Well, what's the complaint?
The small difference in voltage across a woofer isn't a problem.
The amp produces audio and the static is gone.
The small difference in voltage across a woofer isn't a problem.
The amp produces audio and the static is gone.
So the meter probing the pos and neg speaker terminals and it saying there is 2~3v DC isn't a issue?
So you're saying form the best of what I've described there shouldn't be a issue running the amp how it sits?
I'll put it back together and run it. See what happens.
It is acceptable for it to push the speaker out a little bit while the amp is running?
The amp is essentially working. The DC offset isn't perfect but the amp has no way to correct. The problem may be something simple but could be difficult to find.
There is no way possible for 3v to damage a woofer capable of taking the full power of this amp. If there are no other issues, I'd use the amp as is.
There is no way possible for 3v to damage a woofer capable of taking the full power of this amp. If there are no other issues, I'd use the amp as is.
Cheap amp design. The power supplies and the output stage are not synchronized and therefore produce a signal that's the difference between them. It's not an issue for subwoofer amps because the subwoofer can't reproduce high frequencies well and in the trunk, the little that they can produce isn't audible.
Transformer. I turned the amp upside down and powered it up. Started knocking around with a handle of a screwdriver. The speaker kinda popped and I flipped it over looked around and didn't see anything. Turned it back over and checked again knocking again and same thing. Looked a little closer at the back side and boom noticed one. Then after fixing the one I tested again and same results then I found the second one.
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When you have something like this on a transformer or inductor, there is commonly arcing which will cause oxidation.
To get a reliable connection, you have to pull the leads, add new solder then desolder completely.
You have to scrape the leads to get to shiny copper and then resolder.
If the hole is significantly larger than it needs to be, you sometimes have to make one or two turns around the lead with smaller wire to fill the air gap before soldering.
To get a reliable connection, you have to pull the leads, add new solder then desolder completely.
You have to scrape the leads to get to shiny copper and then resolder.
If the hole is significantly larger than it needs to be, you sometimes have to make one or two turns around the lead with smaller wire to fill the air gap before soldering.