Just like on the above diagram on post #6 : Pins #5 & 7 are unused ones so can be used like terminal strips on P2P amps.
I would say the correct free end of the diode would have to be the banded end if you look at the diagram and Simple SE schematic.
See post #8 also as no one corrected me on that instruction either (No Smoke!)
I would say the correct free end of the diode would have to be the banded end if you look at the diagram and Simple SE schematic.
See post #8 also as no one corrected me on that instruction either (No Smoke!)
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Thanks for the reply. But I was referring to Tubelab's comment for wiring it into the SSE.
In that case as I understand he's suggesting not wiring the diode to the unused pin. But rather one end of the diode is on the transformer's wire, the other end gets screwed into the SSE transformer connection to the board.
So in that case, my question is, does the band on the diode go towards the transformer, or the transformer connection to the board?
In that case as I understand he's suggesting not wiring the diode to the unused pin. But rather one end of the diode is on the transformer's wire, the other end gets screwed into the SSE transformer connection to the board.
So in that case, my question is, does the band on the diode go towards the transformer, or the transformer connection to the board?
If you trace the diagram schematic that gives you the correct answer which is the banded ends always goes to the tube rectifier so in the SSE the diode banded end at the PCB terminal strip won't let out any smoke.
So as you worded it "the transformer connection to the board? " is correct!
So as you worded it "the transformer connection to the board? " is correct!
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If you have an SSE board purchased in the past two years the diodes are already on the PC board. These are the two small (1N4007 size) diodes added near the rectifier tube.
If you are adding the diodes to an existing build or building up an old board, then yes, the banded end of the diode gets stuck in the connector on the board and the other end gets soldered to the red (on a Hammond or other transformer that uses standard colors) transformer wires.
If you are adding the diodes to an existing build or building up an old board, then yes, the banded end of the diode gets stuck in the connector on the board and the other end gets soldered to the red (on a Hammond or other transformer that uses standard colors) transformer wires.
I ordered my board in May of 2012. But I think It's an older one. I don't recall the options for the diodes. I'll have to double check. It was built in July 2012 and has been running like champ ever since. I've rolled through a few rectifiers. Recently I threw the original JJ 5ar4/gz34 back in and it sparked and blew a couple of fuses (it never did that before). So I decided not to use that tube again. I've been using an old Tung Sol 5v4g lately anyway. That tube is 71 years old, and it works. I ordered a Sino 5ar4 for the TSE I'm working on. I plugged it into my SSE and it flashed too, did not blow a fuse. So I figured while I'm ordering parts for the TSE, I'd order the diodes and an Inrush limiter for the HT on the SSE, already have the cl-90 on the mains.
Thanks. I love my SSE and really appreciate all you've done and all the advice i've gotten from the forum community as well.
Thanks. I love my SSE and really appreciate all you've done and all the advice i've gotten from the forum community as well.
April 2012 was the date I got the new boards, so I was probably still shipping the old ones in May, but I can't be sure either.
I have seen brand new JJ and Sovtek 5AR4's spark out on power up. I have a couple of old RCA branded Sylvanias that I have been using in whatever amp I am using at the moment. They are reliable even in an amp with a 100 uF input cap.
If the coating on the cathode is not of uniform thickness the thinner spots warm up the quickest, and attempt to handle all the tubes initial current resulting in a flashover. In this case the thin area gets damaged and the tube is likely not going to recover.
I have seen old tubes with good cathodes spark over and keep working. It's quite common in an overloaded 5U4, they will spark a few times during power up, then run fine.
I have seen brand new JJ and Sovtek 5AR4's spark out on power up. I have a couple of old RCA branded Sylvanias that I have been using in whatever amp I am using at the moment. They are reliable even in an amp with a 100 uF input cap.
If the coating on the cathode is not of uniform thickness the thinner spots warm up the quickest, and attempt to handle all the tubes initial current resulting in a flashover. In this case the thin area gets damaged and the tube is likely not going to recover.
I have seen old tubes with good cathodes spark over and keep working. It's quite common in an overloaded 5U4, they will spark a few times during power up, then run fine.
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