I ordered the AT311EP for $23 from Amazon, I figured if I didn't like it I could return it. Dunno if I could get anything better in the $50 price range though.
A little update:
I'm going to audition a Townshend rock III TT on thursday. Price is good. It has a Goldring eroica cart (not sure which) with 0.4 - 0.5 mV. I heard a Rock many years ago and liked it. Sounds like this may be a better investment than getting a new cart for the Technics.
I'm going to audition a Townshend rock III TT on thursday. Price is good. It has a Goldring eroica cart (not sure which) with 0.4 - 0.5 mV. I heard a Rock many years ago and liked it. Sounds like this may be a better investment than getting a new cart for the Technics.
Spent a few hours looking for reviews of these carts with various posh shaped stylii. Unfortunately I haven't been able to reach a conclusion either. I'm very tempted to spend 250 euros on an Ortofon X1.
Salas:
Will I need the pre-pre if I plug a medium output MC cartridge into the MM RIAA?
I believe the output of the cartridge is around 0.5mv.
Spending 250 EUR given the clever bargain constitution of your now satisfactory system is a leap of faith. If you have no previous experience with MC you should take into account that those are much more demanding beasts for TT uniformity and setup. They extend to HF genuinely when MM are utilizing an electrical loading resonance. They can bring to fore tracking issues and badly mixed cuts. But they bring much more transcription info along too. A normal output MC is usually more revealing than a high MC due to less weight and resistance of its lighter moving mass. Sports less turns for its moving generator. And it will need the pre-pre add on to an existing MM level stage indeed.
A little update:
I'm going to audition a Townshend rock III TT on thursday. Price is good. It has a Goldring eroica cart (not sure which) with 0.4 - 0.5 mV. I heard a Rock many years ago and liked it. Sounds like this may be a better investment than getting a new cart for the Technics.
Sounds like a prudent move.
I ordered the AT311EP for $23 from Amazon, I figured if I didn't like it I could return it. Dunno if I could get anything better in the $50 price range though.
Fine price, let us know how it fared in the end.
The cart arrived today, and I've set it up. Do all T4P carts weigh the same? I couldn't get a tracking force gauge... Tomorrow or soon my ultra-cheap $13 phono preamp will arrive, which I can either mod or rebuild. I want to make Alex Nikitin's MM preamp, but I don't know how to go about getting the right caps.
The AT311EP would seem to be a different kind of cart from the AT92ECD. It appears that the only difference between the AT 300-331 series may be the needle, so if I can find the AT3472LC needle, maybe...
The AT311EP would seem to be a different kind of cart from the AT92ECD. It appears that the only difference between the AT 300-331 series may be the needle, so if I can find the AT3472LC needle, maybe...
Grado is 5.5g, Ortofon is 6g, for AT I could not quickly find about mass. It seems secure to assume they hover at 5-6g standard.
The manual for my turntable seems to say that all T4P carts are the same weight, and this explains why the tracking force adjustment has a 1-1.5g dial, which goes down as the counterweight is moved away from the fulcrum...
Fortifies the impression they follow some mass and compliance norm then. I am no P-Mount user, never was so to confirm of course. What about that cheap phono you are about to receive and modify? Some PC add on OP-AMP job I presume. Correct?
DIYAudio didn't accept my last post for some reason (forum error?), so I must re-type...
Nope. I plan to get an M-Audio 192 for recording and playback... But the pawn shop wouldn't accept my mint Denon AVR588!!! The preamp is a Pyle Pro P444. It seems to be an imitation of the Behringer P400.
PylePro - PP444 - Ultra Compact Phono Turntable Preamp
Stupendous marketing:
I have the cart running right now. Many things sound the same, which could be the preamp and records I'm playing. I'd say it sounds warmer, despite being more detailed and having better instrument separation. Soundfield depth has increased. Realism has increased, except for seeming too "warm". Bass is very tight, seemingly a little faint. I've been listening for little more than an hour so I'm not sure. Before I played I adjusted the tracking force to manual recommended 1.25g, it was at 1g which I realized was extreme and I knew it wasn't the original setting, so this could have affected the sound.
The preamp I'm listening to now is part of a JCPenny 3210 Stereo Receiver. This thing is old, uses STK-blah chip amps, and has HAxxxx chips in it, I didn't look around in it much.
Nope. I plan to get an M-Audio 192 for recording and playback... But the pawn shop wouldn't accept my mint Denon AVR588!!! The preamp is a Pyle Pro P444. It seems to be an imitation of the Behringer P400.
PylePro - PP444 - Ultra Compact Phono Turntable Preamp
Stupendous marketing:
The ultra low-noise audio operational amplifier offers outstanding sound performance.
I have the cart running right now. Many things sound the same, which could be the preamp and records I'm playing. I'd say it sounds warmer, despite being more detailed and having better instrument separation. Soundfield depth has increased. Realism has increased, except for seeming too "warm". Bass is very tight, seemingly a little faint. I've been listening for little more than an hour so I'm not sure. Before I played I adjusted the tracking force to manual recommended 1.25g, it was at 1g which I realized was extreme and I knew it wasn't the original setting, so this could have affected the sound.
The preamp I'm listening to now is part of a JCPenny 3210 Stereo Receiver. This thing is old, uses STK-blah chip amps, and has HAxxxx chips in it, I didn't look around in it much.
That Pyle maybe decent, you scored a give away price for it. Has a metal box is good. With that one it will be more interesting to listen. First thing to do is helping up its outbox supply maybe with a Kean Cmult.
That's an idea. Maybe a CM choke and then the Kmultiplier (or a battery, I have some 12V SLA's sitting around...). I was thinking maybe I should have a separate power strip for my audio stuff, plugged into a line filter. But that won't filter noise from other equipment on the power strip.
Have you ever had one of the moments where you go into a trance and think about how you would design a phono preamp and watch the schematic form through misty tunnel vision, then snap out of it suddenly and forget what you had done? I just had that moment.
Have you ever had one of the moments where you go into a trance and think about how you would design a phono preamp and watch the schematic form through misty tunnel vision, then snap out of it suddenly and forget what you had done? I just had that moment.
I noticed that the P-mount has some vertical play, so I can angle the cart slightly up or down. Not sure what to do here. It doesn't seem to work to push it into the tonarm to make it flush with the mount. But maybe I could use this to my advantage.
Listening to "SRO Herb Alpert and the Tijuana Brass". Nice stuff, but the horns seems to clip the recording equipment, not a surprise I guess.
Listening to "SRO Herb Alpert and the Tijuana Brass". Nice stuff, but the horns seems to clip the recording equipment, not a surprise I guess.
Herb Alpert & the Tijuana Brass The Work Song Video 1966 - YouTube 🙂
That play gives you a bit like VTA change. Nose up or down usually changes brightness. Brass blat and bite is nice program to judge best.
That play gives you a bit like VTA change. Nose up or down usually changes brightness. Brass blat and bite is nice program to judge best.
I notice that the style actually makes audible sound that I can hear when the speakers aren't turned on. I guess it fades away when the speakers are turned on because it's in phase. With this stylus it's louder than the other one. Could this mean increased "compliance"? I wonder how this could apply to speakers. One aspect of low-efficiency speakers is that they are more immune to reflections inside the cabinet. I wonder what are the pros and cons of a more compliant stylus?
I suspect this SRO LP needs a glueing. I'm hearing some kind of distortion I can only imagine must be some residue in the grooves. Other than the the record is very clean, maybe it has been washed many times. The record itself is stiffer then my others, and I think this must indicate a difference in quality, for better or worse.
I suspect this SRO LP needs a glueing. I'm hearing some kind of distortion I can only imagine must be some residue in the grooves. Other than the the record is very clean, maybe it has been washed many times. The record itself is stiffer then my others, and I think this must indicate a difference in quality, for better or worse.
Okay, my records have too much static. I can clean them, but just taking them out of the sleeve attracts every airborn particle in the room. How do you guys keep the static down? I tried rubbing dryer sheets on one, it didn't work.
I notice that the style actually makes audible sound that I can hear when the speakers aren't turned on. I guess it fades away when the speakers are turned on because it's in phase. With this stylus it's louder than the other one. Could this mean increased "compliance"? I wonder how this could apply to speakers. One aspect of low-efficiency speakers is that they are more immune to reflections inside the cabinet. I wonder what are the pros and cons of a more compliant stylus?
Means more groove contact and tip-cantilever vibration. One thing is you upped the VTF to +0.25g and the new tip profile possibly tracks better. Compliance is about the softness of the suspension. Usually allows lower vertical tracking force and correct resonance for lighter body mass carts.
Okay, my records have too much static. I can clean them, but just taking them out of the sleeve attracts every airborn particle in the room. How do you guys keep the static down? I tried rubbing dryer sheets on one, it didn't work.
Special sleeves, antistatic mat, zap guns.
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