Signal filter for infrasound (1-20Hz)

Hi! I have a 12'' woofer driver with RMS about 500w. With this i only want to play frequencies between 1-20Hz. Looking for either
  • amplifier with a cross-over that goes down to 1Hz.
  • signal processor that can filter out above 20Hz and leave all below.
  • passive filter for such a driver. This would probably be the last option as it would be unreasonable waste of energy etc.

One option would be to buy the Eminent amplifier for rotary TRW-17. Are there other options? I have tried Behringer 2496, but this didn't pass low-end signals... I guess most of the equipment is designed for usage from 20Hz and higher.

This doesn't have to be "as cheap as possible." I am happy, if any working solution is proposed 🙂
 
12" driver won't do anything with a 1Hz signal, other that heat-up and cook its windings. You'd need a hermetically sealed room and something much larger for infrasound that low, or more practically a driver that goes down to DC (the one's set in the wall using silenced fan tech: http://www.rotarywoofer.com/).

BTW even 24" extreme subwoofer drivers only reckon to go down to 10Hz...
 
And there's not a lot to listen to down there. Possibly more truck rumble, HVAC infrasound, and control voltage bleed-through than music or intentional sound effects. Most studios aren't equipped to reproduce those frequencies, nor are movie theatres or the vast majority of home cinemas.
 
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Well, there are 16 Hz organ notes, dinosaur stomps, depth charges and helicopters. See the "Way Down Deep" series of subwoofer reviews.
https://www.soundandvision.com/content/way-down-deep-i
In reality, though, I don't encounter much stuff that even goes as low as the 30s. And that's low enough to feel rather than hear. Below that, you're better off using tactile transducers. Search for diy bass shakers; it's quite easy to modify a woofer with a rotten surround.
 
Passive reactive components of sufficient component Q factor don't waste energy. They may be large.
Actually, they all waste some energy. The size that’s probably required is a 2500 foot spool of #2/0 copper. It might give you enough inductance to make a 20Hz filter, keep the ESR low enough and not saturate at 8 amps. Large enough for you?

A 12” woofer moving in and out at 1 Hz rate to full excursion can’t be felt let alone heard. An 8mm x-max woofer running to the stops at 18 Hz, however, will make one queasy. You don’t hear a thing, but it makes it feel like your head is about to implode. It only takes about 25W to do it.
 
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My point was that a reactance does not consume energy as heat. It is a common misconception that passive circuits can only attenuate and they consume energy in the process.

As far as wanting infrasound, I'm not a fan either.
 
In theory you can make an LC network lossless, but at low frequency it’s hard to do and at high frequency you usually don’t want it. A practical 50 mH inductor is going to be lossy - it’s just the reality of realizing one. Most multi-way networks have intentional loss as you go up in frequency - to keep the (more efficient) highs from ripping you new eardrums. Probably where the “misconception” comes from - most use cases have dissipative loss.

I don’t need a lot of infrasound either. My ‘best’ hi fi speaker pair is flat to about 23, and doesn’t play much content below 40. But it sounds to me more natural with music that goes to 40 than speakers that stop there.
 
I agree, but there is a difference between primary filtering losses and secondary parasitic losses. When a resistor is used as a filtering element it can take a portion of the filtered energy at a given frequency.. but a parasitic loss is not so related to the filtering process and is dependent on practical device related matters which, due to them also affecting the quality of filtering achieved, are kept small where possible.
 
This doesn't have to be "as cheap as possible." I am happy, if any working solution is proposed 🙂
I don't think there is any working solution. Your driver is physically unsuitable to reproduce in that range.
I think you need the amplifier for the rotary woofer AND the rotary woofer. Then you could have some fun. 🙂

Pushing really low frequencies into 12" woofers is good for visual fun, but that's it.

Dave.