I have recorded down to -105dBV (0dBV=1VRMS) @ 20Hz in a 58dB on double 1.2R and 2X60mS input Jfets. No first stage filter, not even RC. 5R input source. So it looks like noise from those regs is low enough. The end noise floor is a safe indication since there is virtually no PSRR in this kind of head amp.
This is Larry I suppose. Yours is the 'Black Onyx', right? Did it have more complex set up than the GEM on the video? How did you decide on the Onyx? Heard it in the RMAF initially?
It was easy to decide, The Price...(no not the retail price either) The Platter and Plinth are really nice, however, the drive sucks. I have very objectionable motor noise. I understand, after the fact, that this was one of his early tables. He claims to have corrected this with his "upgrades". Which is why I am driving to Toronto sometime in January to work out an agreement to correct it. Had I known that I probably wouldn't have bought it. Initially I was only in the market for a really good tonearm and cartirdge. The person / dealer I bought it from did a good job of keeping the volume low during the lead tracks. Have to love remotes for that.
Actually the set-up is similar, The Onyx is a bit more massive and has four feet which make leveling a little more cumbersom.
The tricky part is setting up the remote arm pod. Takes a little practice.
The dynamics of the table make it worth while. They are incredible! Larry is really on to something with his metal composite platter and plinth.
If I can not work out an agreeable solution to the problem then this table will be modded in the diy forum. I do think however, that the issue is with the actual motor drive tuning. It seems to have a bit of torque related cogging. If not it will grow an external rim drive.;-)
Actually the set-up is similar, The Onyx is a bit more massive and has four feet which make leveling a little more cumbersom.
The tricky part is setting up the remote arm pod. Takes a little practice.
The dynamics of the table make it worth while. They are incredible! Larry is really on to something with his metal composite platter and plinth.
If I can not work out an agreeable solution to the problem then this table will be modded in the diy forum. I do think however, that the issue is with the actual motor drive tuning. It seems to have a bit of torque related cogging. If not it will grow an external rim drive.;-)
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When you will solve the cogging nuisance you will have one hell of a flawless TT system. Top gear stuff.
I wanted a reference system to compare my DIY stuff with. Not many people in my neck of the woods that are into this stuff to get opinions. (Actually not many people in this part of the woods period).
At heart I am still pure DIY. After playing with the Pheonix, I became very aware that I had ALOT to learn. For right now I want to focus on the electronics and perhaps revisit my speaker design.
I actually still want to build my own Super Table, but for right now this will have to do....
At heart I am still pure DIY. After playing with the Pheonix, I became very aware that I had ALOT to learn. For right now I want to focus on the electronics and perhaps revisit my speaker design.
I actually still want to build my own Super Table, but for right now this will have to do....
Now that you mentioned electronics, how did 1.2R fit in your system tonally on early impression?
Initially it seemed to be a step back. The dynamics were compressed and the soundstage squeezed a little in the center. The sound was changing rapidly for the better as I listened to it. After an hour or so I was starting to notice that the dynamics were returning and the stage was opening up again. I would rather wait a little before I comment or commit. I figure the caps need a little time on them, particularly the 47uF electrolytic. I did notice that tonally the sound seemed to have more weight in the mids. Again lets let this burn in over the next day or so. I also want to watch the voltage drift. It is creeping on 43Volts right now.
For that Cap I bought two types to try. The one installed is the Vishay Sprague type 678D which list the impedance at 0.18 at 100kHz. I also have the FC ones as back-up.
For that Cap I bought two types to try. The one installed is the Vishay Sprague type 678D which list the impedance at 0.18 at 100kHz. I also have the FC ones as back-up.
Give it 48 hours. Also see its set to 45V after half an hour with the lid closed, not initially.
I will keep it in for a while. Your question made me throw an album on. One impression that I should have mentioned before is that it is absolute black. Utter, Total, Complete silence between the notes. It really brings out the ambience of the studio or hall the piece was recorded in.
With new electrolytics there is a reforming period. Also don't miss the opportunity to fit the FC which has the ESR I designed and tested around. Low noise is a very good sign non the less.
The FC had a listed impedance of .35 which was at the top of your range. If it doesn't open up after a few days I will put in the FC.
I bought some of the vishay caps also for the LED bypass one the new preamp. That is going to breadboard soon.
I bought some of the vishay caps also for the LED bypass one the new preamp. That is going to breadboard soon.
Welcome to V1.2R sound courtesy of Mr. Salas🙂 (thanks again Nick), did you use the same current in the reg like the V1.0 remote sense? BTW I use Pana FC for the 47uF lytic.
Don't bias the listener. 1.2R could be best to some of us unanimously by now, that does not mean that 1.2 can't be better in another system. All those regs will have an optimum system for synergy. Its fortunate there are three options.
Yes you are right (Its fortunate there are three options), I prefer V1.0 remote sense in my unbalanced phono & V1.2R in my balanced phono😉 that's the reason that I asked SGregory his subjective opinion.
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