I finished my speakers. I used 20mm Oak wood for the front baffle and 15mm birch plywood for the rest.
I ran REW program and here is the frequency response in my living room.
Many thanks to Nikonoclast and Dave !
Kim.
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hello gentlemen.
I have these speaker elements already sitting on the shelf for years. Eventually, I would also like to make enclosures for them. I really like how Niconoclast did it, but I would like to sink the speakers into the first panel -6mm, but then it hits the edge panel and I don't like the way it looks. I would like to make the first panel 170mm wide, but then the enclosure calculation goes wrong. Can anyone help me with this please.
many thanks!
I have these speaker elements already sitting on the shelf for years. Eventually, I would also like to make enclosures for them. I really like how Niconoclast did it, but I would like to sink the speakers into the first panel -6mm, but then it hits the edge panel and I don't like the way it looks. I would like to make the first panel 170mm wide, but then the enclosure calculation goes wrong. Can anyone help me with this please.
many thanks!
Just finished my build in 3/4" MDF with oak veneer. Sounding pretty good with some light DSP. Thanks Nikonoclast for the plans
Planned to do my first speaker project with Tang Band W5-2143.
I was simply noodling around in WinISD and I feel even giving an input power of 10 watts is making it exceed its Xmax of 2.5mm. This driver is rated as 30 watts RMS by manufacturer.
Could someone throw some light on this?
I was simply noodling around in WinISD and I feel even giving an input power of 10 watts is making it exceed its Xmax of 2.5mm. This driver is rated as 30 watts RMS by manufacturer.
Could someone throw some light on this?
@frankbery These kind of drivers are never gonna be very loud, it's a 5" driver that does it all. 5W brings you to xmax in that tuning, but hat is theoretical already 98dB for a single one in free air, so a pair is 101dB. That is louder than you normally would play in your house (normal levels are between 70 and 90dB, 90dB is already very loud).
The watt rating of a driver is mostly seen as the max watt the magnet can handle, not the cone. That's why this driver is rated 30W while the xmax is reached at 5W.
The watt rating of a driver is mostly seen as the max watt the magnet can handle, not the cone. That's why this driver is rated 30W while the xmax is reached at 5W.
Another way at looking at it at the bass end in particular is cone movement for the same spl needs to increase. The lower the F the more the cone needs to move. This doesn't really directly relate to box tuning just the F range someone is trying to cover. A smaller box would lift the bass cut off, a larger one increase it, The cone movement can still exceed xmax in either case.
It's not unusual to use 2 speaker chassis to help with this but the box volume will need doubling for the same bass end coverage.
The other aspect is levels in what ever is being listened too. A bass drum for instance is likely to be loud but F is unlikely to be under 100Hz.
Another comment I have read helps after a fashion. It went 110dB at 20Hz doesn't sound loud and needs 1kw to achieve it. 😉 Who is going to produce music that needs that when hardly anyone could listen to it. On the other hand some like to feel rather than just hear their bass. My experience when I have heard kit that can get down to these very low audible levels is that I wouldn't get too excited about missing it, Levels if there are relatively low so the speaker is likely to be ok even if it can't cover it.
The power ratings are based on thermal dissipation that the voice coil / former / suspension / magnet can handle before melting. They assume you have a high pass filter to prevent the cone from reaching xmax. The ratings are usually for “music power” - an average of many typical frequencies encountered in music. Music power is a lot less than single frequency sine wave power. A plain sine wave at 1kHz and 30w will probably fry the voice coil. Think how hot a 30w soldering iron gets. Some speakers use continuous RMS power (usually pro audio drivers) because they actually need to run their speakers loud all the time to fill an auditorium.
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