Project update: almost done...
Ok, long break between posts, but i haven't forgotten 🙂
I received the parts from YWH, including a replacement ballast + matching 150W lamp.
I tested the ballast + lamp with the bridge recifier supplied by YWH, then took a feed from the original balast's 340VDC and spliced the HV cabling from the new ballast to the original lamp enclosure connectors.
The main power switch now fires up the original power supply (minus the igniter) and the new ballast, which drives the lamp directly.
I've cemented the new lamp into the original reflector using a product called "Hydrocal 150" from a hobby/craft store in Melbourne.
This stuff is mixed 100/40 powder/water ratio, yeilding a pourable paste. I've centered the lamp in the reflector and poured the paste in around the neck of the lamp. Once it has set, i've simply chipped the excess material off with a knife (carefully). Looks professional.
Everything tested and works as expected. Next step is to get a hobby box to house the new ballast and attach it externally to the main projector casing.
I'll post some pictures once it is all up and running...
Chainik.
Ok, long break between posts, but i haven't forgotten 🙂
I received the parts from YWH, including a replacement ballast + matching 150W lamp.
I tested the ballast + lamp with the bridge recifier supplied by YWH, then took a feed from the original balast's 340VDC and spliced the HV cabling from the new ballast to the original lamp enclosure connectors.
The main power switch now fires up the original power supply (minus the igniter) and the new ballast, which drives the lamp directly.
I've cemented the new lamp into the original reflector using a product called "Hydrocal 150" from a hobby/craft store in Melbourne.
This stuff is mixed 100/40 powder/water ratio, yeilding a pourable paste. I've centered the lamp in the reflector and poured the paste in around the neck of the lamp. Once it has set, i've simply chipped the excess material off with a knife (carefully). Looks professional.
Everything tested and works as expected. Next step is to get a hobby box to house the new ballast and attach it externally to the main projector casing.
I'll post some pictures once it is all up and running...
Chainik.
Hi !
the ballast work in a movement of air when it in the projector. it need wind. so you have to install a new fans for the ballast. not too high, the fans of intel 586 CPU is OK! contact the 12v power of original fans in projetor, that is OK,
the ballast work in a movement of air when it in the projector. it need wind. so you have to install a new fans for the ballast. not too high, the fans of intel 586 CPU is OK! contact the 12v power of original fans in projetor, that is OK,
Yes, I put a temporary fan on top of the ballast, which keeps it cool.
Once i find a suitable enclosure for it, i'll take a snap as at the moment it looks ugly screwed to the top casing of the projector.
Once i find a suitable enclosure for it, i'll take a snap as at the moment it looks ugly screwed to the top casing of the projector.
I couldn't work out how to take a picture of the screen output, it always came out too dark. But the picture is bright enough even with some background room lighting. Of course, in total darkness it looks much better, like being in a cinema.
I've taken the long promised snaps of the unit with extenral ballast. I still haven't found a case to put over the ballast, although i will at some point still do that. Or i might even transfer the ballast/bulb into a newer unit - this projector is a single LCD with SVIDEO output only, so the output quality is questionable for anything over standard analogue TV resolution.
I've taken the long promised snaps of the unit with extenral ballast. I still haven't found a case to put over the ballast, although i will at some point still do that. Or i might even transfer the ballast/bulb into a newer unit - this projector is a single LCD with SVIDEO output only, so the output quality is questionable for anything over standard analogue TV resolution.
Attachments
I believe I have, though i've never seen the original lamp working so i have nothing to compare it with.
Now a long awaited bump, all the way out of the Netherlands 😛. I've got the same Sharp XV-C20E. I've fitted it with an Krypton lightbulb, which generates less heat, more light (900lumen!) and fits perfectly into the lightbulb chamber 🙂
But now I've got a problem with the lamp detector... I've disconnected the vertical PCB on the ballast, removed the PCB, but every time it shuts itself off after 5 seconds :S
Could you describe the lamp detection bypass more specifically (with a bunch of pictures would be nice 🙂 ) because you've mentioned that you "have removed all of the lamp detection parts" (which is more that the mini cable and the PCB on the ballast i presume?)
But now I've got a problem with the lamp detector... I've disconnected the vertical PCB on the ballast, removed the PCB, but every time it shuts itself off after 5 seconds :S
Could you describe the lamp detection bypass more specifically (with a bunch of pictures would be nice 🙂 ) because you've mentioned that you "have removed all of the lamp detection parts" (which is more that the mini cable and the PCB on the ballast i presume?)
To be honest, all I had to do is remove the cable to make it work. If it shutting off after X mins, then there maybe something else that si causing it - maybe the temperature switch on the side of the lamp housing...
I can't imagine that it would be the temperature of the lamp, because I've fitted the beamer with an high efficiency krypton lamp (which I said) which doesn't generate a lot of heat.
But maybe you're right, I'll try to start it without the temperature sensor this friday 🙂
But maybe you're right, I'll try to start it without the temperature sensor this friday 🙂
Today I unplugged the vertical lamp detection board from the ballast and tried to boot the system. Then it doesn't make an high voltage noise, so I guess that that did bypass the lamp detection, but it still powers down.
Then I disconnected the lamp temp sensor. Now it doesn't want to boot, so I've put the temp sensor as far away from the lamp as posible (outside of the casing) to prevent it from heating... And it still powers down 🙁
Chaink, do you have a next tip for me to try, which prevents the projector from powering down?
Then I disconnected the lamp temp sensor. Now it doesn't want to boot, so I've put the temp sensor as far away from the lamp as posible (outside of the casing) to prevent it from heating... And it still powers down 🙁
Chaink, do you have a next tip for me to try, which prevents the projector from powering down?
I would recommend throwing the thing in the bin and get something a little more modern. Even if you can get it going, it's not worth it because the resolution is absolutely appauling. It's obsolete technology, which is worth more in spare parts.
Ciao!
Ciao!
I know, thats why I bought it 😛 It's good enough for students and the only problem that I've got is that it powers down after 10 seconds. And I don't know what to do next 😕
- Status
- Not open for further replies.