On second thoughts, with an 8 ohm tweeter it may be kinder to the tweeter to use a 2.2 uF film capacitor.
If that's not available to you, go with the 3.3 uF.
If that's not available to you, go with the 3.3 uF.
Thank you, I will keep updating everyone on my progress. any suggestions or advice are welcome here ^ ^
how about the power will the amp supply enough power for 2 pairs or just 1. Should I switch up to a more powerful one like tpa3116, tpa3110,tpa3118,...
The PAM8610 is a stereo amp module and each channel should see no less that 4 ohm impedance.
Your speaker systems as shown in post #1 will each have a nominal impedance of 4 ohm.
See post #6. If you parallel two speaker systems, the impedance will drop to 2 ohm each side, which would damage the module.
You could wire two speaker systems in series to produce a safe 8 ohm load for each channel.
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You can not use a normal (polarised) electrolytic capacitor, like the black one you show, for loudspeaker crossover use.
You need either a film capacitor or a non-polarised (NP) electrolytic capacitor intended for loudspeaker crossover use.
Its not the power rating that is important here, it is the ability of the amplifier to run comfortably into the impedance presented by the loudspeaker system.
In a nutshell:
1) ONE stereo PAM8610 will drive ONE cabinet per channel.
2) Each cabinet will have 1 x 4 ohm woofer plus 1 x 8 ohm tweeter.
3) woofer will be wired straight to input connector; tweeter too, BUT with a film or bipolar capacitor in series with the "+" terminal.
4) personally I would use a 2.2uF bipolar capacitor there, because it is a "slow" crossover, only 6 dB per octave, so not that good keeping lower frequencies away from that tiny (3/4") tweeter.
IF it were a better 12 dB/oct crossover, yes, I would use a 3.9 to 4.7uF capacitor, plus the appropriate inductor so one octave lower and nominally "better", but since it´s not the case, better safe than sorry.
5) for those worried about impedance: nominally in parallel, but typically at the highish crossover frequency, woofer won´t show 4 ohm impedance any more but a significantly higher one, so no big deal.
All woofers have an "invisible", "built in" series inductor, which is the parasitic series inductance, which is even shown in the datasheet Thiele Small parameters, go figure.
1) ONE stereo PAM8610 will drive ONE cabinet per channel.
2) Each cabinet will have 1 x 4 ohm woofer plus 1 x 8 ohm tweeter.
3) woofer will be wired straight to input connector; tweeter too, BUT with a film or bipolar capacitor in series with the "+" terminal.
4) personally I would use a 2.2uF bipolar capacitor there, because it is a "slow" crossover, only 6 dB per octave, so not that good keeping lower frequencies away from that tiny (3/4") tweeter.
IF it were a better 12 dB/oct crossover, yes, I would use a 3.9 to 4.7uF capacitor, plus the appropriate inductor so one octave lower and nominally "better", but since it´s not the case, better safe than sorry.
5) for those worried about impedance: nominally in parallel, but typically at the highish crossover frequency, woofer won´t show 4 ohm impedance any more but a significantly higher one, so no big deal.
All woofers have an "invisible", "built in" series inductor, which is the parasitic series inductance, which is even shown in the datasheet Thiele Small parameters, go figure.
Absolutely!
When I first posted, I had missed the fact that it was an 8 ohm tweeter and calculated for a 4 ohm tweeter!
2.2 uF is the safe way to go.
the 'input connector here' you mean the output on the pam8610 or my audio source ?
it would be great if you drew a diagram, it would help me understand your idea better . Thank you
JMF is not telling you anything different from what I have already shared with you.
https://hificompass.com/en/speakers/measurements/vifa/vifa-oc25sc65-04
Our friend from HifiCompass has tested that tweeter and supplied his usual abundance of data for it. It is 4 ohm, not 8.
Edit: google tricked me a little there, slightly different model number. Peerless seem to do lots of OEM variations of their drivers, but HC's data should still get you into the ballpark.
Our friend from HifiCompass has tested that tweeter and supplied his usual abundance of data for it. It is 4 ohm, not 8.
Edit: google tricked me a little there, slightly different model number. Peerless seem to do lots of OEM variations of their drivers, but HC's data should still get you into the ballpark.
The model number in the picture is oc25sc24-04, pointing very much to a 4 ohm version.
The data given by the seller are pure fiction.
The data given by the seller are pure fiction.
I was referring to this image.
Anyway, putting together a speaker from random parts sold by a dodgy source without reputable data, and without the equipment to measure for yourself, is not exactly a recipe for blissful sound. Impedance is just a piece in the puzzle, without the others it's pretty meaningless.