Hi
I thought that I would do an update:
I have drilled holes for the internal wiring. I have also fixed the speaker wire (QED Silver Micro) and the power wiring with hot glue to seal the holes airtight. This would have been difficult once the cabinet is glued closed. I also made some standoffs for the amplifier and power supply boards using 3mm stainless steel bolts with nylox nuts.
I thought that I would do an update:
I have drilled holes for the internal wiring. I have also fixed the speaker wire (QED Silver Micro) and the power wiring with hot glue to seal the holes airtight. This would have been difficult once the cabinet is glued closed. I also made some standoffs for the amplifier and power supply boards using 3mm stainless steel bolts with nylox nuts.
After a LOT of sanding with 60 grade paper on my orbital sander, the initial stage of finish looks good.
Now I am going to fill in any of the small voids with oak coloured wood filler.
I did not manage to get the very best birch ply available, as I would have had to order it specially, as it would have involved a long drive in the car. This stuff is good enough, and much better than most. There are a few voids though, and a few laminations that are not perfectly solid. The filler should sort this nicely (fingers crossed).
Next, I will sand with 120 paper, then 240 grade. Then I will apply polyvine satin varnish, and sand again with 240 grade. And repeat, and repeat if necessary. I will need to be very careful with the top if I want to keep it looking pristine (I chose the very best piece for the top).
That is it for now.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Now I am going to fill in any of the small voids with oak coloured wood filler.
I did not manage to get the very best birch ply available, as I would have had to order it specially, as it would have involved a long drive in the car. This stuff is good enough, and much better than most. There are a few voids though, and a few laminations that are not perfectly solid. The filler should sort this nicely (fingers crossed).
Next, I will sand with 120 paper, then 240 grade. Then I will apply polyvine satin varnish, and sand again with 240 grade. And repeat, and repeat if necessary. I will need to be very careful with the top if I want to keep it looking pristine (I chose the very best piece for the top).
That is it for now.
Last edited:
Hi
I am still here. Sorry for going off grid. The summer is very busy with family commitments, and it is hard to find Michael time.
The kids are away this weekend, and I have managed to make some progress.
I have routed all the holes for the drivers and the ports. The Jordans are rectangular, so I had to make a jig for the routing. Also, there is not much breathing space for them, so I ground the wood away behind the baffle. It worked quite well.
Tomorrow, I will make all the other holes for the LCD screen for the amp, the power switches, RCAs, the IEC socket, grille attachments etc. I am also going to put a very slight roundover on all the sides of the cabinet.
I am still here. Sorry for going off grid. The summer is very busy with family commitments, and it is hard to find Michael time.
The kids are away this weekend, and I have managed to make some progress.
I have routed all the holes for the drivers and the ports. The Jordans are rectangular, so I had to make a jig for the routing. Also, there is not much breathing space for them, so I ground the wood away behind the baffle. It worked quite well.
Tomorrow, I will make all the other holes for the LCD screen for the amp, the power switches, RCAs, the IEC socket, grille attachments etc. I am also going to put a very slight roundover on all the sides of the cabinet.
Michael,
Very, very fine job on your speaker! Excellently executed and looks terrific. I have the exact same digital amp (DDX320) that I'm working on at the moment too. Getting ready to fit it all into a nice small enclosure that came a couple days ago. Won't be an active speaker, but simply a 3-channel amp. It's cool.
Edit.. How wide is that puppy and how much does it weigh? Looks to be about 36-40"?
Very, very fine job on your speaker! Excellently executed and looks terrific. I have the exact same digital amp (DDX320) that I'm working on at the moment too. Getting ready to fit it all into a nice small enclosure that came a couple days ago. Won't be an active speaker, but simply a 3-channel amp. It's cool.
Edit.. How wide is that puppy and how much does it weigh? Looks to be about 36-40"?
Hello Gents
Apologies for the delay in reporting back.
All is not well, unfortunately. The sound that I am getting is best described as lifeless. It seems hollow and cold. Even the JXR6HDs running fullrange without the bass drivers does not sound very satisfying, nor detailed.
It has been very difficult to ascertain where the problem (or problems) are coming from. I have tried adding more stuffing to the bass cabinet, and removing all of it. I am currently using it without any stuffing. I have tried adding some stuffing to the Jordan units, and now run them without any.
Potential issues:
I have tried every combination of crossover point, and bass level. There are 15 or so different EQ effects, of which only 3 don't sound horrible.
Options:
Ideas? Questions?
The system is definitely listenable, but it really does not live up to expectation given the concept. I am very happy with how it looks. It is very sculptural and exactly what I was aiming for.
Apologies for the delay in reporting back.
All is not well, unfortunately. The sound that I am getting is best described as lifeless. It seems hollow and cold. Even the JXR6HDs running fullrange without the bass drivers does not sound very satisfying, nor detailed.
It has been very difficult to ascertain where the problem (or problems) are coming from. I have tried adding more stuffing to the bass cabinet, and removing all of it. I am currently using it without any stuffing. I have tried adding some stuffing to the Jordan units, and now run them without any.
Potential issues:
- I need some BSC on the full range.
- The bass tuning is not optimum. The TangBand units are running in series, so give an 8Ohm impedance.
- The DDx320 could be rubbish. I have heard mixed reports on these. Some love it, and preferred it to a Buffallo III set up (this was with high efficiency speakers). Others have said that it is only suitable for low-fi applications.
I have tried every combination of crossover point, and bass level. There are 15 or so different EQ effects, of which only 3 don't sound horrible.
Options:
- Continue to adjust stuffing.
- Block the ports and install 2 passive radiators on the rear.
- Give up with the DDX320 and use a miniDSP 2x4 with 2x TPA3116 (which I already have).
- All of the above!
Ideas? Questions?
The system is definitely listenable, but it really does not live up to expectation given the concept. I am very happy with how it looks. It is very sculptural and exactly what I was aiming for.
Last edited:
To diagnose this requires a microphone and measurement of frequency response. Get a calibrated mic (USB ones are nice as you don't have to deal with an additional preamp ADC). Even using the built in mic with your cell phone earbuds or built in mic in laptop is better than nothing. When you say lifeless do you mean lack body and warmth (bass and mid is lacking) or is the treble not present?
Usually the most common cause of lifeless is connecting left and right drivers out of phase. Try connecting one side reverse polarity and see if that helps.
Usually the most common cause of lifeless is connecting left and right drivers out of phase. Try connecting one side reverse polarity and see if that helps.
XRK: I have been meaning to get myself a UMIK1. Maybe this will spur me on to purchase. I think that what is missing is low mid/upper bass. This is tough to identify without a mike.
I will reverse the phase on one of the FR drivers, and see what happens. Interestingly, I have reversed the phase on both of them since first use, as one seemed louder (or more present) than the other.
Pico: The cable between the Connex power supply and the DDx is approx 90cm twisted, so probably 1m straight.
I will reverse the phase on one of the FR drivers, and see what happens. Interestingly, I have reversed the phase on both of them since first use, as one seemed louder (or more present) than the other.
Pico: The cable between the Connex power supply and the DDx is approx 90cm twisted, so probably 1m straight.
You should minimize it
I'd say 20 cm max
(try & report
Just wondering what you think this would do for the lifelessness. All I could think of this doing is decreasing the voltage to the amp due to resistance in the cable, which seems improbable with the low current draw and 1m still being pretty short, or interference, which seems unlikely to cause the lifelessness. Was just curious of your logic.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.