I just bought a Philips CD710 and it works great. I opened it up though and I saw that both the raw supply caps have leaked. Just a little bit and it looks like I could easily replace them.
Will everything be alright after I've replaced them? I'm worried that maybe the leaky caps have done some damage I'm not aware of. Is that likely or should I not be worried?
Also, it's been a few years since I modded a CD player. I'm using this as a guide. The raw supply caps are 2200 and 3300 uF/16V. Should I replace them with the same capacitance or can I go higher?
Thanks.
Will everything be alright after I've replaced them? I'm worried that maybe the leaky caps have done some damage I'm not aware of. Is that likely or should I not be worried?
Also, it's been a few years since I modded a CD player. I'm using this as a guide. The raw supply caps are 2200 and 3300 uF/16V. Should I replace them with the same capacitance or can I go higher?
Thanks.
Are you sure they have really leaked?
90% of times people worries about that, they are actually seeing some goop added to the larger caps to minimize vibration.
Post a picture.
90% of times people worries about that, they are actually seeing some goop added to the larger caps to minimize vibration.
Post a picture.
I'd replace them if they have leaked, and clean up the mess with IPA or similar. The goop can corrode circuit board traces, but this will be obvious to the eye once you remove the cap.
I've thought about that but it looks like a leak (looks a little corroded as well), and in the picture in the guide I posted above there's no brown goop.
Here's some pics I took:
http://i.imgur.com/MqX7EVg.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/H3tDhM6.jpg
And this is from the guide - no goop:
http://lampizator.eu/lampizator/references/PhilipsCD710/monachium_etc 012.jpg
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That's positively the awful glue used to hold large things for wave soldering. You should absolutely scrape the glue completely off the board & from any exposed wire leads, as it gets corrosive. The caps look ok, although only the brown Nichicon can be counted on to be definitely good.
That's good to hear. It doesn't look like anything I've seen before. And why does my CD710 have glue and someone else's doesn't?
Your picture shows sloppily applied but unimportant goop , some kind of Neoprene contact cement (it even shows bubbles) , that's neither hot glue nor silicone which are also popular.
The silicone *can* attack metals, specially copper, because it's kept stable for storage adding liberal amounts of acetic acid, the strong vinegar smell you feel when you use it, and which it sheds while curing, but neoprene rubber, on the contrary, protects copper.
When it dries, it's chemically the same as old standard rubber cable covering, so no big deal.
As of catalog pictures, they always are "nice" 😉
But those adhesives (which are applied by hand after soldering, that's why they are often sloppy) do have an anti vibration function.
You worry about that?
Then the owners of these should commit suicide 😉 :
An X-Otic "boutique" guitar pedal:
or this U$50000 Dumble Guitar amplifier:
The silicone *can* attack metals, specially copper, because it's kept stable for storage adding liberal amounts of acetic acid, the strong vinegar smell you feel when you use it, and which it sheds while curing, but neoprene rubber, on the contrary, protects copper.
When it dries, it's chemically the same as old standard rubber cable covering, so no big deal.
As of catalog pictures, they always are "nice" 😉
But those adhesives (which are applied by hand after soldering, that's why they are often sloppy) do have an anti vibration function.
You worry about that?
Then the owners of these should commit suicide 😉 :
An X-Otic "boutique" guitar pedal:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
or this U$50000 Dumble Guitar amplifier:
Thanks, I'm gonna scrape off the glue but I'd like to reapply some adhesive. What can I use as adhesive?
Also I'm shopping for replacement parts to upgrade this player but I'm having some doubts which values to use. I'm thinking of replacing the raw power supply caps (2200 and 3300uF) with Panasonic FC 4700uF and 6800uF respectively (should I go even bigger?). The caps that are common to the DAC main power supply I will also replace with Panasonic FCs of the same value as the original ones. The guide I posted above only says to upgrade them, but I have no idea if they have to be the original values.
Vref cap will also be replaced with Panasonic FC 47uF/6V, as well as the OPAMP. I'll put in RCA jacks and add some bitumen felt as well. That's pretty much everything I can do it seems but I would love some suggestions of course!
Also I'm shopping for replacement parts to upgrade this player but I'm having some doubts which values to use. I'm thinking of replacing the raw power supply caps (2200 and 3300uF) with Panasonic FC 4700uF and 6800uF respectively (should I go even bigger?). The caps that are common to the DAC main power supply I will also replace with Panasonic FCs of the same value as the original ones. The guide I posted above only says to upgrade them, but I have no idea if they have to be the original values.
Vref cap will also be replaced with Panasonic FC 47uF/6V, as well as the OPAMP. I'll put in RCA jacks and add some bitumen felt as well. That's pretty much everything I can do it seems but I would love some suggestions of course!
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Don't use panasonic caps unless you want to keep needing to replace caps every five years.
The silcone & epoxy-type glues in those photos, while a nightmare for serviceability & of extremely questionable practical value, is not at all the same sort of glue as that so VERY commonly used by large manufacturers to hold parts in place for wave soldering, such as shown in the player in question. It's some sort of organic glue that starts out light tan in color, and ALWAYS darkens over time and eventually becomes both corrosive AND conductive when it gets to dark brown & into black in color. Happens very quickly when applied to or near a hot running part, like a regulator heatsink. It should always be removed completely or it will cause malfunction and/or physical damage. Unless you plan to mount the player in an airplane or other high-vibration environment, there is absolutely no need to replace it with anything.
The silcone & epoxy-type glues in those photos, while a nightmare for serviceability & of extremely questionable practical value, is not at all the same sort of glue as that so VERY commonly used by large manufacturers to hold parts in place for wave soldering, such as shown in the player in question. It's some sort of organic glue that starts out light tan in color, and ALWAYS darkens over time and eventually becomes both corrosive AND conductive when it gets to dark brown & into black in color. Happens very quickly when applied to or near a hot running part, like a regulator heatsink. It should always be removed completely or it will cause malfunction and/or physical damage. Unless you plan to mount the player in an airplane or other high-vibration environment, there is absolutely no need to replace it with anything.
That's strange, Panasonic FC caps are often recommended here for decently priced caps. What would you recommend? The place I'm looking to order know doesn't a very big range of caps, so I'll look elsewhere. Nichicon FW and Vishay BC038 caps are supposedly good?
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Did some more research and found that Panasonic FR caps have a much better endurance rating. Would that be a better alternative? They do have a lower ESR though...
Panasonic/Matsushita caps as a whole brand are of very poor long term reliability, as are Elna(Silmic, Cerafine not too bad, regular lines very bad, some disastrously bad) and Rubycon(BG line ok, rest of lines pretty bad). They get recommended because very few people around here and in the "upgrading" business have been doing high end audio service for 35+ years like I have, or even have any pro service experience at all. Also because they sound ok right away, whereas the better & infinitely more reliable Nichicon line takes 100-200 hours to start getting toward best sound. But every lytic, regardless of brand, takes at least 500-600 hours to get even close to completely broken in. Nippon Chemicon take second place in terms of sound & long term reliability.
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