I would like to build an amp for my speakers with high efficiency single full range drivers, one has small Fostex drivers and the other has Audio Nirvana Super 8's. I am really a novice at Audio electronics, my only completed project is a B1 buffer which has been working great for many years.
I have read everything I could find on DIY Audio about the F2. I know that it is a specialized amp, but why was it not more popular. I know that Peter Daniels still has F2 boards for sale. My intention would be to build it to the original F2 design.
I have on hand the Peter Daniel's F2 boards and also one of his power supply boards. I have 6 IRFP240 and 6 IRFP9240 mosfets. Also I have 2 big beautiful heat sinks and various rca and speaker connectors.
I would appreciate comments on my pending Digi-Key order. I am trying to keep my costs down, though I would consider spending a little more if it would produce noticeably better sound.
How can I share a copy of my Digi-Key order for comment?
LED1 is missing from my order. I would appreciate suggestions on blue LED's that would fit on the boards.
Here our some pictures of what I have:
Untitled by vonfilm, on Flickr
Untitled by vonfilm, on Flickr
Untitled by vonfilm, on Flickr
I have read everything I could find on DIY Audio about the F2. I know that it is a specialized amp, but why was it not more popular. I know that Peter Daniels still has F2 boards for sale. My intention would be to build it to the original F2 design.
I have on hand the Peter Daniel's F2 boards and also one of his power supply boards. I have 6 IRFP240 and 6 IRFP9240 mosfets. Also I have 2 big beautiful heat sinks and various rca and speaker connectors.
I would appreciate comments on my pending Digi-Key order. I am trying to keep my costs down, though I would consider spending a little more if it would produce noticeably better sound.
How can I share a copy of my Digi-Key order for comment?
LED1 is missing from my order. I would appreciate suggestions on blue LED's that would fit on the boards.
Here our some pictures of what I have:
Untitled by vonfilm, on FlickrUntitled by vonfilm, on FlickrUntitled by vonfilm, on Flickr
Coincidentally, I pulled an F2 off the shelf last week to mate with a pair
of Lowther DX55's for BAF.
Alas, I had to realign the voice coil in the gap for one, and the fix did not stick
for more than a minute at a time, and I don't have the time for a new
re-cone job. I will be taking the SALs I showed last year, but not with a
current source.
That said, I like the AN 8's, and I think this would be a good build with a
sealed enclosure. Keep in mind that you have to tweak the loading to
get it right, but the articles on this will give you some guidance.
of Lowther DX55's for BAF.
Alas, I had to realign the voice coil in the gap for one, and the fix did not stick
for more than a minute at a time, and I don't have the time for a new
re-cone job. I will be taking the SALs I showed last year, but not with a
current source.
That said, I like the AN 8's, and I think this would be a good build with a
sealed enclosure. Keep in mind that you have to tweak the loading to
get it right, but the articles on this will give you some guidance.
Thank you for reply Mr. Pass.
Attached is a copy of my proposed BOM to be ordered from Digi-Key. I would love to hear comments and suggestions on these choices.
Attached is a copy of my proposed BOM to be ordered from Digi-Key. I would love to hear comments and suggestions on these choices.
You mica insulators are for TO-220 devices. You need insulators for TO-247 (bigger).
I am not familiar with the F2 but in general most people prefer Dale resistors for the 1/4w types...although it's certainly not a big deal. Same thing for the trimmer pots...Bourns is probably better. They cost a little more. Again, not a huge deal. None of the parts you specified will make or break the amp. The 1uf and 10uf caps have an impact on the sound...there are so many different caps on the market and exotic audiophile caps that choosing one is probably a whole new discussion but generally Wima is a brand that you can get from digikey or mouser that is well regarded. More exotic choices will require buying from a different supplier...Again, none of this is a deal breaker.
I'd go with dale resistors, bourns pots and maybe wima caps. Then I'd spend the rest on good PSU caps.
I am not familiar with the F2 but in general most people prefer Dale resistors for the 1/4w types...although it's certainly not a big deal. Same thing for the trimmer pots...Bourns is probably better. They cost a little more. Again, not a huge deal. None of the parts you specified will make or break the amp. The 1uf and 10uf caps have an impact on the sound...there are so many different caps on the market and exotic audiophile caps that choosing one is probably a whole new discussion but generally Wima is a brand that you can get from digikey or mouser that is well regarded. More exotic choices will require buying from a different supplier...Again, none of this is a deal breaker.
I'd go with dale resistors, bourns pots and maybe wima caps. Then I'd spend the rest on good PSU caps.
Are these the boards you have?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/152785-f2-pcb-group-buy.html#post1939166
I had a quick look and did not see a spot for the LED. (I've built
using PD's F4 boards and he left them out there as well.)
One suggestion I would make is to measure the spacing for the
parts on the PCB and see if what you have in your BOM will fit.
PD's PCBs tend to be very compact and not all parts will fit
easily. For example, on the F4, I had to mount many of the
resistors standing up.
Cheers,
Dennis
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/152785-f2-pcb-group-buy.html#post1939166
I had a quick look and did not see a spot for the LED. (I've built
using PD's F4 boards and he left them out there as well.)
One suggestion I would make is to measure the spacing for the
parts on the PCB and see if what you have in your BOM will fit.
PD's PCBs tend to be very compact and not all parts will fit
easily. For example, on the F4, I had to mount many of the
resistors standing up.
Cheers,
Dennis
Hello Dennis,
Those are the boards that I have. You are right, I see no place for LED. Perhaps leads to a panel mounted LED could be run from somewhere on the boards.
Thanks,
Kent
Those are the boards that I have. You are right, I see no place for LED. Perhaps leads to a panel mounted LED could be run from somewhere on the boards.
Thanks,
Kent
Some questions come to mind. I will probably have a lot of questions before my F2 is completed.
Can I split the Peter Daniels power supply boards and build the F2 as monoblocks?
If built as 2 monoblocks what size toroid would be suitable for each side?
Would it be possible to power the F2 with an external 24V power supply in the same manner as the Amp Camp amp? I see 24V/5A power supplies available.
Can I split the Peter Daniels power supply boards and build the F2 as monoblocks?
If built as 2 monoblocks what size toroid would be suitable for each side?
Would it be possible to power the F2 with an external 24V power supply in the same manner as the Amp Camp amp? I see 24V/5A power supplies available.
-I'm not familiar with his pcbs , but from pictures above , it looks they're made for splitting
-based on my ancient notes , F2 is drawing around 75W/channel , so 18Vac/150VA Donut is minimum I would use per channel ; cap bank as prescribed
-yes ; 5A , as minimum
Hi Kent,
It looks like you have two 'positive rail' sections? If so, you can just carefully
split them for monoblocks.
As the Mighty ZM has mentioned, min about 150VA per channel. Antek 200VA
transformers are inexpensive and readily available in the US.
Cheers,
Dennis
It looks like you have two 'positive rail' sections? If so, you can just carefully
split them for monoblocks.
As the Mighty ZM has mentioned, min about 150VA per channel. Antek 200VA
transformers are inexpensive and readily available in the US.
Cheers,
Dennis
Would one 24V/5A DC power supply work for both channels of the F2 or would I need 2 of them to power 2 monoblocks?
If I use a DC power supply, I would assume that I could connect it to the F2 boards in a similar manner that I connected my 19V DC power supply to my B1 ?
If I use a DC power supply, I would assume that I could connect it to the F2 boards in a similar manner that I connected my 19V DC power supply to my B1 ?
Dennis,
you are right about lack of space on this board. Where will I find the tiny capacitors that it calls for.
If anyone has built An F2 from the Peter Daniels board, I would appreciate pictures of how it is stuffed and wired.
you are right about lack of space on this board. Where will I find the tiny capacitors that it calls for.
If anyone has built An F2 from the Peter Daniels board, I would appreciate pictures of how it is stuffed and wired.
Hi Kent,
Once you measure the pinout and spacing, you can try using the filtering facility
on digikey or mouser to see what parts are available. The lower voltage film parts
are often smaller so that is something you can look into.
Another possibility is to use a good electrolytic (say, Elna Silmic) in place of the
file cap if one is not available.
Dennis
Once you measure the pinout and spacing, you can try using the filtering facility
on digikey or mouser to see what parts are available. The lower voltage film parts
are often smaller so that is something you can look into.
Another possibility is to use a good electrolytic (say, Elna Silmic) in place of the
file cap if one is not available.
Dennis
The Elna Silmic 2 are used a lot in first watt projects so I would certain consider them,
especially if you cannot locate a suitable film cap.
Here's what Mr. Pass has said about the Elna:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/151392-best-electrolytic-capacitors.html#post1919931
especially if you cannot locate a suitable film cap.
Here's what Mr. Pass has said about the Elna:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/151392-best-electrolytic-capacitors.html#post1919931
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