Hi Chris,
I shall do that and take detailed photos to further check for any damage to the teeth. If it is the teeth, that means i would have to get another gear?
Sam
I shall do that and take detailed photos to further check for any damage to the teeth. If it is the teeth, that means i would have to get another gear?
Sam
Hi Sam,
Sure, but you can see the damage clearly once you remove the grease. Just look closely
-Chris
Sure, but you can see the damage clearly once you remove the grease. Just look closely
-Chris
Hi Chris,
It would be like last time, i did not remove the head but manually moved the laser head assembly along to clean off the old grease. The teeth if damaged would that be on the lower one, if so i would have to screw the top off? anyway will investigate
Sam
It would be like last time, i did not remove the head but manually moved the laser head assembly along to clean off the old grease. The teeth if damaged would that be on the lower one, if so i would have to screw the top off? anyway will investigate
Sam
HI Sam,
Yes, just take out the gears and use a toothbrush to remove the grease. Where the teeth mesh you might find they are bent or partly torn out. There isn't any play in these gears, so if they hit the end of the travel and have enough power driving them, it'll simply chew the gears up. You might have lost the teeth on the rack on the head, so take it all apart and look at everything carefully, and under a bright light.
I'm hoping they are okay, but better you know than just guessing. A Sony mechanism for another, similar head might have compatible gears and motors. Of course, since you would have an entirely new transport, you would just install it. Look for the KSS-210 complete mechanism if you need the gears.
-Chris
Yes, just take out the gears and use a toothbrush to remove the grease. Where the teeth mesh you might find they are bent or partly torn out. There isn't any play in these gears, so if they hit the end of the travel and have enough power driving them, it'll simply chew the gears up. You might have lost the teeth on the rack on the head, so take it all apart and look at everything carefully, and under a bright light.
I'm hoping they are okay, but better you know than just guessing. A Sony mechanism for another, similar head might have compatible gears and motors. Of course, since you would have an entirely new transport, you would just install it. Look for the KSS-210 complete mechanism if you need the gears.
-Chris
Hi Chris,
Hopefully the KSS-210 will have the gears i need. Now i see why I was having issues at the end of disc, and the occasional skip.
Teeth on the white cog are munched. The laser head i am not sure how to take it off, but its teeth look fine
I guess I will have to be in contact with seller. I love the player, so a replacement gear or mechanism is needed
I wonder is this place is safe?
Aliexpress.com : Buy New Track Gear For KSS 150A KSS 240 KSS 210B KSS 213C Mechanism Trail gear wheel from Reliable gear factory suppliers on KMX TECH
or maybe this place, i could get a friend in the USA to post if they dont post?
CD Mechanism with KSS-210A laser pick-up and a tray COMPLETE
Regards
Sam
Hopefully the KSS-210 will have the gears i need. Now i see why I was having issues at the end of disc, and the occasional skip.
Teeth on the white cog are munched. The laser head i am not sure how to take it off, but its teeth look fine
I guess I will have to be in contact with seller. I love the player, so a replacement gear or mechanism is needed
I wonder is this place is safe?
Aliexpress.com : Buy New Track Gear For KSS 150A KSS 240 KSS 210B KSS 213C Mechanism Trail gear wheel from Reliable gear factory suppliers on KMX TECH
or maybe this place, i could get a friend in the USA to post if they dont post?
CD Mechanism with KSS-210A laser pick-up and a tray COMPLETE
Regards
Sam
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi Sam,
That's exactly what I expected to see. That's what happened when you tested the feed motor and the sled hit the end. That's why we want to motor to be driven just enough to turn and not any more power than that.
I haven't a clue where it's safe to buy this stuff anymore. My suppliers closed down years ago. My one source really hurt when he shut down. Everything was legitimate that he sold.
-Chris
That's exactly what I expected to see. That's what happened when you tested the feed motor and the sled hit the end. That's why we want to motor to be driven just enough to turn and not any more power than that.
I haven't a clue where it's safe to buy this stuff anymore. My suppliers closed down years ago. My one source really hurt when he shut down. Everything was legitimate that he sold.
-Chris
Hi Chris,
I think it was like that maybe before and this the sled hitting the end did more damage. i only use 3.5v - 4.5v, too much, needed something like 2v or something
WES has some, this catalog is old 2004
I think it was like that maybe before and this the sled hitting the end did more damage. i only use 3.5v - 4.5v, too much, needed something like 2v or something
WES has some, this catalog is old 2004
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Hi Chris,
I am waiting for the email, but from memory the KSS-150A laser was 45$. This is the place my friend who a tech, now makes dacs, said he had 3 lasers dead from them, but at least they use paypal! I need that mech ! for parts.
Regards
Sam
Online Catalogue | Wagner Electronics
I am waiting for the email, but from memory the KSS-150A laser was 45$. This is the place my friend who a tech, now makes dacs, said he had 3 lasers dead from them, but at least they use paypal! I need that mech ! for parts.
Regards
Sam
Online Catalogue | Wagner Electronics
Hi Sam,
Yes, but they have look-alike Chinese motors that are terrible. I'm pretty certain that the $13 mechanisms are with those. Also, there are KSS-240A and KSS-210A without the brass bearings for the slide rail. The angles of the pictures never seem to show that area.
-Chris
Yes, but they have look-alike Chinese motors that are terrible. I'm pretty certain that the $13 mechanisms are with those. Also, there are KSS-240A and KSS-210A without the brass bearings for the slide rail. The angles of the pictures never seem to show that area.
-Chris
Hi Chris
so you think they are using the cheaper mechs and selling them for more.
just realised i could search the codes on the retail website
KSM150B mech is $45.05 and KSS150A laser is $45.05
The original motors are made in taiwan I think on my KSS-150A mech.
so you think they are using the cheaper mechs and selling them for more.
just realised i could search the codes on the retail website
KSM150B mech is $45.05 and KSS150A laser is $45.05
The original motors are made in taiwan I think on my KSS-150A mech.
Hi Chris,
I went to play it again on the first track, was fine at first then all static etc? Laser failing? or is it due to the stuffed cog wheel thing? It was only track 1
I went to play it again on the first track, was fine at first then all static etc? Laser failing? or is it due to the stuffed cog wheel thing? It was only track 1
KSS-210a based CD player not spinning
I believe the laser unit has died. CD will load, does not spin. The laser does go through calibration attempting to focus, then CD is ejected. I video'd using iphone, forward camera. Only in dark conditions can I see a faint light. Only scope and DVM. I don't believe I have anything sophisticated enough to follow latched signals. If I was able to acquire a KSS-210 with brass inserts is switching a plug and play? Would the unit require any special tools or testing equipment?
thanks.
mc
I believe the laser unit has died. CD will load, does not spin. The laser does go through calibration attempting to focus, then CD is ejected. I video'd using iphone, forward camera. Only in dark conditions can I see a faint light. Only scope and DVM. I don't believe I have anything sophisticated enough to follow latched signals. If I was able to acquire a KSS-210 with brass inserts is switching a plug and play? Would the unit require any special tools or testing equipment?
thanks.
mc
Very good advice.
The slide rail does often develop cracks which causes the laser head to stick and jump. I've had good success by smoothing the cracks with very fine abrasive paper.
Also, it is very worthwhile to remove the black plastic lens shroud and clean the underside of the objective lens and top of the collimating lens. On a dirty mech I've picked up more than 0.2V pk-pk on the eye pattern just by doing this.
In the days when KSS replacements were of good quality they were pretty much 'plug and play' although a good tech could always tweak the usual settings to get the very optimum RF quality.
KSS210 with brass inserts I believe are long gone and the generic replacements are just plastic. They are cheap enough to take a gamble on.
Thank you for your responses. The spindle motor? Would the issue be windings or brushes? ie , can I measure whether the motor has gone bad? The player was working with no issue, then, next evening's listen would not load a C.d. It was not a gradual symptom. thanks again. So much knowledge and help in here. amazong.
Spindle motor issues are usually brush related. A quick fix (it does work but is considered a bit of a bodge) is to run the motor up from a 9 volt battery for a few seconds in each direction.
I suppose one measurement would be to at the ripple/noise across the motor but this is not normally done and in any case you would need a reference value to work to to judge if the motor was defective (unless obviously massively noisy). This is something we used to do with early VHS video recorder drum motors and it was an accepted and approved method.
You MUST isolate the spindle motor first if you try zapping it with a battery.
I suppose one measurement would be to at the ripple/noise across the motor but this is not normally done and in any case you would need a reference value to work to to judge if the motor was defective (unless obviously massively noisy). This is something we used to do with early VHS video recorder drum motors and it was an accepted and approved method.
You MUST isolate the spindle motor first if you try zapping it with a battery.