Folks:
I'm in the final stages of gathering the parts for several F5 Turbo builds and was wondering how best to attach 18 to 14 gauge wires to hand-made power supply pcbs (thank you Buzzforb!) using some kind of mechanical connection instead of simply soldering them in place. Because the holes in the ps pcb were drilled by hand, they aren't uniform distances apart. That means discrete connections for each wire. I was imagining something that could be soldered to the pcb that would mate with a terminal crimp connector, or a single screw terminal block. I found something like the former on mouser: 1217061-1 Product Details - TE, except I need with only one solderable pin.
Any recommendations?
Regards,
Scott
I'm in the final stages of gathering the parts for several F5 Turbo builds and was wondering how best to attach 18 to 14 gauge wires to hand-made power supply pcbs (thank you Buzzforb!) using some kind of mechanical connection instead of simply soldering them in place. Because the holes in the ps pcb were drilled by hand, they aren't uniform distances apart. That means discrete connections for each wire. I was imagining something that could be soldered to the pcb that would mate with a terminal crimp connector, or a single screw terminal block. I found something like the former on mouser: 1217061-1 Product Details - TE, except I need with only one solderable pin.
Any recommendations?
Regards,
Scott
Hi there,
I once had the same problem, look at these, they work very well!!
Connectors :: Power & Mains :: Tapped PCB Terminals - Spiratronics - The Home of Project Electronics
I once had the same problem, look at these, they work very well!!
Connectors :: Power & Mains :: Tapped PCB Terminals - Spiratronics - The Home of Project Electronics
I use something like the Molex 39100-0802 for power wires 22 to 12 ga. It is two screw design, so one side goes to the diode fuse or capacitor, one wire goes off the board to the transformer or whatever. I screw them to the board with one or two 4-40 screws with elastic stop nuts. This way, whatever the yanking around, the wires are pretty stuck, and the connection is gas tight. they'll also take 3 mm screws but I have a bigger US machine screw inventory. This way I don't have to worry about the solder pins on the botom (molex 39880-0302) being too short for 1/8" thick Nema C laminate, which will handle 2 pound capacitor sandwiches or big relays being whacked around as the amp is moved to gigs or whatever.
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http://www.apexjr.com/images/EUROTERMINALBLOCK1.jpg
These Euro terminal blocks are fairly idiot proof...
These Euro terminal blocks are fairly idiot proof...
Folks:
Thanks for the suggestions. I was actually looking for something like a heavy duty version of a single pin header (e.g., 929834-01-01 3M Electronic Solutions Division | Mouser) and its corresponding female connector; I need something capable of handling more than 2.5 amps. That said, the Euro terminal block idea may be the way to go.
Any other thoughts?
Regards,
Scott
Thanks for the suggestions. I was actually looking for something like a heavy duty version of a single pin header (e.g., 929834-01-01 3M Electronic Solutions Division | Mouser) and its corresponding female connector; I need something capable of handling more than 2.5 amps. That said, the Euro terminal block idea may be the way to go.
Any other thoughts?
Regards,
Scott
I found something like the former on mouser: 1217061-1 Product Details - TE, except I need with only one solderable pin
drill another hole? - doesn't have to electrically connect but improves mech stability - epoxy undsoldered pin/hole after soldering other for even better mech
I have a bunch of these binding posts that came with my class d amplifiers. They're intended for speaker wire, but certainly rated to hold up to power connections. And they screw into a single hole on the PCB (pretty big hole though).
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