The Kreg does the same job as the jig they used 'back then'.
re: Joining plywood speaker boxes with pocket screws..
I've taken apart a few 50s and 60s hifi consoles, and I can't recall seeing two plywood panels joined with pocket screws. Usually the screw was going into a solid wood element, or at the very least, into veneered lumber core stock.
Garage sales! Pawn Shops! Try the internet for collets, as I don't know who actually made the router I can't suggest where to go. If you have a Black & Decker service center they sell used tools!
My first table saw was an adding machine base with a Sears arbor for the blade, an old washing machine motor provided the power and of course a regular light switch. A fence could be nailed to the top when useful.
Worn saw bearings are actually found in many table saws. It shows up as the blade seems to move relative to the fence when it is raised or lowered.
I have made various gifts using nothing but a razor knife and small hand saw! Dovetails are surprisingly easy by hand.
My jointer came out of the garbage!
If you are working plywood, a circular saw and router are the best basic tools. I rarely use a circular saw so mine is a $29.00 version. My table saw is around $24K! My rule is that I have to spend more on wood than on the tools!
Today I just jointed and squared a piece of salvaged 6 x 6 to make a window sill. The piece of wood was first growth and probably started life around 1650. The wood was free, what does a 6' 6 x 6 of prime white oak go for these days?
Wow, thanks victoria guy. That Spanish method is quite clever. I think even I could do that. 🙂
Just checked sears parts direct and the collet for my 315-25070 router is no longer available. Nuts!!! it looked to be such a nice piece of equipment too. 🙁 Anyone know of a viable substitute part?
Just checked sears parts direct and the collet for my 315-25070 router is no longer available. Nuts!!! it looked to be such a nice piece of equipment too. 🙁 Anyone know of a viable substitute part?
Actually if you are using a plane it is useful to know which end of the board was sunny side up! Plane from sun to dirt for best results!
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What projects do you have in mind?
Having owned a 'bunch' of Sears routers from the 70s-80s, I'd advise buying something new unless you can get parts for your Sears routers very cheaply.
You can find good deals on 'name brand' tools from time to time.
A couple of weeks ago, my next-door neighbour bought a Ryobi 'portable' 10" table saw with fence, carbide blade, and stand, new, for $89. At those prices it hardly pays to mess with improvised tools. It's a pity, in a way, since that stuff can be fun...but usually dangerous.
There are often very good deals (free to $50) on older 8" and 9" cast iron table saws, which were the standard in the 40s and 50s. Great for compact spaces and smaller work, and plenty of blade for cutting plywood.
Look around online and try to get a matching price locally. Also, some used tools can be a good deal, if 'driven by a little old lady on weekends'.
(My rule:'Never buy anything that spins from Harbor Freight/Princess Auto')
😀
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????????
Do you mean which end of the board was 'up' or 'down' when the tree was growing?
Most commercial domestic lumber has so much runout that I usually have to give a pass with the plane, or split a sliver from the edge, to know which way the grain is 'running'.
Anyway, back to plywood and MDF!
Yuk...
Try letting it sit around for a couple of years first, then rough cut and plane to dimension, the old way! With commercial grown lumber the grain is wide and if it isn't straight the wood will warp when ripped!
I have pieces I picked up 20+ years ago still waiting for the right project.
As to MDF just used some to make a jig!
Visit a Black & Decker service center on a slow morning and they mighe be able to fit you up!
You might be able to find a 'Parts' unit on eBay and persuade the seller to just ship the collet and nut......
Working Craftsman routers sell for 'not very much'...shipping is the problem, I suppose.
The current project is a small scale stereo console. It will be 1 by solid wood. I can see where plywood might be difficult with the pocket screws. I was planning on butt joints for most of the box and then using decorative trim molding to provide a facade of miter joints on the front. May use plywood or MDF for some interior enclosure walls and ports. It seems like the most difficult parts will be getting everything square and true.
Future projects would include loudspeaker systems (hi-fi, MI and PA) and amplifier bases.
Future projects would include loudspeaker systems (hi-fi, MI and PA) and amplifier bases.
Consider using good-quality veneered plywood for some of the panels- much easier than trying to glue up (and surface) large solid-wood panels, and a lot of wood expansion 'issues' are avoided if you use plywood.
You can put solid wood on the plywood as edging (like the consoles of olden days), or use a solid wood 'frame' with plywood panels.
Or use a traditional method like frame-and-panel....whatever you do, you don't want your project to crack the first time you have a spell of extra-dry weather in the house.
When the tool selection is limited, you need to make the design fit the tools. Doing it 'the other way round' can get expensive aka Norm Abrams syndrome (every project requires $25k worth of tools..).
Of course, it is one way to accumulate tools...😀
One idea would be to buy a pre-fab cabinet and modify for stereo use. (Ikea?)
Or build something in solid plywood (or even MDF- though heavy) and veneer it with good-looking veneer. Speaker box would be good practice for the console.
Lots of possibilities...
What's your shop space? Size? climate?
Double stall semi-heated garage full of partially disassembled pianos, organs and stereo consoles. 🙂 Wanted to avoid the headaches of veneering if possible. Plywood seemed like it would be a b&%^h to work with and is ungainly and ungodly expensive in usable void free form and hard to source it seems. And of course even good quality plywood would require either veneering or miter joints all around to avoid the ugly ends.
I would consider ply if there are reasonable work arounds for the problems. Because of the weight issues (this is a semi portable application) I was thinking 1x poplar boards finished with teak oil. I thought of lining the speaker enclosures with OSB to help damp resonances.
Design would be fairly traditional with front firing 4" FR on each side and side firing 8" woofs crossed at 100 to 150Hz. Unlike traditional consoles the speakers would be enclosed. SE KT-88 power amp and 12AY7/12AU7 preamp will be mounted in the center with as much isolation as possible. I plan for main controls on the front surface angled up slightly with a small sliding or hinged section in the top for the iPod dock and storage.
Target dimensions are under 3' wide and around 2' high and 18" deep. Will have feet to lift it off of the ground by a few inches with ventilation holes above and below the amp chassis.
I would consider ply if there are reasonable work arounds for the problems. Because of the weight issues (this is a semi portable application) I was thinking 1x poplar boards finished with teak oil. I thought of lining the speaker enclosures with OSB to help damp resonances.
Design would be fairly traditional with front firing 4" FR on each side and side firing 8" woofs crossed at 100 to 150Hz. Unlike traditional consoles the speakers would be enclosed. SE KT-88 power amp and 12AY7/12AU7 preamp will be mounted in the center with as much isolation as possible. I plan for main controls on the front surface angled up slightly with a small sliding or hinged section in the top for the iPod dock and storage.
Target dimensions are under 3' wide and around 2' high and 18" deep. Will have feet to lift it off of the ground by a few inches with ventilation holes above and below the amp chassis.
Well, if you can get solid wood at a decent price and can figure out how to surface the glued up panels (which really is not that much work if you have a decent hand plane, and a solid bench), perhaps plywood is not a good option.
I'm assuming that you have a source for S4S poplar?
Some cabinetmaking shops will run panels through their thickness sander for a price, especially if they are not very busy (eg 'down' economy).
Work out your design, and figure out how you are going to do each step with the tools you have. It's not rocket science.
Letting the top/bottom 'overhang' can hide a lot of small errors that would show up in a flush joint, BTW.
Sounds like an interesting project!
I'm assuming that you have a source for S4S poplar?
Some cabinetmaking shops will run panels through their thickness sander for a price, especially if they are not very busy (eg 'down' economy).
Work out your design, and figure out how you are going to do each step with the tools you have. It's not rocket science.
Letting the top/bottom 'overhang' can hide a lot of small errors that would show up in a flush joint, BTW.
Sounds like an interesting project!
They have 1x poplar (as well as hardwoods) at both Menards and Lowes. Sorry I don't know the term S4S. Can you explain?
Thought about using the "table saw" to cut dados in the side panels to make lining up the bottom piece and top braces. Other interior parts could be located using 1x1 battens.
Thought about using the "table saw" to cut dados in the side panels to make lining up the bottom piece and top braces. Other interior parts could be located using 1x1 battens.
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I believe it indicates that all 4 sides have been planed smooth.
Best Regards,
TerryO
TerryO is right.
S4S (Surfaced 4 sides)
Sometimes you will see S2S where the flat faces are planed but the edges are rough sawn.
I always buy solid lumber rough, but I have some small-ish jointing and thickness planing tools here.
Cutting dadoes in a panel with a table saw safely probably requires more tooling than you have.
Dado cutters and a sliding crosscut cradle/carriage would be the minimum. I avoid that operation.
In fact, I avoid dadoes completely, if possible! (hate 'em).
Splines, cleats, biscuits are all directions I'd take before dadoes.
If you absolutely must make a dado, I'd advise using a router and a guide board. Getting the dado width to match the board thickness can be tricky. A half-dado can be easier to 'adjust' but requires an extra operation.
All IMO, of course. (I'm lazy and still have all my fingers at 64yo, so consider my comments in that light.😀)
Another wacky idea that just occurred to me is trying to use one of the console carcasses that I have as a donor and figuring out a way to "cut it down" to the size I need. Will have to ruminate on that a bit.
Victoria Guy, I do take your thoughts quite seriously. I know well enough that one's greatest asset is often the willingness to learn from those who have been there. 🙂
Victoria Guy, I do take your thoughts quite seriously. I know well enough that one's greatest asset is often the willingness to learn from those who have been there. 🙂
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