acceptance factor
2) type of music / volume levels
3) amplifier type
Designs as carefully articulated as those of Scott Lindgren's that you mentioned tend to fare poorly when "cut and pasted" to fit different applications, or drivers etc., than those for which they were optimized.
In other words, it can be a crap shoot.
if there's a reson to you to use two drivers than look for the CHR-70 BVR, it can hold two drivers and also seems it can outperform its price
its for my room 10'x10' and im going to use a t-amp thats why i want two speakers. the musics like reggae, hiphop, house and jazz.i like symmetrical designs i looked up the bvr but didnt find plans, only for sale. I want to make it myself. Thanks
well im going to using a t amp and just want to utilize the left and right channel thats all. The drivers are just full range from a 5.1 sound system. Already used them for a portable speaker with spiral horn. but if a but a driver maybe hivi b3n or tang band w3.
😕 Er, call me thick if you want, but I think you'll find most people use the left and right channels of an amplifier. I still haven't the faintest idea what you're talking about. 
Are you saying you want to stack two speakers on top of each other or something?
Are you saying you want to stack two speakers on top of each other or something?sorry so confusing, I would like to make one tall slim speaker system with 2 driver. something like this just an example Frontgate iPod Tower Speaker Dwarfs Your Puny iPod Docks, Sits Neatly In A Corner | CoolThings.com | Anything and Everything Cool
should have put an example earlier
Thanks for replying
should have put an example earlier
Thanks for replying
So you want to build a single tower speaker with at least two drivers in it and would like for it to produce stereo sound? I've seen a couple of designs here but don't remember what they were called or how long ago. What are the drivers you have? Pic?
well call me cynical, I've seen similar contraptions on static display at the local Costco, and it looks like a piece of crap
"Fill the room with sound"? - well I can do that an average of 14 times a day, but I can't imagine anyone would want to listen to it
But all grumpiness aside, if you wanted to emulate something like this for space saving reasons in a room that can't accommodate a small pair of wall or bookshelf mounted boxes, or simply for the "coolness" factor, you probably shouldn't expect particularly great soundstage or imaging performance.
Chris is probably right about /that/ particular model and its claims.
But it could work. If you put it in a corner, and had two side-firing drivers reflecting off the corner's side walls, it could work to some degree. I heard two designs at RMAF which used the walls / ceilings / floor in this way.
One consisted of a pair of "cans" each with an upward and downward firing driver, plus a sub, and it was not hi-fi exactly, but had a huge, if not accurate, sense of stereo.
Another much better design consisted of side-firing midrange and woofers (in a BLH) which were placed very close to the side walls, with front-firing drivers crossed in at 2kHz. It sounds gimmicky but the sound was great. Here's a link: http://www.boenicke-audio.ch/SLS.html
So building something to go into a corner might still have some sense of stereo (if not accuracy) if you use the walls to some advantage, and maybe have front-firing tweeters.
But it could work. If you put it in a corner, and had two side-firing drivers reflecting off the corner's side walls, it could work to some degree. I heard two designs at RMAF which used the walls / ceilings / floor in this way.
One consisted of a pair of "cans" each with an upward and downward firing driver, plus a sub, and it was not hi-fi exactly, but had a huge, if not accurate, sense of stereo.
Another much better design consisted of side-firing midrange and woofers (in a BLH) which were placed very close to the side walls, with front-firing drivers crossed in at 2kHz. It sounds gimmicky but the sound was great. Here's a link: http://www.boenicke-audio.ch/SLS.html
So building something to go into a corner might still have some sense of stereo (if not accuracy) if you use the walls to some advantage, and maybe have front-firing tweeters.
first i would like to thank you guys for putting up with my super vague post.
I definitely want some kind of space saving speaker but the link was just an example. just to give a clearer picture not to recreate that speaker. i understand when take scottmoose designs and copy paste them like chrisb said they lose performance.
maybe i dont need stereo sound but two driver would cool.
im just trying to get a foot print say like the aiko or the harvey (like 7"x12") in to a single speaker system instead of two units.
but if two is the better choice what would be good small foot print but tall speaker you could recommend i build.
using salvaged drivers, cambridge soundworks mc50. no parameters on them. want to make a prototype with these before i put money into some real drivers
I definitely want some kind of space saving speaker but the link was just an example. just to give a clearer picture not to recreate that speaker. i understand when take scottmoose designs and copy paste them like chrisb said they lose performance.
maybe i dont need stereo sound but two driver would cool.
im just trying to get a foot print say like the aiko or the harvey (like 7"x12") in to a single speaker system instead of two units.
but if two is the better choice what would be good small foot print but tall speaker you could recommend i build.
using salvaged drivers, cambridge soundworks mc50. no parameters on them. want to make a prototype with these before i put money into some real drivers
'a drivers needs a dedicated design to give it best'... plus those soundworks cambridge/creative drivers are specially designed for their compact system with integrated equalized amplifiers...
and at least you have access to free wood making a prototype box will cost you as much as a pair of good starting drivers if not more... like the CHR-70, or the pioneer b20 ( Parts-Express.com: Pioneer B20FU20-51FW 8" Full Range Driver | woofer 10" woofer full range speaker pa woofer pioneer )
also consider that with most fullrangers to get a funny punching bass you'll need a sub, and then two small sealed satellites are perhaps possible as well... generally what you want from a fullrange is 'coherence' 'dynamics' 'efficency' and other things i still don't get...
in any case you want to do a single box speaker you'll need to manipulate the signal... making it stereo to mono or splitting bass from the rest of the signal (like the apple i-fi thing that was retired from market) or even some fancy DSP to have it fake stereo imaging... but this will not be quick nor cheaper than a pair of stereo speakers...
and at least you have access to free wood making a prototype box will cost you as much as a pair of good starting drivers if not more... like the CHR-70, or the pioneer b20 ( Parts-Express.com: Pioneer B20FU20-51FW 8" Full Range Driver | woofer 10" woofer full range speaker pa woofer pioneer )
also consider that with most fullrangers to get a funny punching bass you'll need a sub, and then two small sealed satellites are perhaps possible as well... generally what you want from a fullrange is 'coherence' 'dynamics' 'efficency' and other things i still don't get...
in any case you want to do a single box speaker you'll need to manipulate the signal... making it stereo to mono or splitting bass from the rest of the signal (like the apple i-fi thing that was retired from market) or even some fancy DSP to have it fake stereo imaging... but this will not be quick nor cheaper than a pair of stereo speakers...
I should probably apologize for the severity of my earlier comment - while a project like this would be politely classified as a novelty for a lot of us, there's no reason it couldn't be a fun exercise - hell, it could even sound very good. well, OK, let's dial that back a little 🙄
Several have made the suggestion of an enclosure with side firing drivers on angled side panels, and 6" or so mid woofer(s). Pick your favorite flavor of inexpensive 3-4" drivers for the mid/tweets and 6" or so for the lower frequencies. You could probably find something in each category on clearance at Parts Express or similar, cheap enough to allow for dual bass drivers.
We've all seen clearance prices from time to time on drivers that are low enough that the XO passive components could cost more.
Several have made the suggestion of an enclosure with side firing drivers on angled side panels, and 6" or so mid woofer(s). Pick your favorite flavor of inexpensive 3-4" drivers for the mid/tweets and 6" or so for the lower frequencies. You could probably find something in each category on clearance at Parts Express or similar, cheap enough to allow for dual bass drivers.
We've all seen clearance prices from time to time on drivers that are low enough that the XO passive components could cost more.
i would like to keep this project with just a fullrange driver. i know everyone likes the fostex driver, but they have a nice price tag too. with a project like mine (on the novelty level) what are suitable driver that might have similar characteristics to a more quality driver like fostex.
scottmoose do your design have like other suitable driver that i could use.Aiko, harvey and vampyr to be specific. Or are there some certain parameters in drivers that i should be looking for.
thanks
scottmoose do your design have like other suitable driver that i could use.Aiko, harvey and vampyr to be specific. Or are there some certain parameters in drivers that i should be looking for.
thanks
I really liked the Castle Micro towers with twin EL-70's that I heard at Dave's place. The version with one on the face and one on the top is what I auditioned at the DIY Fest in Vicotoria.
A very simple build with no crossover required, but probably needs a sub if you want the lowest octive, but they sounded suprisingly good for such a low cost, quick DIY speaker. It would be a good first build.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/148901-microtower-bipolar-ml-tl-chr-70-el70.html
Mark
A very simple build with no crossover required, but probably needs a sub if you want the lowest octive, but they sounded suprisingly good for such a low cost, quick DIY speaker. It would be a good first build.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/148901-microtower-bipolar-ml-tl-chr-70-el70.html
Mark
Scott would normally be the first to state this, but it looks like human.bin got there first this time:
essentially that means that substituting drivers cannot be assured to give the same performance levels in designs such as Scott's (and others) which are optimized to specific ranges of T/S parameters.
Having said that, have you a particular budget in mind for drivers? If the $34-40 each price range of Fostex, Mark Audio, TangBand, etc., is more than you want to play with, take a look at bargain clearance priced units at Parts Express. No doubt there would be several choices in 3-5" "full rangers", for less than $20 each.
those microtowers are what i was thinking of. it got reading about dipole and bipole. in the microtower pdf theres a speaker name cubbytower. I has speakers on all four sides. could you put the left and right channel in one of these?
You could add a diagonal partition dividing the box into 2 (with a port in each), and use one for left and one for right. You could do the same thing with the regular microTower, drivers on adjacent sides.
dave
since the speakers are diagonally instead of across does this still work as a bipole. or should i make dipole.
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